tedd1

I want to hear how you figured this out??

Yes

Does it run?

After 5 years, I would just replace them. Don't cheap out and risk sucking a reed through the motor.

18's are still too small...

No, there is nothing wrong with that much oil. However, if it was tuned/jetted for less oil ratio, adding oil will lean the fuel mixture out, increasing chances of detonation. +5 timing normally would be OK. Advancing timing will usually make it run better. But, more timing also increases chances of detonation. I stated before that 18cc domes are to small for pump gas, especially on a 4mil stroker. You should do a compression test to be sure. High compression and too low of octane fuel increase chances of detonation. Anytime you build a motor, you should do a compression test, check squish, and do a leak down test before running it. After all this and getting it running, do a plug chop or two until you are sure everything is good. If you buy a motor or bike already running, it would be wise to do the same thing. A little investment of time will save $$ in the long run.

That is correct!!

have you read thru >THIS<? You can check for voltage at the switch or regulator with the motor running.

Detonation... 18cc domes probably need race gas (as you were previously told). 18cc domes on a 4 mil is getting close to alky range. Did you ever run a compression test? 1 quart to 5 gal = 20:1, if it was jetted for less oil, it was lean on fuel as well. What was your ignition timing? +4 or more?

There are lots of 100+mph Banshees on CL, just sayin...

Ask Kevin next time you talk to him. He can fix you up, too.

MetalTech

Thanks, I think they are a little too much. Buddy was looking for ~76 RO. I will send him this way, tho.

What is the roll out on the these? What do they weigh?

A broken skirt is usually caused by cylinders that look like ( )... And, NO, you can't see it. Take them and have them properly measured. It shouldn't cost much to for the piece of mind.

Almost a double post...

Cubs and Servals are both from the Cheetah family of cylinders from CP Industries, Inc.. A true Cheetah will have power valves but Cubs and Servals do not. Cheetahs also run bigger reeds. A Cub cylinder is set up and intended for mostly wide open throttle, high RPM horsepower. As in drag racing. I wont say it cant be duned or trail ridden. Lets just not go there now. A Serval Is set up and intended for a wider, more useable power band. They will make good horsepower from mid to high rpm. IMHO, I would say that if you intend to do anything with your bike besides wide open dunes, a Serval is the ticket.

Call Stellar. He should have the pieces you need already cut...

If the tail light works with the switch, you can probably splice into the blue wire where it is connected coming out of switch.

Coming out of the light switch, green is low beam, yellow is high beam, and, yes, blue should go back to tail light. From >HERE< Are the wires in your hand to aftermarket light(s)? I ask because black/yellow or yellow/black is TORS in stock wiring harness. There is also a yellow/black going to ground in your pic?

That's backwards. The mount on the swing arm goes up for linkage and down for no link. At least that's how mine is.

I am no hurry. Give me a shout when your ready.

I was thinking about making a for sale post. This came off bike we traded for. We rode the bike before swapping swinger for longer round carrier. Bearings seem fine on both ends. Brake side seal is bad. $175 Shipped

Piston Kit See if this will help...

Dura Blue See if there is anything there that helps.