xsinnerx

http://img4.imageshack.us/i/pipe1fq.jpg/ http://img4.imageshack.us/i/pipe2b.jpg/ http://img8.imageshack.us/i/pipe3o.jpg/ dont know what kind of pipe this is but it is a 2 into 1 let me know if interested.

do you have a stock stator for a 96, tried to pm you but its saying i have to wait.

when i got mine, i enlarged the coil size by twisting them the opposite direction if that makes any sense.

i would install a pro design high flow impeller

what kind do you have? will they fit cpi small bore? how much are you asking for? post a pic, i might be interested

I'll take the 18 cc domes from you pm me your info, i have to work tuesday but will check my pm's as soon as i get home and send you a postal money order.

are you talking about the screws on top of the carbs because I meant the idle screws on the side of the carbs. there is plenty of slack on the cable. when i turn the idle screws on the sides of the carbs there is no change in idle speed. also the bike seems to run better when i first start riding it but as it completley warmed up it starts to run worse.

ok I lied, when i did go down to a 45 pilot the bogging got way worse thats why i went back up. as far as the e-brake goes, its been gone since i got the bike, the bike ran good before i ported and added all the other mods, I know its not the gearing because i had the stock tires on and it did the same thing on hard packed dirt also. what kind of solder do you guys use when checking squish? I'll check the squish and if its good then i'll try moving the needle. do you think I should go leaner or richer on the needle first? thanks for your help guys!!! Also what about the idle screws not having any effect on the idle speed???

Hey guys, please help me, I have an HJR hillshooter port job, cpi inframes, 33 pwk's , boss intake and pods, v-force 3 reeds, noss head with 18 cc domes, + 4 timing, at 1000' running 110 octane, +4 swing arm, 21x12x8 8 paddle hauler. When launching in 2nd gear I have a bog for a cpl seconds before it really takes off. My jetting right now is 158 main, CEL needle middle clip, 50 pilot, air screw 2 turns out. I've tried going to a 48 pilot with air screw from 1 half turn out to 3 turns out and no difference, went to 45 pilot from 1 half turn out to 3 turns out and no difference, now i'm back up to a 50 pilot, I've tried air screw from 1half to 3 turns out with the 50 and still has the same bog. I dont know where to go from here. I dont have anywhere where i can run long enough at wot to do a plug chop but the top end pulls very hard. I noticed that when the bike is idleing and I stab the throttle it bogs and also when turning the idle screws in or out there is no change in idle speed.

I might have some of what you need, I have all my extra parts at my parents garage, i'll pick up my box of jets and let you know tomorrow. If I have what you need, you can have them for free.

Q#29:How do I test the Ignition Coil on the Stator? A#29:Using an ohmmeter and the specifications above, check the resistance between the red wire and the green wire on the four-wire harness coming out of the stator. Find the four-wire connector (usually white), at the front of the airbox on the right-hand side of the bike. Depress the little plastic retainer on the connector and disconnect the two connector halves. Take a look at the wire on the connector towards the front of the bike, it should run under the carbs and into the left-hand side of the motor

if you can get them 300 bucks i'd buy them and try them out, if you dont like them sell them for 500 and make a little profit.

where is the cheapest place to buy a new oem stator, my ricky stator crapped out on me after a year and a half.

I have a set of stock reeds and cages if you need them, just let me know.

I had the same problem, i was using a strap wrench to hold the flywheel while I tighten the flywheel nut, had to end up using loc tight and an impact, no problem since,