rubberneck

Man, been a long time since i had a set of stockers, but i believe the front have a 3 inch backspace. I belive the rears are 9x9 stock and have a 4 inch backspace. Again been a long time since i had a set, so if you have some, just lay them on the ground with the front up towards you and measure from the ground to the mountiing surface. That is your backspace.

Snop, can you elaborate on this? I am interested in using a relay on my AC system. How do you wire it? Do you need a special relay for AC or will a normal relay work? thanks PHil

You want the 3+2 offset, the first number is the backspacing. In other words a 5 inch rim with a 3+2 would mean that if you measured from the back of the rim to the mounting surface it would measure 3 inches. I have 4+1s ITP bajas on my bike because I put +2 a-arms on and when i ride trails, it was too wide, so I got the 4+1 to bring the wheels back in an inch on each side. If you want it wide, get the 3+2 or if they make them 2+3. One thing that is nice about the 4+1 is that you get less steering feedback over the bumps and when you hit stuff. Just my .02 If you put them on a bike with stock a-arms, it is pretty narrow however. On the rear I have 9x9 bajas with the 3+6 offset. The front of the banshee bolt pattern is 4x156mm, and the rear bolt pattern is 4x115 (some of the older bikes 88-89 or around there i believe used a 4x156 rear patter same as the front) But most of the banshee/warrior/raptor/450 bikes use the 4x115mm pattern.

I assume that would be a ported 421 right? What about just cleaned up ports? Is 90 in the ballpark?

Im with ya jay. I remember when they closed pismo down. They used our fucking money to build the fence. Got kicked in the nuts twice and payed the envirofags to do it.

Yeah, I plan on leaving stock gearing and keeping the 21-12-8 8 paddle haulers for now to see how she acts. Hopefully we will just keep her spinning and be able to dune the hell out of it. Jeff did a clean up on mine and they look pretty good to me. Going to match port the cases to the transfer bases and put her together. Working on cleaning up the frame now and then will get back on the motor. Cant wait

If you run the UNI stock replacment style filter, you cannot get rid of the lid altogether, the lid holds the filter on. What i did was cut the center out of the lid so that the entire top was open as if there was no lid, but it would still retain the filter. I will try to get pics tomorrow. Worked great and you dont need to screw with the airbox vents. I think they are junk for the same reasons mentioned earlier. Or you could ditch the lid and get a proflow kit with clamp on filter. if you only ride sand or dry conditions, ditch the whole box and get K&N clamp pods. If you go the pod route, up your main jet size to a 320 -340 to start and lean down if needed.

the bottom nipple on the overflow tank gets connected to the hose that runs to the top of the radiator. The nipple on top hooks to a hose that runs up the frame and just vents to the atmosphere. It loop up and dumps above the right pipe near where the trans vent line dumps. If your bike overheats it will spit and end up on the right pipe making lots of steam and you will see it then.

Hey have any of you guys used one of these things? http://www.rockymountainatv.com/viewLarger...ype#OtherImages I have seen a couple of different brands. what do you think about them?

Any body know the dyno specs on the 4mil x 72? Is the machining and extra cost worth it over the 4mil x 68? The larger displacement would help on the bottom end I imagine. I have been told that a 421 in good tune on race gas should put me at 85-90 HP does that sound right? So what would the 4mil x 72 put out/

Hey 530grafix, my bike will be an almost identical match to yours powerplant wise. How do you like the +4 arm. i currently only have a +2 arm, and am going to run it for now at least to break the motor in and get everything tuned then decide on how long to go. I dont want a drag bike though and really dont want to go too long. Everybody tells me +4 is the break point between being able to still jump and dune but still keep the front somewhat manageable. what do you think? Did you have your cylinders ported? or are they as cast cubs?

This is pretty much exactly how it was explained to me. I am in the process of building a 421 for my duner. Basically I was told the bottom end on a dyno sheet would probably be better than the stocker with bolt ons, but the power comes on so hard up top, that it will seem like there was nothing down low. basically lock load and hold on for the ride. :biggrin:

Honda HP gear oil in both my bikes

He He, take a look at the pic in my sig. My bike gave no warning whatsoever either, just bam wzzzzz, stick. By the time i hit the kill switch it was gone. Stock bottom end, 12 years old, it was its time i guess. You can see the rod, the little pile of molten goo was found in the pipe. I believe that is what is left of the rod bearing LOL. Call jeff at fast, he will steer you in the right direction. I ended up going to a 4mil cub. Probably will be doing a 4mil stock cylinder next for other bike. If you are planning on getting it ported anyway, you may as well buy the 4mil. Wont cost you much more to do the 4mil over the stock stroke since you have to buy a crank anyway.

How much to ship the bottom end to 95366? How long since the bottom end was put together??

Were going to find out, after talking to jeff, Im going to send them back to shearer and have him take a look at them. If he says thats as good as they get, i will just run em. If they start to rust around the welds, I'll clean em up and sell them. Next time i will have jeff order me a set raw and have them ceramic coated. i dont really think it is a chrome issue so much as a cleaning issue. it looks like they need to clean up around the welds a little more before sending them to chrome. it appears to me that the bare spots around the welds look like slag from the weld that didn't get cleaned up and the chrome didn't stick. Oh well, everybody says they run like a violated primate, so i'll make em work one way or another. Thanks jeff for all the help.

Holy crap, what is in ancient triples bike. That thing left like a rocket.

Lowbuck, sorry, no go on the cylinders, looks like im going to need them. However, was digging through my box of sh*t today. I have a stock thumb throttle with the cascade extended thumb lever on it. I also have front and rear brake rotors. And offer still good on the used T5's. chrome not the best, but no dents or cracks. Let me know. Oh yeah, I almost forgot, Im working on getting a used fullbore hood. The grill is in great shape, and there are no gouges or cracks, so if it is going to be painted anyway, it would be perfect.

here is another. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=90338

American star customer service blows if you have a problem. Spend your money elsewhere with a company that gives a crap. I finally gave up after fighting them for over 4 months on a swingarm that didn't work. Screw them. HERE IS SOME READING FOR YOU!!! http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=91457 http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=91350

The sharpie idea is a good one. I kind of do the same thing but use zip ties. When oil is put in the fuel jug and only after this is done, the jug gets a zip tie put around the handle. Once empty, the tie gets cut off so there is no chance of refilling it and thinking it is mixed. My brother (the only person i will allow to fill my bike) and i both use the same system and never deviate from it that way we dont fill up the bikes and burn them up.

Jeff, Cool. I was going to give you a call to ask you about them, just been so damn busy with other stuff haven't had a chance. I will run it by you and see if it is the norm for their chrome or not. It just looks like there are a bunch of spots around the seams that didn't take the chrome. If it were to stay this way, I probably wouldnt care once on the bike. But i am worried after any use the spots will start to rust and that will be a bummer. I'll give you a buzz next week.

Just got back about an hour ago. Was there tues through today and it got really packed starting last night and this morning was wall to wall. Hey, I was just there in january, and everyting was normal. Now i see they closed the beach of at marker 6 and took a chunk of dunes with it. WTF are the f'ing tree huggers ever going to be happy until they close the whole place down What the hell gives. Is this another one of those "temporary" things that becomes permanent. Those fences sure didn't look temporary. Im about done with that place. Keeps getting smaller and smaller. Im bummed

I really like the duncan bumper also. Trying to decide between the duncan or the cascade 3 bar chrome bumper.

So did they ever send out the correct arms, or are those the +2+1s that they claim are +3+1s. ASR dipshits. I hope nobody on this forum ever buys anything from them again.