eagle

I was looking to get a bunch of jets for both stock carbs and my 35mm Keihins. Where can I get the best deal on them and what will they cost? Are there aftermarket jets out there worth buying?

The method I used to derive the rough 4:1 ratio (which is not precise) is by comparing a top speed to rpm, and the tire size. If you know a stock on stock banshee does 78mph at 10K with 20 tires, you can determine the final axle ratio including all gear reductions at the crank, trans, and chain sprockets. Obviously I have a more accurate way of doing this but this is just to better understand the math. What I see is say 200ft/lb of force at the back axle/tire size in ft to determine moment force on roller. This works out to 200/(20/12) or 119.8lbs of force. What I am getting at is all these damn inertial dynos floating around testing power but without proper ratios in place, it is a GUESS! I saw this on another dyno console that said "standard calculation", asked the operator what it was, he said, "dunno but it works". Bottom like is how the hell can they be anywhere close to accurate?

The numbers represented above are just test figures but yes, simple physics applied will show indeed that 50lbs of torque going through a 4:1 ratio gear reduction, will produce 200lbs of torque but at a relative rpm. This does NOT however, indicate what will be represented on a dyno graph because those numbers are calculated. I would like to know the math behind this and if the final gear ratio is figured back in to determine a calculated torque value. Tell me how a 50hp tractor is able to pull a house down? Gear reduction as a torque multiplier.

We were discussing dynos the other day and it brought up some interesting questions. Hopefully there are some math guys here to help answer this. A bike engine puts out say 100HP and 50lbs of torque at the crank. Running on a chassis dyno, the final gear ratio would be 4:1 ( 4 crank revs to 1 tire rev). So we would multiply the torque by 4 at the rear wheel so 200ft/lbs at the rear tire. Here is one thing I do not understand, how much torque does the dyno roller "see" if the roller is 16in diameter and the tire is 20in? Did I miss a step? Do I just need to compare the tire diam to the roller diam? Also, when I see a dyno chart, it shows say 100HP and 50lbs of torque at the back tire, what does that mean and how is it calculated? I mean we are seeing far more than 50 lbs at eh back tire. Is this just somehow re rated just like the tire above? :shrug:

Not sure what I did but every reply to a post is now in a tree below the OP and I have to click each one. What did I do?

So how would you guys compare the clutch pull say in a drag race compared to a stock clutch pull? About the same, little stiffer? Loco, why are bikes with an override hard to shift? Does this have nothing to do with pulling the lever? Do they drag or something?

Def don't have a mechanical issue. Lockup cover, new cable, and worked fine without the lockup. Common sense says because of the centrifugal force applied at high rpms, it would be hard to pull the lever during shifts. The tool that sold him the kit said it should shift just like a stocker. As soon as the rpms drop, the clutch cable pulls just fine. He was just told it should work so was not sure if there is some adjustment to get the lever to pull nice for high rpm shifts. The bike is a 535 cheetah. Thanks guys

We threw a lockup on a friends bike today and when I rode it, you could hardly pull the clutch lever to shift it. Damn near impossible. Does it need adjusted or something? The guy that sold it to him said it would work just like the stocker but that is not what I experienced. Help.....

So nobody else can build a big bore kit except him? Come on now. Can you really compare a casted cylinder to a billet one? I have used a cylinder works jug before without issues. They are casted too though. Where are JSRs cylinders made?

I am wondering if anyone has access to a dealer pricing list for Cylinder Works cylinder kits? I think my dealer is trying to hose me a bit by trying to sell me a kit at "dealer cost" but will not let me see the sheet. I would also like to see their other products as well anyway. You can PM me if you like. Also, I was curious what pistons they use? Nobody seems to know, just wants to sell a kit.

Guess I have not visited either in a while. E2S would not come up and Planet sand wants my money to post. Any others out there?

I was curious if anyone knows what the higher temp o-rings in the coolheads are made from? The ones around the domes. We are O-ringing a race kart head and need to select the right compound. Anyone? I am leaning towards Viton but not real sure at this point.

Yeah, I realize nothing runs closed loop yet. I think the only one is the CBR sport bikes that I am aware of. I am just sick of tuning carbs and injection just has many more advantages like no lean out on extreme inclines and such. Just much easier to push a button than carry jets around. Guys, I am really just looking for a list of injected bikes. Not really a recommendation at this point. I just want to learn which are injected and what years so I can go try out a few. Because of the tight woods in the mountains, big torque is more important than anything. Just means the 450s may not be the best choice for my needs but I really want to compile a list at this point. Thanks

I am looking to buy a woods bike since my Banshee is not exactly tuned for it. I want injection on my next bike so hopefully I can adjust it easier when I go to the mountains to ride. I was wondering if there is a list of injected quads and when they went injeted? I notice the Suz 400 and 450, and the Yam 450R and 700R. I do not know when they went injected either. Trying to put this together so I can do some shopping. Will likely buy used. Thanks guys!

So- 65mm cub = 795s or 513s depending on rod length 68mm cub = 795s, 513s, or blasters depending on rod and head design. Cheetah is what?