rubberneck

Yep jeff at fast told me i needed the pingel. you also need to gut the cap and drill out the vent as large as you can. I went with the billet bowls also. He highly recomended them i figured they were a hell of a lot cheaper than a top end.

that thing looks great. How about a 4 mil cub in that bitch

Another vote for FAST. Jeff is a good guy, he will sell you what you need and nothing more. He actually knows the shit he sells and ships fast. It is nice to know that if you have questions the answers are only a call away.

I kind of took it to mean he didn't have enough traction to climb the hills. if that is the case, the extended swinger is hurting you. what type of terrain and hills are you riding? What kind of tires are you running? give some specifics, and im sure there is somebody on here that rides the same stuff and can help you out?

When you did your clutch, what condition was the basket in? Did you replace the inner hub? What about pressure plate? if the hub or basket is grooved or the press plate warped, it can make the clutch not want to dissengage all the way

That sounds cool. With all the places that are getting shrunk down and now i keep hearing Pismo may be gone as of july since the lease is up in june, we need to fight back. Damn tree huggers unite and dont back down. We need to do the same.

watching it in my ebay. :biggrin: What master are you running on the red bike? I also have the 450 calipers. Havent' tried them yet with the banshee master, but figured I may as well go all 450 unless you know of a hotter set up.

Another vote for cascade. I look at is a one of those deals where you get what you pay for. I haven't gotten anything from them that I have been dissapointed with

Damn, I wanted that 450 master cylinder. I thought i saw on another thread that it was sold pending payment. Maybe im losing my mind. bummer. I guess i'll have to keep an eye on ebay for it.

Ouch, for that much change he could have built a cub with override and lock up. Trinity does suck

Get in the classifieds, get yourself a frame. What the hell did you hit?

THANK YOU I need a couple of sets also. When i go to the local dealer and try to describe things, they just give me a blank stare. Any thing older than a yfz450 and you are a second class citizen there. Dumb assess

You dont want to weld all the way around because it can put too much heat in the pin and cause an out of round condition. Jeff at fast did the reweld on my 4mil hotrods and i would say there are 2 beads about 1/2 inch long on each side of the pin. It needs to be tig welded by the way. I cant get pics untill sunday cause crank is at dads shop right now and i wont be over there untill then. Maybe somebody can shoot some sooner.

Another vote for haulers. I find i need to put a little more body language into turning, but the traction benefits far outweigh any negatives to me.

What kind of riding are you doing? If no porting, I would stick with stockers or go to some 28pwks. I dont see the point of a single carb but to each their own. If you are going to do some aggressive porting, talk to your porter to see what carbs he recomends.

Come on guys. I know there are a few guys on here that do frame mods.

Everybody has made valid points, but if he is talking about going to a really hot drag ported stock cylinder motor, he is going to need all the drivetrain upgrades also. So instead of setting everything up for the stock cylinder now, He can just buy once and be done. By all means building a cub from scratch new parts is not cheap. About 4k, but he will be hauling the mail.

Cleaning up my frame getting it ready to paint so i can finally ride this pig. My stocker was bent at one time and a poor attempt at fixing it was done by PO. They overheated it and it bulged where they bent it back. I can fix it with some time and tlc and you dont really see it anyway with the plastics on. Here is the thing it would probably be quicker to just build a new subframe though. I figure by the time i clean off all the old brackets and fix the damage, i could have the old bender out and be done. I was told that the drag guys use 3/4 by 0.058" chromoly. Is this sturdy enough for a duner bike. I really like the clean look of the aftermarket subframe, but dont want to have this thing break in the dunes with my ass on it. Should i just put the time in the stocker? What material would you guys use? I need to research the tubing and find out of they have a thicker wall than .058" or is that more than sufficient you think? What about going with some DOM mild steel? I know it is probably some metric size, but the stock subframe appears to be about 7/8" x .065". All opinions appreciated. thanks phil

Yeah, i have heard that from some guys that you can have too many mods. Some people recomend the star or the shift pro but not both. Some love both. I am going to try both and then remove one if i dont like it.

How does it run against a 4mil out of the box cub? It would be cool to have a BHQ get together somewhere and get a bunch of different combos side by side to compare

I have never owned a drag ported stock cylinder. My buddy has a pretty aggressive stock cylinder bike, but its a 7mm stroker. I have ridden it quite a bit it hauls ass. So I cant really compare the 2 motors for you because the stroker is a different beast. I decided to go cub on my rebuild because in the end it really wasn't that much more money. Figure a good drag port is probably around $500 on up. You can buy the cub cylinders for $850. From what i have read, it will take a really good stock cylinder port job to outrun the cub out of the box. You can then take the cub and have it drag ported to get even more out of it. All of your old components exept the domes in your head are compatible, so that is a non issue as far as cost. I struggled a little with the cub decision only because i wasn't sure if i wanted to give up all the bottom end as it was described to me. I was considering play ported stock cylinders vs cub. If i was considering drag ported stockers, I dont think i would have struggled at all. May as well go cub. Just my perspective.

You dont need to mod that one because the notch right before it is 6th gear. The detent roller never goes over that peak.

Yes that is exactly what they are.

cool thanks. Out of the box, all 4 rings were spot on 13, Both bores were exact according to my bore gauge, and the pistons measured out within .0005. Im pretty impressed with the consistancy of these parts way better than the VW shit im used to dealing with. The only thing i noticed is that the hotrods 4mil crank is on the max for all tolerances. Rod side cleareancw was .025 on both rods, and the width of each throw as well as the overall width were exactly at max tolerance. Dont know if that really matters, just something i noticed. I measure everything, force of habit i guess. LOL We have a really really expensive scale at work used for measuring drugs. I will be weighing the pistons tomorrow just for shits and giggles. I used the same one to check the balance on my Last VW motor. I wonder what my boss would think about me weighing motor parts on a drug scale. Oh well we wont let him find out. LOL

Ok putting together my 4 mil x 68 cub finally. I have .003" piston to cylinder clearance. I currently have .013" ring end gap. Just wanted to make sure these are within spec. Should I open those rings up a couple of thousandths? In the paperwork with the wiseco pistons, it says rule of thumb minimum is .004" for each inch of bore diameter. I am within that number, but wanted to check with the pros before I buttoned her up.