swrbansheeboy

so i've been waiting for a reply, why did you want a pic if you didnt have anything to say?

that'd do it...

the end of the spring on the kick starter goes into a c shaped groove in the case thats at about the 10 o-clock position from the kick starter shaft. to adjust your clutch you need to loosten the set nut and turn the philips head screw in or out untill the arrow on your clutch arm lines up with the arrow on the top of your case. then adjust your clutch lever so it has about 1/16 - 1/8 play in it at the perch...if you dont already have a clymer manual it explains how to adjust it in there...

so are the fmf's in your sig the new pipes you installed? i'm assuming the only thing you messed with in your carb's is the mains, does your petcock have a good rate of fuel flowing from it? i would think that with 280's it would still start up even if it was lean.... did you happen to unplug the choke tube? it's a piece of tubing that connects both carbs and will create a vacume leak if unplugged. it will make your bike very hard to start and will cause the bike to heat up because it sucks air...check to see if you have a tube connecting 2 port's on the inside of your carbs about 3 inches long...

choke tube will usualy make the bike idle high, i'd check the carb slides as was mentioned. if there in backward (cutaways forward instead of to the rear of the carb) the bike will not want to start or run at idle but will run like it should once you get on it...i've done it before, strip both carbs down on the bench and dont pay attention when re-assembling them. the slides drop right in and all your payng attention to is the slots lining up on the tab's then you goto fire the bike up...suck's but it happens when your rushing to get it back together....

my experiance is that flipping the rear wheels get's you nothing and flipping the fronts will get you more width but you have to take a grinder to your callipers to keep the valve stems from hitting them. i did it on both of our shee's and love the extra width but you have to pull the front wheels off to air the tires up. i would suggest if your going to flip your fronts take them to a tire shop and have them move the valve stems to the inside ( outside after you flip) and block off the old holes so you can air up the tires without taking them off...f-ed with that for about 4 years untill i finaly got off my ass to fix it...you could always just get offset rims so there right to begin with...

can you post some pics of your radiator and tank shrouds?

i have lonestar d's on one of our bikes and those are not there d's. i have seen those arms before but i can't for the life of me remember who makes them...and my d's had brass bushings in them when i got the bike and i never measured the od on them while i had them out. i do know they use the same stock sleaves...

stock style j-arm bushings are the same as stock a-arm bushings so if they dont fit your aftermarket arms then i couldnt tell you here to start looking unless you know who made your arms....

i would suggest something like this.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-Bans...sspagenameZWDVW

kinda depends on if your doing all the work yourself or having a shop do it. if your going to do new pistons then cracking the case to inspect eveything is but a tube of yamabond and a set of seals away....if your idler gear is floping around i would inspect the end of the tranny shaft it goes on cause they have a bad habbit of having the end that the snap ring and washer lock on chip off so there isnt enough material there to hold the snap ring on. if it were me i'd take the time to inspect the bottom end and put new seals in it while i was there that way you know it's all new...

i'll second that. must be in your plug caps or wires...

anything can be done if you have the knowhow... how well do you feel around a set of porting tools? i would say if your pretty confident with a port tool and know what to and not to grind on then go for it. yes the cub's can use a little cleaning up but unless your familiar with the process then i'd let someone who know how do it for you. money well spent imo...

i see this so often, guy's breking something then scrambling to get it fixed by "the next ride" and end up going with something less than what they originaly had in mind. it may sound un-thinkable but sometimes it's just better to leave the bike home and go down to party then come back and fix it the way you wanna instead of pulling your hair out to get it fixed in the nick of time just to get there in time. sometimes slow and easy wins the race in the long run...i just found out the end of one of my tranny shafts is fu-bar'ed in my bike and i could probably get it stripped down and back up in a day and $150 but theres some other crap wanna do while it's down so i'm just gonna sit it out for a trip or two and get it done right instead of rushing through it just to kick myself for half assing it just to get it running right now...

if you've got money falling out your ass then get some high zoot plugs but i've never ran anything but ngk br8es plugs. there cheep and i've ran them for up to 3 years before with no problems...plus there cheep!

i'm sure you can get them to work but personaly i would get a set of 28's, they will be easier to tune and have better response with a stock set of cylinders imo...

heres where i get mine, one of the cheepest places i've found and have had no problems with the 3 bikes i've used them on so far.... http://stores.ebay.com/ATV-Dirtbike-Bearin...2QQftidZ2QQtZkm

it's kinda hard to figure out why a seal took a shit except if theres grooves on the end of the crank. sounds like thats your problem but you could always do a leak down test first just to confirm thats the problem before you strip everything apart. i'd invest in a complete set of seals since your in there anyway. plus it's a good oppertunity to inspect your shift forks and gears and tranny shafts for wear while your in here...

the 2 stroke equivelant of valves. there a one way valve that allows air and fuel to pass through them on the intake stroke of the engine but seal to keep it from going back through the carbs on the compression stroke...

we have an ax-caliber on one of our bikes and the chrome rusted out about the second ride. no problems strength wise but the finish sucks ass... my buddy has a g-force on his built cub and no problems yet plus his finish has held up better than the lonestar....

thats a killer pic of boxcar...

those are definatly not stock banshee cages. stock cages have 2 holes just like your new reeds and stoppers. as to what cages you have, i noticed that you said that you and your dad replaced the cages. where did you guys get the cages? and if you got them from someone else do they know where they came from? the only thing i can think of would be that they are from the rdz350 street bike motor that was the engine they modled the banshee off of but i have no first had knowledge of these motors so it's just a guess. with most aftermarket reeds you end up replacing the stoppers with thin flat bars like the ones you posted to keep the screws from grinding into the reed's. just some food for thought, could it be that you had an air leak at one of your reed cage gaskets and when you swapped them you got rid of the air leak? just thinking to myself on that one....if the bike seems to be running good with those cages i'd just keep running them without the stops cause you usualy chuck the stops when you replace your reeds anyway. the only real bitch is that you need to figure out what there off of so you can get parts later on down the road. i'd just make sure your jetting is right because they look like they have bigger openings than stock so they can flow more air...

and the "magic" no port work 350 with one of my buddies riding since his bike blew up...

nothing special, just a lil 350... :shrug:

i'm the worst at this but i think it's 8 and 18 ft lbs. my book is at the shop...check this out...pg 144 http://www.sandwizards.com/Service_Manuals/Banshee.pdf tighten 9-16 to 3.6 ft lbs tighten 1-8 to 7.2 ft lbs tighten 1-8 to 18 ft lbs tighten 9-16 to 7.2 ft lbs so basicly the top bolts(10 millimeter) end up being 7.2 and the bottom bolts(12 millemeter) end up being 18...