rubberneck

The yellow red is the power coming into the switch. It is yellow before the plug by the tank and goes yellow red from the plug to the switch. Sorry forgot about that. Now you said aftermarket lights, do they have high and low beam? That complicates things if you want the tail light to work in both high and low beam running the style of switch you want to. If you are running high and low, then i belive you will need a double pole double throw switch with a center off postion. You would wire the tail light to both poles on one side and on the other side you would have the highs on one side and the low on the other. If they dont have high and low then it is easy, just tie the blue taillight wire to the yellow or green (whichever circuit you decide to use for your headlights)

Pull bowls off carbs and make sure the bike was rejetted for the K&N filter. If it wasnt and you were running hard in 6th, you could be too lean. The fact that it got hard to kick over worries me a bit. Oh yeah, and the spooled up feeling is why we all like banshees. Keep it wound up and enjoy. Report back what main jets are in the bike and somebody will let you know if they are correct for your set up.

I just rebuilt my bike from the ground up and yeah, it cost a whole hell of a lot more than buying one, but I wanted to do it, so I did. My advice would be not to buy a frame and pieces, but look for a thrashed or pretty worn but complete bike. First off you will learn a lot about the workings while taking it apart, and you can take detailed pics while together to help with reassembly. Second, a lot of the little shit is what will nickle and dime you to death. Even if you have to clean or polish or chrome a lot of the stuff thats on there, at least you dont have to go out and find it first. You can find a thrasher for what you have if you look hard enough.

Scrap metal baby. Dont run them on my bikes.

Shit, just bought a magelin. LOL Cant figure out of to use the damn thing yet, but hopefully this computard can work it out.

Didn't have time to wire up my headlights, so once the sun goes down i wont have anything to do but enjoy cold beverages. Hope to meet up with you guys. Nice to put faces to screen names.

Its on like donkey kong bitches. Hope to be on the sand about 13:00. Get off work at 07:00 going to throw the bike on the trailer and start driving. woohooo

I am pretty sure with the toomey jet kit, which may be similar with the dynojet kit, those are for 1/2 notch adjustments on the needle. I believe i remember that if you drop the needle and it is too lean, but leaving where you had it is too rich you can put the washer under the clip to rais it up half a click. Cant say as you could really tell half a clip, but maybe if you are really in tune with your machine you could. Anyway, i think thats what they are.

I went back to a stocker on my new motor. I bought a ricky stator, and noticed that the gap on the pick up was not the same between the two "nubs" on the flywheel. Damn thing was out of round right out of the box.

Ok, first off, i dont think that particular switch will work for a stock headlight set up. That looks to be a basic on off switch. I believe it has 3 prongs because it is illuminated and therefor needs a ground. If you have after market lights that dont have high/low beam, then that will work as long as it will carry the amperage. As far as removing the stock switch, this is what you need to do. Going in to the stock switch, you are going to have a black/white wire, that is the kill wire. You will also have a black wire. That is your ground. Wire one side of your new kill switch to the black wire and the other side to the black/white. For the headlights, there are a few more. The blue wire going in to the stock switch is the taillight. The green and yellow wires are your high and low beam. I dont remember which is high and which is low. If you are running aftermarket lights, you only need one of them anyway, either one will work. You dont need to ground the headlight switch unless it is illuminated. If you need the ground just tie into the black ground wire from the kill switch.

Hmm.. Thats strange, I have done tors elimination on a couple of bikes and cant say i noticed the throttle was stiffer afterwards at all. Did you lube the new cable? Makes a big difference

Added compression will tend to give you some pop off the bottom. I have seen guys say they run 20s and pump gas. You may be able to. I just dont like to push it, as detonation can tear things up fast.

If at sea level, with +4 timing and want to run pump gas, 21 cc domes

Roger told me that before he sold the bike, at one point he had it up over 500 HP I believe the number was somewhere around 540. Thats just nucking futs

What mains/pilots and clip are you running? What needle?

had to machine a 3/8" spacer and tweak the stinger a bit on the left side pipe to get it to clear the cub cylinder and the carb cap on the left carb. Mine are only a few months old also, so i would say you got a lucky set as far as fitment. Mine barely clear the lower fram also. Will keep an eye on them to make sure they dont start rubbing.

I would start around 300-320 at sea level with that set up and do a plug chop. I ran a 290-300 at sea level with a foam filter with no lid

Yes, foam or cloth (like k&N) Both require oil to filter properly. No oil, = kiss your motor bye bye

Ok, I thought I had been left out on some big secret. LOL I know i didn't see anything in the directions.

Check your PM, i gave you the whole story.

I belive jansen swingers are made by fireball racing.

Agreed, IF you still have airbox with foam filter. If you have k&n In air box, start with 300-310. If you have k&n pods, start around 320-330 and check those plugs. I have to run 340s with needle in second from blunt position in my bike in 50-60 degree temps sea level with PODs, timing +4

What did I miss, I dont recall anything about this in the directions that came with my VF3's. Will have to re-read them. First I have heard of this

Which side is smoking more?? Your porter could tell you which size pipes would be the best, but i would imagine small bores.

Ok, so i want to be clear exactly on what you are doing and asking. If I am reading this right, you have a 350 cub right? You want to stroke it to I assume 4mil? I have to ask why you want to stroke it? I assume you want more power. Now if you have the small carbs and dmc pipes, you are no where near gettting the potential out of that motor. I dont think adding a stroker crank and spacer plate is going to be the way to go here. I think you need to invest in some cpi's or shearer pipes and some at least 35 mm carbs. From what i have been told the cubs have a lot of transfer port area and like large carbs. Plus the relatively high exhaust port duration of the cub cylinders is not favorable to pipes like the DMC's. If you still want more than that you may be better off selling your cub cylinder and buying one set up for the stroke. Just my .02 By all means, what you have will work, but i kind of think you may be money and time ahead to get some different components before you start going to work. Others will chime in.