rubberneck

Word, i talk on the damn phone all day long at work. Last thing i want to do is have to talk to anybody when i get home. Bump....

Yep, you will get good customer service before during and after the sale that way. I just happened to see the above link and figured i'd throw it out there. My vote is always for fast though. He has treated me right everytime i deal with him.

Umm, then do it. I dont think anybody was trying to be a dick.. You asked for opinions. you got them. if you dont agree prove them wrong. A couple of guys on here have conversions. Im pretty sure there are a couple of streetbike powered raptors around here. I think what the guys are trying to say is that it takes a lot to make a streetbike converision outrun a hot banshee. You will have one hard to overcome disadvantage and that is weight. Im certainly not a drag race expert or professional engine builder, but i have heard numbers for 4mil cubs on alky in the 100+hp range. And like you said in your title, woopty doo on a lil 4mil, there are lots bigger motors out there. You might make 125, but you will be heavy and more than likely get outrun. Your type of power will favor longer races, but on a short track the lighter bike will get you. If you want to do it because you have all the parts and the know how, do it. im sure it will be a fun project and i as well as many others would love to see it.

Have you had a chance to try any of the suggestions? What was the outcome. Let us know, we will try to walk you through it.

Yes, the stuff i used was black. Dont get the stuff that has the hot glue inside if you can avoid it. Bitch to get off and can make the finish look bumpy. Works killler.

Bump +1, i also need to order some stuff my coupon must have been the same one 4-30

A piece of fuel line will work just fine. I had to do this on one of my bikes. I secure it on both ends with some zip ties also.

Love the color. That thing would look sick with black plastics. Where did you get that led tail light?

On my 250r, i had some pretty nasty looking scratches. Instead of removing them, i covered them up. I got a hold of some really big heat shrink off ebay and pulled the wheel hubs off. put the heat shrink on and used a propane torch to shrink it down nice and tight. Start at the inner side and work your way out. Leave the shrink a little longer than you need and when you get it shrunk all the way out, trim off the excess, reinstall your hubs and you are done.

Sounds like it could be clutch. Is the oil in the trans all burned smelling and murky? If so most likely clutch. The fact that the arrows are off is another sign. As far as rebuild, the clutch that FAST racing sells is a good one. if your bike is not pumped up a lot you can run 3 stock springs with 3 of the HD ones in the kit to keep the lever a little softer. Ket a nice easy pull lever with a bearing in it and a good clutch cable (lube it very well) and you should be good to go.

Just noticed this, maybe you guys can work something out. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...c=94619&hl=

Who carries the magura line? Was the stainless replacement line a magura product or someone elses? Thanks for any info

Streetshee, I cant answer your question about the light issue, but i did find my supplemental wiring diagram for the later model bikes and it does state that the yellow/green wire on the CDI is in fact the wire for the parking brake interlock. If you have that wire grounded it is in park mode. You need to remove it from ground and insulate it off and all should be good as related to that problem.

Yeah man, chill. The deal is, from your post it is kind of hard to tell you exactly where to start. How about some specifics on the bike and what has been tried. What kind of mods are done, what jetting is in the carbs, how old is the motor? You said you replaced the carbs with what i am assuming was a known good set off of another bike. Did you synch them? How old are the plugs? Is the fuel fresh? What ratio premix are you running? Are you getting spark to both cylinders? Is one cylinder smoking more than the other? Are you losing oil out of the transmission by anychance? have you looked for air leaks in the motor? What is the compression? Give us some info to work with and we will help you troubleshoot it.

i have been really tempted to try one of these just for giggles. I dont see many guys running them, but im sure it has to do with the cost. it makes sense that the pull would be easier just for the simple fact of no friction from the cable running in a tube. Are there any maintenance related issues with these?

Yes, i have easy pulls on both my bikes and they are nice. I got the perch and lever with a bearing in it from FAST also. Give jeff a call and order them they are nice. Now i have to ask, because it makes a huge diff, but did you lube the cable really well. when i first put the fast clutch in my bros bike, i also installed a new cable at the same time. I grabbed the handle before i lubed it just to check the actuation, and I could barely pull the clutch in. Lubed it up really well and it was 10 times easier. Jeff sells the cable luber kits, and they are a really handy little tool to have. I give a good 5 second blast untill i see lube running out the other end of the cable. I do it after every weekend of riding. try it.

What color smoke? White, or blue. Is the oil level in the trans going down? If it is heavy blue smoke out the right side it could be a leaking crank seal. white smoke could be coolant. Maybe they f'd up when they put the head back on. Pressure test the colant system and do a leakdown test

Here you go http://www.bansheehq.com/index.php?option=...2&Itemid=28 question #58 answers everything you need to know. it says not to go through orange wire.

Did you try like i suggested and switch the plug wires from side to side to rule out bad coil/plug/cap etc? Try it first and let us know, then compression. simple 2 min check may save you a lot of headache.

Man, i dont know, its hard to tell from a pic, but it looks like there is some chamfer there. I mean, there isn't a ton on any of the cylinders i have sitting here. Do you have another machine shop that you can take it too and have them look at?

if you are wanting to keep things as cheap as possible, you can mod your stock stator plate to give you up to 5 degrees advance.

Man, thats bullshit, so other innocent customers shit gets fucked up because you are pissed. Thats brilliant. If the machine shop screwed up they screwed up. they should accept some responsibility. however,the builder should also double check all critical measurments during assembly and never rely on the person that did the machine work. At least i do. Just my .02

Will most likely be at pismo 6-6 and 6-7 hope to meet up with you

i believe that snop is right, the yellow green is the park brake wire. My 95 does not have this wire but the 2000 does. Red black is the factory key switch wire. Must be grounded in the run position, open in off postion. The black/white is the kill wire for the factory on off switch. Open to run, grounded to kill. You should have that insulated off if you arent running the kill switch

switch plug wires from side to side and see if problem changes sides. If it changes sides it is electrical if not to do a compression test with a reputable brand tester and report back those numbers.