rubberneck

I believe the 28s will fit on stock intakes, so if you have your stocker, you are set. If not im sure they are a dime a dozen around here. pretty sure you will need new pods.

I have seen black and i think it looks really nice. Look for posts by jayzx750 i think is his user name. It looks really nice IMHO There was a pic on here a while back with a white frame and i also thought that looked really nice.

I purchased some chrome stuff from him a couple of weeks ago. He shipped them out about a week or so later. I didn't tell him i was in any kind of hurry so i wasn't worried that they didn't come right away. they came nicely packed and shipped by mail. he will get with you im sure. I have seen a lot of his stuff sell on here. He's probably just busy.

Ok, so i was going through some stuff on a bike i picked up. Runs really strong. I was cleaning up some junk in the back of the bike and noticed that the connector where the CDI plugs into the harness was wrapped in tape. I assumed somebody had done the this for water proofing or whatever. Well when i got it unwrapped i was dissappointed to find that the connector had somehow been smashed. The plastic part of the connector on both the cdi and the harness where it plugs in are broken. the individual metal parts were still ok and had been wrapped with electrical tape, then the whole thing wrapped up. It works but is kind of ghetto, so i would like to replace it. Can you buy the connectors, or am i going to have to buy a harness and cdi? I dont really want to do that. the bike is a 95 so i think that is a one year connector anyway right? If anybody has a bad CDI I would buy it for the connector. Anyone got a junk harness that that connector is good. Let me know if i cant find anything i guess i will just rig it back up for now.

Hey, i never said anything about removal, I just said it will seal like a mofo. LOL It might take a little work, but im guessing you could " persuade" it off.

you have pm

I have a set of 20-10-10 10 paddle haulers and they work great for screwing around. the smaller flatter tire allows some sliding but they still hook up pretty good. I think you would be fine with 8-10 paddles. The 10 definitely is not too much though.

sweet, glad it worked, out. just for fyi, i have always been told .020" on the pickup gap. Thats where i set all of mine.

A price and some specifics on the motor might get you a little more traffic here

What would you let the rolling chassis go for. I realize no carrier now, but basically, the bike minus motor elect plumbing etc?

Fast can get you the 28pwks if that is what you want. I talked to him a while back about a set for my stock cylinder bike. Once im happy with my set up on my cub bike, im going to tear into the stocker and mod it. porting 28s cool head etc. I currently have t5's on it. trying to decide if i will keep em or change.

I have one of the armadillo skids on one of my bikes. it clears a 43 no problem on my bike. I do have an aftermarket arm, though, so the mounts may be a little different. it is beefy as hell, I dont really like the way it looks, but it is beefy.

I have the same tire and run them at about 3psi.

I havent used it on cases, so take this for what it is worth, but this shit is great. Its called the right stuff, and it is the same shit they use at the oem on a lot of differentials and trannies in place of gaskets. It comes in an aerosol can like a cheese wiz can. It seals everything i have used it on really really well. I wouldn't have any problems using it on cases, i just havent needed to. It is very pricey though, so you may as well use the threebond i suppose

Regardless of time, 2nd is 2nd and that is pretty cool in a crowd like that. Congrats man you should be proud.

Would you be interested in selling the sub-frame

holy shit isn't that the truth. Im amazed by some of the rigs i see out there. Probably cost more than a lot of houses.

Wow, that is a pretty classy thing to do right there.

Man thats bullshit. Those were some nice titties. Why is it that all these complainers seem to forget that you have the option to shut of avatars and sigs. Go to your controll panel. Shut the titties off if you dont like them, but leave the rest of us to drool in peace. I always check out posts by loco, theshee, bansheeman, and kaos just cause your sigs and avatars kick ass. sad day.

1/8 mile no you have me there. And that is why i didn't post my experience on the 1/8 mile. A post about me that would mean different? please explain. i dont know wtf you are getting at there. Yes I am very new to my cub, but i have ridden some big motors cheetahs, big stock cylinder bikes, so what ever. I said i am glad i bought MY billet bowls and PINGEL. I said they were highly recomended to me so i bought them. he asked if they were needed. i believe we all said they are recomended. You disagree. good for you. for me and just about everybody else here we all said the little extra cost they add is way cheaper than leaning it out and munching a motor. I ride dumont, glamis and sand mountain. BIG ASS hills. Olds hill is almost 1/4 mile long. I am happy i got the bowls sorry if that upsets you.

Yeah, that eliminates that problem doesn't it. LOL

If you are not wanting to sink a whole bunch of money into it at this point, before you tear it down anyfurther, do a leak down test. it should hold 6psi for 6min with 1psi per min loss being acceptable. This will give you an idea if the crank seals are ok. if it will pressure test, yank the top end off and bore it/ put some pistons in it. While you have the top off, you can check the rod side clearance to make sure the crank isn't separating. Cleanthe carbs get them adjusted/synched and enjoy the thing. If the bottom goes later fix it. This would be the quick way to do it. You can make your own pressure tester or buy them on ebay. do a search for the procedure.

this thread got funny. I am happy that i wasted my money on the billet bowls i supposedly dont need. just my .02

When you go to tap the hole, pack the tap with bearing grease. go in 1 turn and back out 1/2 turn and pull the tap out every couple of turns and clean away the grease. the grease will catch most of the metal shavings. the other thing you can do is get everything buttoned up and cap the outlet from the head off and have a buddy shoot compressed air in the inlet near the water pump (hoses removed) be carefull, you are not trying to pressurise the system, just keep the air flowing. This will blow the chips back out at you through the hole you are tapping. I use these methods when tapping exhaust manifolds for pyrometers on diesels. If the truck is cold, i use the grease method. Warm and the grease melts, so i let the truck run at a high idle and drill/tap the manifold. the pressure shoots the metal shavings back at you.

if nothing else the billet bowls look cool.