tedd1

Can't tell if it's big bore but it looks like a stroker dome. Looks like a pretty deep recess. Is this in your 4 mill?

As already stated, it should be one of the forst mods done. However, with your current mods, I would not tear it apart just to redo the crank. If you go back into the motor, have it done then.

Start with the simple stuff. Choke tube between carbs. Slides in correctly. Bowls on the correct carb. What was the jet someone told you was missing?

Who is putting it on? They gonna run the lights? I didn't go last year when I heard Dan wasn't doing it anymore. I might go back if I could get some good info.

You will have a blue wire that runs from the switch on the bars all the way back to the tail light.

Are there any letters or numbers on either one?

I have one on an older chassis, it is HEAVY!

Manual Clymers is better....

You are good to go!

Read THIS You got a good volt/ohm meter? You got a bud that will let you swap parts?

CALL A SITE SPONSOR!!! You can get it done for half of that, maybe less, even with shipping. I don't know how we could be any clearer.

Yellow is high beam. Green is low beam. Black is ground. I wouldn't hook them together, you only need one... and tape the one you don't use so it wont short out...

Read >THIS< and do it your self.

Honda, Yamaha (Banshee,660, and older YFZ 450s) carriers are 87mm. Late model YFZs and Suzuki 450s, Yam 700s are 90mm carriers. CanAm, KTM, Polaris, DS are 95mm. I believe the YFZs went to the 90mm about '05 or '06? Most of the 87mm carriers accept 35mm axles. Obviously, they can be had for 40mm axles. The 90mm and 95mm carriers usually run 40mm axles. Look >HERE<

Look where your cables go into the TORS. There should be adjusters there.

Check that the overflow from the rad connects to the bottom of the res. There are marks on the res, keep it about half full. I don't run it. If you take it off, you will have to pull the rad cover to check coolant level.

Any up & down will not work. A little side to side is OK. Stock bore is 64 mm. Cylinders wear like this ( ). If they are not straight, your pistons wont last long. Pick a site sponsor and call them. Call two or three. I would find one I liked and send them my cylinders and crank for inspection and repair. I think you will surprised at the prices you are quoted. I guarantee you will save money in the long run.

Did you check the rods for play?

x2, 19cc domes seem small for blaster pistons?

There is a very good chance a crank seal has let go if it sat that long. Do a leak down to be sure what it going on. If there are holes drilled and no idle screws installed, it will suck dirt through those holes. Not good for your motor or your carbs. Also, are the TORS tops removed? If they are and it is idling, the slides are hanging on the cables which is not good for cable life and can be dangerous.

Carrier Best deal I know of...

Ya, I block the vent at the water pump as well. On the puking vent, my first guess would be crank seal(s). X2 on the leak down.

$50 last time I know of anyone doing it. Gets you a 2 or 3 pulls with A/F. Anything else is extra. Take a thumb drive with you or you may not get a record. His printer is nearly always down...

This is inside info coming from the guy that has had more time with a Serval on a dyno (and published the results in open forums) than anybody else that I know of. Maybe it's just me, but if I was gonna build one of these, I would consider very carefully what this guy has to say...