rubberneck

Dude, thats cool. I'd ride it.

Another vote for FAST. Jeff is a cool guy and he gets stuff out quickly. I just bought everything to build my 4mil cub from him and so far have been very happy with his service. He will shoot you straight and tell you what you need and what not to waste your money on.

Yep, that does suck. I dont doubt you when you say the old was worse, I guess the thing that is bumming me out is for 50 bucks more, I could have gotten them from cascade, and the chrome stuff i have seen from them has been stellar. Oh well, fuck it a couple of trips to pismo and it will probably look like shit anyway.

Whoohoo back up. I was having anxiety attacks without my hourly fix of banshee stuff. Was having to hang out elsewhere to keep the shakes to a minimu :biggrin:

I believe that rockymountain carries the electrex voltage regulators.

Here you go, down about 15 posts :smile: http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=91434

I dont know what raw is. Most guys are getting 625 for the shitty shearrer chrome ones, so for the extra 50, i wish i would have gone that route.

That makes sense to me. Im sure all the clutching I do while hill climbing doesnt' help matters.

So basically, if the crank and bearings are in good shape, you feel raising the compression is ok to do. I guess the only problem is in order to inspect everything and make sure it is in good shape i have to tear it down anyway. At that point i may as well true and weld it. LOL Oh well maybe ill just wait till she needs a rebuild and do it right.

jbooker, that is a bad ass bike. I love that frame. Simple, but has some bling when you really look close. I am doing similar, all black and chrome or aluminum. Wow what a difference, I might try to take a pic of the chrome on my sheares, but just in those pics I can tell how much nicer they look. Im kind of bummed. Oh well screw it, I can always buy another set later and sell this set. Hey man, I love that water pump cover, where did you get it??

Actually you can do wire feed aluminum if you have a spool gun. I have one, dont use it much. To get those really pretty welds that look like a roll of coins that have been spread out you need to TIG. TIG stands for tungsten inert gas. Also known as GTAW gas tungsten arc welding. Im not sure if there is one welder that does everything. It seems like with everything else, you start out with one and then they multiply. lol I just bought a miller dynasty 350dx. It is a tig welder and you can stick weld with it. It will weld from 5-350 amps. I have seen the soda can trick, and that is TIG welding for sure. I also have a millermatic 210 mig welder. To be honest, I think if you are only going to buy 1 I would get a good mig welder. Easy to use and can do a variety of welding for you. Plus it is just so much faster. A lot of heavy stuff like farm equipment gets the good old stick welder. The advantage is good penetration and you dont have to worry about welding outside in the wind like you would with a gas shielded process. Im no expert, thats for sure still learning everyday. One thing for sure is it is an enjoyable hobby, and very rewarding at least i find it to be.

We should start up a vendors not to buy from post in the off topic area. We could have a list of good ones and bad ones. I have had great luck with some and horrible with others. We could all benefit from a list with reasons why or why not to buy.

If the appearance of the chrome is important to you i would buy them from cascade. About 50 bucks more than from other vendors, but they get them raw and then have their plater chrome them. I just got a brand new set of shearers and the chrome is pretty bad IMHO. Had i known the difference, i would have got them from cascade

On my 4milx68 cub, I am going to be running 39PWK's on gas. I was told the cubs like air and that the 39's not only picked up HP on the top over the 35's but they actually gained a little torque in the middle too. I dont know anything about the vitos monoblock, but it sounds like it will be pretty aggressive, so i imagine it will respond well to the bigger carbs as well.

I agree with you on just about every point you made. Smokin2stroke, IMHO welders are like anything else, you get what you pay for. Listen to what racer is saying. Customer service and having a guy behind the counter that can look at a sample weld and give you suggestions is invaluable. I agree that you are going to need a wire wheel and grinder anyway, so you may as well figure those costs in now. I dont care what kind of welding you are doing even if you are good, you are going to screw up from time to time and have to fix welds. However, finished product appearance and clean up time have to be figured in and for that the gas feed will win hands down. The other thing is these small machines are geared towards lighter materials and like you said FC penetrates better. Try doing body work or really thin tubing with the flux core and you are going to be blowing lots of holes. To me anyway, it doesn't make sense to have a machine that limits you on amperage so you cant do any big stuff well, yet will not let you do really delicate stuff. Granted for some really light stuff, wire is probably the wrong process anyway, but i did a lot of bodywork and sheetmetal work on cars with little hobart handler gas feed for years before I got in to TIG welding. Seriously though, the most important point is that customer service will really help you when you are learing how to weld. It can be frustrating if you dont have somebody that can steer you in the right direction when you are learning.

I thought i read somewhere that you run the risk of crank separation the more you jack the compression. I have been resisting jacking the compression on my second bike becuase i was worried about this. good to know

Did you verify you are getting spark? Pull one of the plugs, stick it back in the cap and ground the plug against the head.. You should be able to see the spark while kicking it.

Are you talking about the hanger bolt in the rear on top of the silencer. With the toomeys you need to have a rear hanger. Either the stockers or the billet ones. The silencers dont bolt straight up to the grab bar bolts like some other pipes do.

I have to disagree. I just got my shearers drop shipped straight from shearer yesterday (So i know they aren't old stock sitting on a shelf somewhere) I think the chrome is pretty shitty. Im pretty disapointed to be honest with you. At every welded seam there are spots that the chrome didn't stick. Its almost like the welds weren't cleaned or something. And you can see every nick and scratch. Definitely not what i would call a show chrome as they are saying he now has done. Im really nervous about what theses things are going to look like after a trip or 2 to pismo. That salt finds anything bare. I really wish I would have ordered them from cascade now. They get them from shearer raw and have their show chrome done.

Dang, you just changed your avatar. put the other one back pleeeezzze

There is a preload adjustment on the stock rear shock. You can crank down the preload nut on top of the spring and it will decrease the sag when you are sitting on the bike

Take a nut thats inside diameter is a tad bit smaller than the diameter of the stud. Set it over the broken stud and weld the nut to the stud. This puts a good deal of heat into the stud itself and wont damage the case if done right. We have done this on lots of different applications. My dad just removed a broken bolt out of a hydraulic jackhammer for a bobcat. the bolt was broken off about an inch below the surface. Yes below the surface. He used an MG600 stick rod and welded the top of the bolt up in a spiral manner without sticking it to the inside of the bolt hole then topped it with a nut. Backed it right out.

Take the pipes off and stick them between the two chicks in kaos' avatar. They should rub that shit off in no time. :woot:

Can a coated item be recoated over the old coating if it is cleaned first, or does it need to be taken back to bare metal. If so, what is the easiest way to get pc off. Im not real happy with the pc on my a-arms, and i want them to be black now anyway. Currently them and my swingarm are silvervein. I would like to do them in gloss black.

Actually, those terms arent that bad IMHO. At pismo, I think they get like 60 bucks and hour with a 2 hour minimum for a bike.