rubberneck

When i got ready to buy mine, i shopped around a bit, and it seemed that everybody had them priced pretty close. The thing is you cant place a price on customer service. Shop around ask questions, make sure whoever you buy from knows their shit. If they cant or wont answer your questions before you buy, shop somewhere else. When i first called jeff, he started at the bottom of the motor and we worked our way up. He asked me what i wanted the motor to do and what i already had on hand and he nailed it. I got everything i needed at one time. He gave me some tips on what to look for and what to check. Its nice to know if you have questions, the man with the answers is only a call away, and you wont have to go through 3 people to get to him. My .02

FWIW, I didn't have to touch a damn thing on my bike when i put the vf3's in, so my vote also is to check air leaks etc. I know in here some guys needed to lean the needle, i didn't.

It will also help to know elevation, what pipes, what filters etc. I could be wrong too, but i think 30mm carbs are a bit small to get the most out of a set of cub cylinders.

dont forget the cheetahs have the capability of a powervalve also.

What does the oil look like? That can give you a clue to the condition of the clutch.

If I had PC'd everything I probably wouldn't worry about it, but I painted everything with 2 stage, so im a little paranoid.

parking brake switch. Simply unplug or cut it off at the harness and insulate the wires. That switch works by completing the circuit when the brake is on and therefor causing the bike to act like you describe when brake is on. When the circuit is open, the bike will act like normal. Since you removed it, it thinks the brake is on. Just remove it, and yeah, remove the rest of the tors garbage.

Has anybody flushed their system out and put straight DOT 5 in? The cool thing about DOT 5 is it doesn't attack paint. I run in it my Baja and it has saved the frame and calipers a couple of time from some oops when filling or bleeding the brakes.

I've been buying everything from jeff lately because his service is great. However, sometimes you just need something right away. It is very frustrating when you need a part and the moron at the dealers cant tell their elbow from their butt. If you say the word banshee at my local dealer they look at you like a long lost bastard child come back to collect inheritance. They seem to forget if it wasn't for the success of the banshee they wouldn't be selling those fart can 450s and craptors they are always trying to get me to buy.

Here is what spawned my "rebuild" LOL

No point in cleaning it before you put the grinder to it. No worries though, it cleaned up just fine. LOL Same motor in my sig:

Yeah, im sure a lot depends on the type of gasket you are using also. The one for my cub was actually bigger than it needed to be, couldn't use it to do the gasket match trick. Here is that same set of cases with the gasket laid over the studs. Notice the scribe lines are inside the gasket material.

Yep simple process, drill, tap, and square the boss that the screw goes in. I did mine on a mill, but would have not problem doing it with a handrill and some care.

What about when you go to put it back together, how do you ensure the shift forks engage properly if the gears are in the top half and you are trying to lower the bottom back on? Or is it a lot easier than i am making it out to be? This could def save some time if all you needed to to was some trans work or change a fork

I just read a post on here not too long ago about this. They said it can be done, i dont see any reason it couldn't. Just turn the motor upside down and lift the bottom half off. I guess you would just need to hold the trans in the bottom half with your hands carefully while you lower it back on.

Either way works fine if you take your time. Gasket matching to me is just a little more cumbersome, you have to make damn sure the gasket sits exactly right while you are marking it out, plus if the gasket is bigger than the cylinder at any point, you will be taking off more material then needed.

Shut the fuck up bitch. It died a month ago and you come back in here to stir shit up. I dont think im a badass, and i sure as shit am not going anywhere. I actually contribute to the forums not just bitch like the cunt you are. And i have zero problems with women, not starving for attention at all. Go the fuck away.

Its not really as much as you might think, most areas were 1/8 inch or so. Basically, i just ground to the scribe lines and tapered it smooth down to the bottom. Looked just like the pics of the completed set above. Not too bad of a job at all.

What did you come back just to stir up some more shit. Leave already. Have you ever even posted in another thread or just this bullshit one? Let it die already and go the fuck away.

I put some Dykem blue on the case surface to give nice contrast when you scribe. I then bolted the cylinders to the top case half and turned it upside down. I have a scribe that is hooked on one end, so i could reach up through the bottom and scribe a mark on the case following the contour of the transfers on the cylinder. I feel this is easier than gasket transfer method because you are using the cylinder bolted down as it is going to be during final assembly, and you dont need to worry about the gasket moving around on you. Here is a pic of a set i scribed, but didn't use the dykem, you can kind of see the scribe marks in the pic, but not great. (Hence the use of the dykem, makes life a lot easier especially if you have shitty eyes like me. LOL)

Thanks man. I have the FAST clutch in my cub and and a Cascade clutch in the other bike (which i was told is the same as the fast, dont know) reason i ask is i swear the springs that came with the cascade clutch were stiff as hell and the ends looked like they had been ground on. The clutch i got from jeff had different springs. I only ran 3 of the springs in the cascade clutch, because its a bolt on bike only. For the cub I put all 6 HD's in because im not running a lockup. Jeff felt i would be fine as long as i stick to sand and dont get 2 greedy with the clutch. Time will tell. I may end up putting an override and lockup in eventually anyway. Bike is getting less and less dune and more and more go fast. My buddy needs a clutch, and just for shits and giggles, i am going to price out the stuff above and use the extra 3 springs i have left from the cascade clutch.

That will make somebody a really nice bike man. I am about 75% into building the same bike and let me tell ya, you cant build it for 9K. Hope all goes well. Make sure you stick around here, otherwise who's gonna stick it in Carrie Underwoods ass? :biggrin:

Yep, this is exactly correct. Each plug on our motors fires twice every rpm.. when i set up my vapor, i had to account for this.

Are you talking about the swingarm skidplate of the chassis one? I hope it is the swingarm one. I just ordered one and hoped it was a nice one. I got an armadillo one and didn't like the way it looked on the bike. Gave it to my brother. Which one did you get? The regular or the bulletline? Pics would be great

What the hell is it with these suspension companies? Is there any company out there that actually provides a good product at a reasonable price and the customer service to back it up? I had nothing but trouble with ASR and others on here have as well. I've heard bad about leagers and several other companies. what the fuck, can anybody get it right? I mean of course there are guys that are going to say I love my brand X they were great, but when there is a problem, it seems non of these companies can pull their head out of their asses. Damn annoying i tell ya. I want to put all new suspension on my bike and pass mine down to my brother, i just can decide who to take the chance on and send my money. Just dont want to get screwed around like last time.