rubberneck

Pull the key switch off, and unplug it at the plug below the fuel tank. Clip the plug off from the main harness and solder the two wires together. These wires are black and red/black. Your key switch is now eliminated. Now remove the run/light dimmer switch from your handlebars. The plug that it plugs into has 5 or six wires if i remember. the yellow, green, blue, and yellow/red are all for the lights. if you dont run lights, just insulate these off. What you want is the ground (black) and the kill wire (black/white) Run one wire of your kill switch to the black, run the other wire from your switch to the black/white. You are done. Here is a link with a wiring harness and some FAQ's that will back me up. the thing to know is that the key switch wires must be connected (grounded) to run, whereas the on off (kill switch you are installing) must be open to run and closed (grounded) to kill. Hope this helps http://www.bansheehq.com/index.php?option=...2&Itemid=28 Scroll down to the end of the link and there is a modified wiring diagram that shows the wiring for the exact scenario you are wanting (assuming you arent running lights)

Holy crap man, did i read that right 1k per hole? Thats about double what the set cost to begin with. I would think you could ship it here and back and still be money waaay ahead, or just replace the set. Where you at? Im interested in this also. Before I bought my cub, i was talking with a friend who used to work for mercury marine, and he said they love the plated cylinders. He claimed better heat dissipation and great durability. Basically he said they will go for a long time as long as you dont hurt one of them from failure/ lean out etc. Im sure one of the pros around here will chime in and give a better answer.

He said he had the 795 series pistons. i belive those are the ones for the 115mm rods.

10mil stock cylinder motor. Get a 10mil crank get a stock head recut for the stroke, and you would have a nice sleeper motor. At least up untill you make a pass and kick some ass. Then the cat would be out of the bag

Yep, if you still have the tors, unplug the controll box, parking brake switch, throttle switch carb tops and give it a try. If it runs good then, rip all that shit off, get an idle screw kit and new carb tops and be done with it.

Do you still have the box. i believe my 4mil/115 rod box has the part number on it. I can look at it when i get home and compare part# to let you know if you have the wrong one. Sounds like you probably do based on your findings. I know they make the 4mil/110 rods as that is what a local builder wanted to build for me. i decided to go another route though

Just a little info for you. I first put works dual rates/rezzies on my bike and they worked better than stock. Ride was definitely nicer. I then upgraded to +2+1 arms. The A-arms made a huge difference in performance. The bike steers and corners so much better with the a-arms. The shocks made it ride nicer, but you really need both to get the full benefit.

Did you talk to kevin about porting the cylinders now and then putting a stroker in later on? Will he be able to report the cylinders for the stroker, or are you going to have to get new cylinders and have them ported for the 4mil? If that is the case, wait on the whole motor and port stroke it at one time. Just my .02

If you have a vice, just put a deep socket on the outboard side making sure that it is big enought to clear the stud and press them in with the vice. Quick and easy.

Poor thing, what a terrible problem to have. You must hate that. LOL :yes:

hmmm, with a coat of yamabond on there, i would think it should have sealed assuming everything was dirt/oil free and flat. You said it was clean, so that only leaves flat. I would be checking the deck with a straight edge.

perhaps those are TREX cylinders, not rotax?

Mostly the plastics, maybe a close up of the damaged areas. I also am interested in the stabilizer and grab bar if it is in good shape.

You got any pics of the parts? I have a black fullboar hood that i may be willing to work something out on. I will try to clean it up and get some pics up.

Yeah, I thought about that, but then i would have to cut the good end off the bikes harness. I can rig it back up the way they had it with tape and zip ties and get by. I was just kind of hoping that somebody might have a bad one sitting around that they might want to make a couple bucks for their time and help me out. If i decide to make a move, i may just get a later model harness and CDI and convert to the newer style. It would then match mine and my bros other bikes so that i could carry 1 spare cdi to cover all bikes. Anyway, if anybody happens to have a junker for a 95-96 let me know.

Hey, I have a perfectly good CDI for my 95 that the plug got smashed on. If anybody has a bad or suspect CDI sitting around with good plugs on it, I would buy it. I dont even care if you snip the wires and throw the plugs in an envelope and mail them to me. Let me know how much you want and i will cover shipping also obviously. A 95 or 96 unit will work. Thanks Phil

Same thing happend to me. Lost left rod bearing and rod broke. Happend so fast, by the time i heard it and go the bike shut off it was too late. Cant bitch though, from what i could tell it was the original bottom end. 13 years old.

Gearing definitely low. But something that hasn't been mentioned yet. Jetting. Did you rejet the bike when the pipes were installed? What air filter are you running? Do you still have the snorkel and lid on the air box? Is the bike in tune? carbs synched? What is your compression? Before you go spending money, lets establish what you have. DG pipes dont get a lot of press around here, but i would think if that bike is tuned properly with everything you have (except gearing) you should be spanking those bikes. I would def ditch the boost bottle because they can crack the boots and cause air leaks. Get a compression test and tell us what it is. Check the synch on the carbs and check your jetting. Get everything right and then start modding. Just my .02

Hey just fyi, i have had really good luck with purple locktite. It lubes the screws going in so they dont gaul yet it doesn't hold like a mofo for getting them off. Bigger than about 1/4 inch and i use blue or red depending on what im doing.

22-11-8 x 9 paddle SLS Tires exactly as he described. Thanks again

dave, sorry, i didn't include my zip in my pm to figure out cost of shipping. I suppose that would help :: 95366 let me know if that works for you

Haven't tried it on bike plastics myself, but i have heard the same thing. I have used the heat gun on a couple of interior panels i was modifying in my truck and it worked great. I say give it a go. Nothing to lose really. I would say be carfull and dont let the gun sit in one spot too long. If you have a good gun it could melt or blister them. Hopefully sombody will chime in who has done it and give some tips.

Dont tell him that, with the way his luck is running, he will probably break his foot. LOL Just about the time he gets the pig running right he wont be able to ride. :biggrin:

bummer, thats kind of what i thought. screw it, ill put it back the way it was for now. It worked fine so why mess with it on a beater right? NYUK, are there any differences besides the shape of the plug for the diff year cdi/harness. If i got a harness and cdi off a different year (that matched each other of course) would it work ok on my bike? Or are there other diff in the harnesses?

I agree the stock silver looks great, its just that it is... well stock. LOL its nice to see something different