rubberneck

I think rocky mountain also has gift certificates. Not quite as personal, but he is guaranteed to get what he wants. :biggrin:

Screw ASR. They suck. Their customer service blows if it isn't a simple problem

hmmm. that is strange. what kind of pyro you running?

Hmmm. thanks for the tips guys. I pretty much have the motor covered for bolts at this point, and like said, I am removing just about everything that doesn't make it go. Soooo maybe I am better off putting together my own kit. I dont have a fastenal, but there is a local place that carries just about every fastner you could think of. Maybe i will do a little homework before getting out the credit card just yet. Thanks again

Hey bigred, can you elaborate on how this is done? what is being cut. I have heard this mentioned before, but haven't gotten any specifics. Pics would be great if anybody has any. thanks

Thanks for the heads up. I remember some negatives from the other threads back when. I only really plan on using them in non critical area. Mostly dress up. I ordered stock bolts that were chromed for the motor. Will use the alloy bolts for dress up everywhere but suspension and motor

Thanks man, that is who i was looking at. Just trying to decide if i want to paint the frame red and get black plastics or pain the frame black and get red plastics. I thought about black on black, but I think i might get bored with that.

Thanks dajo, I did notice on the alloybolts ebay store, they have some 12pt stainless bolts for the footpegs and lower motor mounts now. I will pick up the fastnerguy kit and order the peg bolts from alloybolts then. thanks As far as show polish goes, probably wont matter, a couple of trips to the beach and everything will look like shit anyway. LOL

Savage, where did you get the lakers from? I am trying to decide between black and red.

Carb synch is very important. You can try to get them close by feeling the slides and making sure they open and close the same amount at the same time. The only real way to do it is to use a synch tool though. You will never get them right on without one.

That blows. What screw did you lose?? Sorry man, that really sucks.

Welcome to the wonderfull world of the shitty banshee chain adjustment system. There is not enough adjustment. This is one of the reasons a lot of people go to the roundhouse style carrier and swing arm. You may be able to find a half link. Nobody around me carries them. I dont know if they are really that good of an idea anyway.

That was just a blast up to about 80-90 mph. That was before i detuned the truck. Had 160hp EDM's with smarty/drag comp stack and B1 turbo. From dead stop through the 1/4 (with g-tech) i used to hit just under 1600. No biggie in short blasts. On my buddies pull truck, we have pegged a 2000 degree gauge :shoothead: ONly 800, you must be running the pyro post turbo. Even stock I could hit 1200 pre turbo with a light load easy.

Ok guys, sorry, I know this has been covered because i remember reading about it. For some reason the search feature is giving me heck. There were 2 different brands of bolt kits and i remember some bad press on one of them. Which kit is the best one to get? Where did you get it? I have seen some on flea bay, and and cascade has the alloy boltz kit i believe. thanks EDIT: Ok on flea bay, they have a kit by the fastnerguy and then alloyboltz. There are several different sets ranging from 100 bucks to almost 300. I am kind of assuming you get what you pay for. What do you think? Also what is different about the alloyboltz kit on flea bay and the one cascade sells?

The caliper floats on 2 pins. pull the caliper off, remove the pins and lubricate them.

Here is a pic after playing around a bit.

I had been running 25 pilots, air screw 1.5 turns, needle 4th clip from blunt and 290 to 300 mains(depending on temp) in my bike with foam filter in box with no lid. When i went to k&N pods with outerwears, I had to go to a 340 main and drop the needle two positions. Changes verified by plug chop. FWIW with the t5s, I left the stock pilots in and reduced the air screw by 3/4 turn. I would go up 4 mains and check plugs and go from there. Summary: i ended up at 340 main, clip in 2nd spot from blunt end on stock needle, 25 pilot, air screw 3/4 turns out with K&N pods, T5's and timing bumped to +4 at 60-70 degree F at sea level.

rocky mountain sells the ufo. Problem is they only make front and rear fenders, no tank covers or rad shroud. i ended up buying oem yamaha from yamaha of troy for my bros bike. I am thinking about the lakers for my cub bike. i like them better than fullboar. I dont like the rounded look of the fullboars.

I am shooting for 180psi compression, havent finished buttoning things up to check it, but should be pretty close with the 20cc domes as jeff sells a bunch of them and thats about where he said they usually land. The reason i went with the 39pwks is that Jeff from fast recomended them. When i went to place my order for the whole cub set up, i asked for 35's. Jeff said go 39. He said on the dyno, not only do they pick up HP, but torque also. Also, a bunch of guys on planet sand agreed. They said the cubs love to breath and that 39's on gas work really well. Some guys have said 35's would be better, a little smoother power transition down low, but i went with what the guy selling me the stuff recomended. Your builder may recomend different. If you do a stock cylinder 4mil, 33-35 would probably be the way to go, at least that is what i have heard, again whoever is doing the porting will be able to give you a recomendation. Also, for a duner, I decided against an override and lockup. I was concerned with backloading the trans too much which can bend shift forks in a duneable override. I am going to try the stock trans with Jeffs clutch and see how she does. Some guys have said absolutely go override, but i was just a little concerned about longevity with the type of riding i plan on doing. If you dont do the override, dont do the lockup. Makes shifting with a clutch harder. I did do the lockup cover though as it will allow me to easily change a clutch if need be. I think I am on the edge as far as clutch reliablility and HP is concerned without the lockup. I have a spare clutch and plan on taking it to the dunes with me just in case, and the lockup style cover should make it a snap.

That will get you the motor.

Very true, but he asked for ultimate, so.... Now budget wise, a fully built cub, stator, regulator lights swinger a-arms shocks etc, you will have 8-10 k in it. Ask me how I know. Definitely cheaper to buy one built, just another .02 on the situation

If you want some good lighting, you need to step up and get a 200watt stator. The stock stator will only handle 2 x 35 watt lights. For the PIAA lights, you can get them from ricky stator, or you can get the small billet lights from trail tech, lazer star, or ricky stator. HIDs are available from ricky stator, trail tech, baja designs, and many others. Check out this thread for some good info on HID. justintoxicated in this thread has a lot of experience with HID and answered a lot of my questions. I haven't decided which lights Im going with yet as I just blew about 6 grand on my bike in the last 2 months and the lighting is going to have to wait until next season. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=87945 As far as putting lights under the bumper. The lower on the bike you put the lights, the less effective they are IMHO. Also in my experience with both the PIAA and the trail tech billet lights, I dont care for flood lights. To me the light is wasted. I prefer to run multiple spot lights or driving beam and aim them where i want. I would get a 200w stator and regulator, then put 2x 50 watt spots down in the stock position, and 1 50, or 2 x 35 watt spots on the bars. It makes it nice when some of the light is on the bars as it lights where you are steering. If you go HID, you woul probably just need 2 x 35 watt down low and maybe a smaller 35 watt billet style on the bars for killer light.

Glamis is wide open and the dunes are huge and soft. Horsepower rules there. I would build a 4mil aggresively ported stock cylinder or a 4mil cub, 39pwks with billet bowls, shearer inframes billet clutch basket, HD clutch, billet impelar, cool head and lots of bling. +2+1 a-arms, good shocks, widened rear axle, 4inch roundhouse swinger. Do a DC conversion and put some HID headlights on it. 21x12x8 skat trak haulers with 22x8x10 fronts. Oh wait, thats what i am building :biggrin:

Yeah, I have been thinking about it more and more. I guess if I were to crash and land on my head hard, I would be thankfull i had it. The older I get the more paranoid I get about being hurt. Im definitely not ready to hang up my helmet and buy something with a roll cage, I am just trying to be smarter than i was when i was young and invincible. Used to ride in a helmet, with shorts and vans. Now i gear up. A couple of hundred bucks is way better than being paralyzed or killed. I was just curious if they are really bulky of uncomfortable. I know my self, and if it is too uncomfortable, I probably wont wear it and then that is just wasted money. Thanks

Thanks snop. Another question in relation to stock AC system. So just hook the wire coming out of the regulator to the lights direct, then switch the ground side of the relay to do the switching correct? So basically we are switching the power before it ever gets to the regulator and therefor not heating up the system. I have that part I think, and I like the idea of putting fuses inline. Now my question is the whole diode/ 1/2 dc wave thing. You lost me there. Im not an eletronics guy. Is that the only way to make the relay work with the ac system? What size or type of diode would I need (I have no clue about diodes.) thanks again Oh yeah, so could i just jumper power from the power wire off stator (terminal 30m on your diagram) and put diode in line then hook up to terminal 85? Then switch in line between terminal 86 and ground correct?