rubberneck

Ok, i remember finding a thread from way back in the day that talked about back cutting a trans for better shifting. If i remember correctly it even had some pics. I can not for the life of me find it again. Anybody have it bookmarked or remember what the hell im talking about. Im about 90% on what i need to do, just want to review before i chuck the gears up in the mill and start cutting every other dog and window off.

If you are wanting to be able to pitch it into a slide, just make sure you take your old paddles with you. LOL Here is what is going to happen with a swinger that short and tires that hook that well. You lean into it hard stab the throttle and its going to start the slide and then all of a sudden the powerband hits the haulers hook and you are going to keep going in the direction you were headed only you will be looking at the clouds. I have the exact tires you do and they are great for soft sand and climibing out of idiot holes and what not, but slideable, they are not. I ran them on a +2 arm. I still use them from time to time depending on where i ride, but usually run my skat trak 21/12/8 EDGE for just general duning and screwing around.. If you like the way they run, but want to back the traction down just a hair try running more air.

That is a ton of tire for a stock swinger. Expect the front to be in the air all the time if you have any power at all.

cool man, keep us updated. I love cummins diesels man, they just get in the blood. I have the itch real bad lately to get the 12valve conversion project going. Cant decide between a 69-72 chevy longbed truck or a suburban of the same era as the recipient. All i know is that im going to build me a "Big Boy" motor this time. Going to start at the Pan and work my way all the way to the top. Oh and dont worry about controlling EGT, you will never do it. If you do, you will just add more fuel to compensate. You know you will dont lie to yourself. LOL

Well here goes, i am by no means a twin expert, but do have a little bit of experience on 12 valve pull trucks. We were running them before the current 62 and 64 mm switzer hybrids were on the market, so we didnt have those options. First set up was an hx35/21cm housing with a ht3b/26cm. it was an old mitchell puller set that we got as a partial sponsorship to run out here on the west coast. That set up was pretty good until we really cranked the fuel up. There were no wastegates on the system,so when the boost got above the 80 psi range, the egts were off the charts. We would peg a 1600 degree gauge about 1/3 the way down the track. We then stepped up to a Piers Stupid pump with 13mm plungers and the fuel was just way too much. So we put a holset H2e on top with an ht4b on the bottom, and then put an external gate infront of the small charger to limit max boost to about 100psi. Fine on the pull track but pretty damn laggy. Pulling just started to get way expensive, so my buddy sold the truck. Now another buddy ended up doing a set of mitchell street twins later on and he ran a hx35/14 nonwastegated housing on top with the same ht3b/26 on the bottom. In this set up they utilized an external wastegate before the small charger to limit drive pressure. Therer was an "adaptor housing" for lack of a better term between the exhaust manifold and the charger on which the external gate mounted. He had a popoff valve as a safety backup, but idealy you dont want to use the pop off for boost control. On your setup, Your 62 wastegate may flow enough, i cant answer that. I have a 62/14 myself, but it is one of the very 1st ones they started making and i think i have more like a 66 or 68mm compressor im not sure i have never measured it. The nice thing about it is that it wastegates both sides unlike the stock 35 gates so if it will flow enough then that is a bonus. if you dont mind spending the money the externals are nice because they are easily adjusted. Im thinking that you may be just fine with using the internal gate on the secondary charger you have and see where your drive pressures run. If you need to add a wastegate between the primary and secondary later on to control total boost then that wont be that hard. You dont have near the fuel that we had so it may not be necessary to go crazy with the gates. Nowadays, there are so many set ups that have been tried that i think somebody on the hot rod diesel sites could probably dial you in before you ever start cutting and welding. i will tell you that you will have more lag with that charger when it is in a twin configuration than it does now as a single. I have an old 12 valve sitting in the back yard now, when funds allow i plan on building a street machine out of it. My plan is to run my 62/14 on top with probably an s400 on the bottom, with gates on each.

dinner, what size exhaust housing is on the bh3tb? Also what size is your current charger. Are you going to put an external wastegate infront of the small charger? what about in front of the 3b? that is a steal on the 3b

Bump again. Hes a shit part dealer, I was really dissapointed to see him as a sponsor.

Umm, yes they do, It has only happened to me a couple times in probably the last 20 years or so, but i have been checked. if you do not have paperwork, they will impound your shit.

I would like to echo these thoughts. I have a set of inframe and out of frame pipes from your competitor. The fitment and chrome are IMHO horrible. If you can make a pipe that runs like hell and fits like they should and the chrome actually stays on the welds, im sold for a set of each.

Oh shit, 1 savage from BC was more than enough, now we have 2 Welcome

Sounds pretty consistant, i kick 180 at sea level with 20s

Loco, the cool thing about the honda hub is that those sprockets (at least the ones in the upper 30 range) are pretty run of the mill as they are stock on the ATC and TRX bikes. So you should be able to find cheap steel ones anywhere. Down into the lower 30s, i dont know. I have a honda hub but it currently has a 43 or 42 on it it think. Baby motor compared to yours

Yeah, i dont get it, how can 2 motors that are basically the same behave so drastically different. Perhaps it is the design of the domes? I dont know, that is for somebody way smarter than me to figure out. My motor did run the .012 base gasket and the squish was .050 thou. The domes were from FAST, and im not sure if they were run of the mill cut by noss or if jeff has them cut to his specs. I belive the squish band was 10mm wide if i remember, its been a while since i looked at it.

Here is the deal. A 421 with .050 thou squish and 20cc domes using blaster profile pistons gives you an UCCR of around 14:1. Im not sure you really want to run less than 110 octane on that. I dont. My bike with the 20 cc domes kicks 180 psi at sea level on a know accurate Snap-on gauge. It is a run of the mill cleaned up 421 cub. Now lets say i take the motor send it off and have a full blown drag port done and change nothing else. Assuming they change the duration fo the exhuast i will more than likely see a drop in kicking compression. Does that mean i can now run lower octane fuel? I dont believe so. Im not saying you are wrong, that has just been my experience. if what you are doing is working cool. To the OP, i would consider better fuel if i were paying the bills.

For a trail bike i would pass on the override. Put a new clutch cable/easy pull lever, Mod the shift shaft, and make sure everything in the clutch/shifiting assembly is like new. That thing will shift fine and you wont have to worry about how you ride it. I have Jeffs 350 duneport in one of my bikes. Hes gonna tell you to go with 33 pwks. My bike is set up to run t5s and that is what he told me to run. I asked him about 28s and he said trust me i know my motor, run 33s. Havent spent the money to put the 33s on it yet because the stockers run excellent. So my advice to you would be do carbs last. You might find you dont even want to upgrade. Jeffs playport 350 T5 pipes with +5 timing 185psi compression on 110octane, stock carbs and stock reeds. The bike honestly amazes me how it runs for what it is. It truly is a night and day transformation, good power everywhere. Try it you'll like it

Question to the OP. I am assuming you are looking for a more duner friendly powerband over all out high end HP other wise you would have just chosen the shearer dual pipes. So whats with the big ass carbs. I would think 38s and a 2 into 1 pipe arent working toward the same goal. Just curious. I originally ran 39pwks and shearer duals on my CUB when it was a duner and I wished I would have gone CPI and 35s or even 33s i think it would have been easier to tune and much more duner friendly. Doesnt matter now as it only goes straight for short distances anymore.

Hey snop, you may as well add 2 more questions to your list. 1. Do they actually fit without shimming the shit out of evey mounting point and still not hit the fucking head, carb caps and frame all over the place (my inframe shearers fit like refried dog shit.) 2. did they actually put some decent chrome on them that doesnt flake off the welds and rust after a trip to the beach. ( I have 2 sets both shit) I swear if those fuckers didnt run so well on the hot motors, he wouldnt ever sell a set

How long is your swinger, im wondering what the shortest swinger is compatible with oof pipes and this wont happen

A 421 cub with 20 cc domes on 91 octane fuel is a big no no. That motor needs 110. That could very well be the root cause of your problems. I know you said you only rode it 15 min, but the previous owner could very well have cooked it.

open tank - light match- toss it in. Old fuel will be gone in no time. Seriously, i would just pull a line off a carb, drain whatever is left in the tank then pull the petcock out and clean the screens just to make sure and be done.

I agree, i have mine all shimmed the fuck up and they hit everywhere still. rub left carb unless tilted, rub cub cylinder head on left side, and rub both head pipes at the very bottom and the motor mounts. Fuck shearer and their shitty chrome and bad fit, but they do run

I heard it was a pretty small sword though

Tims parts are great, i have purchased a bunch of his stuff. Not sure about his taste in friends or the help he hires.

If you think that beast is violent, you should ride a CUB with shearers. LOL It goes from No power to holy shit in about half a blink of an eye.

You are 100% correct in that you are lucky you live close enough to put your hands on the parts. Bottom line is there are too many stories from guys on here getting junk parts from him. If you can go and see the part and buy it and you are cool with him, then carry on. But i for one wouldnt buy anything unseen from him. My story may seem petty, but so be it. Wether its a 5k motor, or a 10 dollar part, if i buy it i expect it to be as described, i dont care how many parts he sells. I have purchased well over 5k in used parts from members on here. I am very fast to give good feedback to those that deserve it, and just as fast to give the bad if it is deserved.