rubberneck

Hey loco, isn't that the best shit ever. Your shit gets stolen and you have to pay to get it out of the fucking tow yard. Had this happen on a Honda civic. God damn car got thrashed and wasn't worth what we had to pay to get it out of the tow companys yard. Signed the title over to them. Total bullshit Not to mention the tow companies are in with the fucking city to make money. they had our car for like 3 days before we ever got a call. Alll the time racking up more "storage" fees. Crooked shit i tell ya.

Yeah, what is the deal, my feedback jumped up 5 points too. WTF is that all about. And yeah, i think it is bullshit how most of the sellers use the feedback as blackmail. If you aren't happy with your shit they can leave you negative feedback. Bottom line as a buyer i pay usually within hours of auction end and to me that is the end of my responsibility and should get me a postive feedback period. These sellers wait until you leave them positive before they will do the same. Thats fucking lame. I even had it happen with a guy who is on here a lot. To me the good and honest sellers list their feedback as soon as i pay. But why did all of our feedback numbers increase?

Hey dajo, is it the raptor fibers and steels, or just the raptor steels and the FZR fibers? Also, i have seen toomey and barnett HD springs, which ones are stiffer?

I havent' been there, but i wouldn't sweat it. I ride glamis and dumont and sand mountain nev. There are some big ass steep hills there. I would pin that bitch to the wood and keep shifting up till she wont pull anymore then hang on. If it starts to lug down at the top kick it down a gear and let her sing.

Did you check your float height when you pulled the bowls off? Improper float height or a stuck float can cause this. How many turns out are your air screws.

My brothers bike was doing same thing, there was a chunk of gasket missing out of the top of the clutch cover gasket. when the bike would run the oil would splash around, find the gap and then dribble down the back of the cover. FYI, a great trick for finding oil leaks on any thing. Clean everything really well and spray it with athletes foot powder (or anything that will leave a white residue in an aerosol can) run it and then look for the streak of oil in the powder.

Friends dont let friends put raptor plastics on a shee. Just say no

Snop, the first RS 200watt i got had the same damn problem. Just as the bike would start to pull through the powerband, it would sound like i had a rev limiter on it. Put stock stator back in ran fine. They warrantied it. He tried to tell me it was very unusual to have that problem out of the box After reading more and more about it on here i think they are FOS

Did you check your float height? Also, pull the petcock out of the tank and make sure the screens are clean. Are you running inline fuel filters? If you are remove them. if you dont have an air leak, then somehow the bike is being starved for fuel. I had a similar set up and ran 290 mains at sealevel. At 5k feet something deff seems fishy.

If you are concerned with rocks and stumps, get the 22 inch rears and the 23 fronts. I run 22-11-9 razr2's rear and 23-7-10 fronts. My buddies run same size but holeshots. The extra clearance is nice. a lot of guys are going to tell you not to because they are heavy, and that is true, but i will give a little up for the clearance. It just works where we ride. I would also drop a tooth on front sprocket if you step up to the 22s.

It has been dead as a mofo over there lately. Not many new posts at all. Wonder how long it will last like that

ATC's kick ass, have an 86 250r and an 83 250r. Learn to ride an ATC and you will be a much better rider on a quad. There will alway be a place in my heart for a trike. First bike i had was an ATC70 with an xr 70 dirtbike motor in it (4 speed manual trans) bored out to 90cc, i kicked everybodys ass on the tracks. Good memories

red plastics look sick with a black frame. Check out fireheads duner bike. That bike talks to me. Plus if you go with a black frame, you can go to just about any color plastic later on and it will go well. I get tired of the way my bike looks from now and then. I have a couple diff colors plastic i switch to and they all go with black. just my .02

Sorry man, that blows. You got a buddy with a boat? Sounds like you need to invite her to go fishing with you in some deep water

The larger 68 mm bore doesn't really have anything to do with the exhaust needs, its the drag port specs the cubs have. The cylinders you have are designed to make high HP at high RPM. Thats why everybody is telling you to stick with the CPI or shearer pipes.

Yeah, jets are good to have on hand. When i first installed my Pods, nothing else changed, i threw some 300s in(2 sizes up from what was in bike) It would absolutely fall on its face and pep just as the powerband came on. I threw in some 320s because that was the biggest i had. Ran great, but plug chop showed very little color at all. I threw in some 340s and everything looked good on the plugs, and it ran great on top. Became a little doggy in the middle, and i ended up having to drop the needle down 2 notches to lean out the middle. It runs spot on now, couldn't be happier. Temp was in the 50s, so i could probably throw a 330 in there now and lean it back up a bit. I can hang with just about all stockish 4 strokes and usually out run them on the flats at pismo. The LTRs with a good rider are wheel to wheel as well as the piped raptor 700s. If the 4 poke has more than pipe and airbox, somethimes they will give you fits but not often. Some good porting on that thing and you will walk them all day long.

Hey man, do yourself a favor, do a plug chop. I have the same set up and have to run 330-340 mains at pismo. With airbox and foam filter no lid, i was 280-290 mains, but with the pods, i had to go up to 330-340s.

T5's with air box removed (i assume that means it has k&N pod filters right?) If thats the case and you are at or near sea level, you are lean. I would go up to about a 320 on the main and see how it runs. you may need to raise the clip on the needle a notch or 2 after you go up on the mains.

For gas, run b8es or br8es plugs Only oil in the motor is the trans fluid. That is why you have to mix oil in the gas. The motor gets oil from the gas unlike a 4 stroke. 32:1 seems to be a popular ration, and as far as amsoil being the best, that is up for debate.. Just buy what you have readily available and dont worry about it as long as it is for a motorcyle you will be fine. I have run yamalube, redline, belray, all worked fine. if bike is stock, then yeah, 92 is good

Another one bites the dust. Just remember "I do really means I don't, at least not anymore" LOL. seriously, congrats goin on 10years myself

I haven't personally jetted for t6's, but assuming they are relatively close to t5's, you should be in the ballpark. I run 340s, stock needle on 2nd clip from blunt with 25 pilots (sea level timing +4 K&N pods. 50 degree weather) In warmer weather i throw a 330 main in. You will need to do a plug chop to verify where you are at.

Here is my vote (what i have on my bros bike and my bike before the cub) T5's great dune pipe in my opinion, i liked the powerband where it was for the sand. VF3's, coolhead with 21cc domes, timing +4, K&n pods or a proflo adaptor and k&n in the box, no lid. With that combo, jetted and tuned right, you will give most 4 strokes fits. If you decide you want more, get the cylinders ported. Carbs would be my last mod as the stockers rock with a bolt on bike, and a lot of guys rock the stockers on ported bikes. FYI, the stockers are 26mm

compression and rebound adjustable or just compression? Also you said they were set up for mx, but what weight? thanks

The only thing i can add is that if you are installing a new throttle cable, recheck the synch after the first weekend or so of riding. In my experience they will change a bit when the cables are first new. I synch them when i put them on, after the first couple days of riding, and then whenever i am doing routing maintenance, i give it a quick check.

The fact that it has an eratic idle could indicate an air leak. Do you have anybody that can pressure test it for you? Or you could spray carb cleaner around the intakes/base gasket etc while running and listen for it to change the way it idles. Also did you sych the carbs with a synch tool. It matters IMHO