tedd1

I really admire your work, and can't beat the price. But the red just does not work for me. Would you do something similar in another color combo? On my hood? Thanks, Rick

You would have to change domes or shave head to increase compression.

M&M Website

Serval for trails/dunes. They also do well in drags/hill shooting. Andy is the man for those, as well.

Far as I know, the only place to buy a Cheetah is from Trinity (unless, of course, you can find a used one). You might try Andy at M&M ATV, he has a bunch of them. Shoot him a PM, he will give you the straight scoop. The domes will fit your head but your head will not fit a power valve motor. PV cylinders also require different pipes. You could run a Cub or Serval @ 68mm bore. The cubs will run head, intakes, reeds and pipes off your stock cylinders.

Use the YFZ spindles and they will work OK. The angles are better on the ball joints. I used YFZ hubs as well. You will also need +2 Banshee tie rods. Stock YFZ rods are too short. They will reach but not enough threads for me. I didn't like them and took them off because they were too wide. A real hassle in the trailer or back of the PU. Look >HERE< or >HERE<

Great seller! Shipped quick.

We just went through this...HERE

Me too...

Ask Kevin, it's his motor. He can tell you what works best...

When we say "a colder plug" we are referring to the heat range the plug was designed for. Fuel type, chamber shape, squish, and more all play a role in dictating what heat range plug is to be used. From >HERE< Heat range The term spark plug heat range refers to the speed with which the plug can transfer heat from the combustion chamber to the engine head. Whether the plug is to be installed in a boat, lawnmower or racecar, it has been found the optimum combustion chamber temperature for gasoline engines is between 500°C–850°C. When it is within that range it is cool enough to avoid pre-ignition and plug tip overheating (which can cause engine damage), while still hot enough to burn off combustion deposits which cause fouling. The spark plug can help maintain the optimum combustion chamber temperature. The primary method used to do this is by altering the internal length of the core nose, in addition, the alloy compositions in the electrodes can be changed. This means you may not be able to visually tell a difference between heat ranges. When a spark plug is referred to as a “cold plug”, it is one that transfers heat rapidly from the firing tip into the engine head, which keeps the firing tip cooler. A “hot plug” has a much slower rate of heat transfer, which keeps the firing tip hotter. An unaltered engine will run within the optimum operating range straight from the manufacturer, but if you make modifications such as a turbo, supercharger, increase compression, timing changes, use of alternate fuels, or sustained use of nitrous oxide, these can alter the plug tip temperature and may necessitate a colder plug. A rule of thumb is, one heat range colder per modification or one heat range colder for every 75–100hp you increase. In identical spark plug types, the difference from one full heat range to the next is the ability to remove 70°C to 100°C from the combustion chamber. The heat range numbers used by spark plug manufacturers are not universal, by that we mean, a 10 heat range in Champion is not the same as a 10 heat range in NGK nor the same in Autolite. Some manufacturers numbering systems are opposite the other, for some manufacturers (Champion, Autolite, Splitfire and Bosch), the higher the number, the hotter the plug. For othe manufacturers (NGK and Denso), the higher the number, the colder the plug. Do not make spark plug changes at the same time as another engine modification such as injection, carburetion or timing changes as in the event of poor results, it can lead to misleading and inaccurate conclusions (an exception would be when the alternate plugs came as part of a single pre-calibrated upgrade kit). When making spark plug heat range changes, it is better to err on the side of too cold a plug. The worst thing that can happen from too cold a plug is a fouled spark plug, too hot a spark plug can cause severe engine damage It is generally accepted that, when you change to alky, you go to a colder range plug.

Stock Banshee harness: Yellow/Red is 12 volts into switch from regulator Blue goes back to tail light from switch (this wire would be "hot" any time light switch is on) Green goes out to low beam from switch Yellow goes out to high beam from switch

110 kph = 68.3508 mph = believable...

Find a wiring diagram for the bike your new switch came off of. Or, get an ohm meter and start switching switches...

Reed Gaskets

Jeff Wendorff 1 (785) 364-5325

How far are you racing? Why do you need to do 100mph?

Clutch

Gearing Calculator You can try but I don't think you will be able to pull that kind of gear.

Clutch

Under and in front of the gas tank, on the left side, a small black box, unplug it, if TORS is the problem, this should fix it.

Go >HERE< and open a free account. Then you can link to your pics from here.

Call Tim @ Stellar. He does some awesome stock frame conversions. You will be surprised with the cost, as well.

55 here, as well.