BellicoseBanshee

If you have 34mm PJ carbs and want to upgrade, I would go with Keihin PWK carbs. They are much easier to tune, and the choke is not integrated with the idle adjustment like the PJs. PWKs are just better...

Word. :thumbsup:

This is according to Cascade when I looked into buying one: The Dyna has four standard curves. Curve 4 is the same as stock and 1-3 are more aggressive than stock. Mike told me it is fine to advance the timing plate to +4 as long as I did not use curve 3. Using a timing plate at +4 and the Dyna on curve 4 is the same as +4 with the stock CDI. However, using a timing plate at +4 and curves 1,2, or 3 is NOT the same as stock. Travis (Bigboybanshee) posted the curves on here a while ago, I will post them when I find them...

Make sure your gas cap vent is not plugged..

You are right, you did say the left side is smoking, sorry... I guess I am getting old...

Try Cascade Innovations or F.A.S.T... www.cascadeinnovation.com www.farmandsandtoys.com

The timing plate is a static change, where the Dyna changes the timing as the RPMs change.

If the right cylinder is smoking excessively, it is a sign that the PTO crank seal is failing, for the engine will pull gear oil into the crank cavity and then burn it. The few times I have seen an engine burning oil due to a bad seal, it was very obvious because the smoke had a very distinct "burnt gear oil" smell.

I sent you a PM...

If it is right side only, your crank seal may be leaking. The smell is very noticeable if it is burning gear oil...

Needles are a fuel metering device. A reasonable state of tune is going to give you the best performance, not changing the needles for more bottom end... You definitely want the needles that correct any jetting issues you may be/are experiencing. If I can remember correctly, the standard needle for the 28PWK is an N68A. I know many people like the JJH needles. I don't think needles other than the ones that deliver proper jetting is going to give a performance gain.

Do the shift star, F.A.S.T. shift shaft, and the shift cam bearing modification.

Leak Down Test :thumbsup:

There is an advantage to running a three piece billet stator cover. I will let you figure it out on your own...

If the right side is burning gear oil, you will smell a noticeable difference, and the smoke will be white. There is only one way to change a crank seal: split the cases... :ermm: The seal is easy to change and the cases are easy to split, it is just time and some new gaskets.

Sure it did. It gave every banshee owner who could not build or assemble a decent engine a little hope for more speed and power... Just like the Graydon Proline finned head attachment was the ultimate fix all for overheating. :yelrotflmao: The banshee has been around for a long time, if boost bottles worked that fact would have been proven by now.

:wallbash: At least you can say it is torqued using foot pounds. Manual does say 14 ft/lbs. :thumbsup: That is great! :woot:

The one for TORS?

Some members of the forum need a fresh box.

That makes sense. :thumbsup:

Stock carbs are 26mm... :ermm:

I know he has an eBay store, and he is on this site as well. Contact: Chariot Performance

They remind me of the old school FMF pipes... DG = Dollar General

Ricky Stator products have been in the toilet lately. Does the RS plate work? Yes. Is it worth the extra $15 to get a Chariot Performance billet plate? Yes.