BellicoseBanshee

It was always fun to send the new guy around the jet engine shop looking for K9-P... You gotta love rooks! :woot:

If you really want to go fast, throw a big chunk of powdered aluminum in your exhaust with some ammonium perchlorate... Side note: True or False- One of the Hindenburg's fuel cells exploded, causing a chain reaction fire? V V V V V V V V V V V V V V V V V V V V False! The structure was covered with fabric coated with dope. Powdered aluminum was added to the dope to help protect the fabric from the sun. Static electricity ignited the powdered aluminum in the dope, causing the fire to spread rapidly and burn out of control. The rest is history...

The author of this ad doesn't sound like an idiot. I would be willing to bet, at least for this 'Tummy' spelling error, that some dumb ass flagged the ad for advertising another brand name with the Yamaha Banshee add (yet Cascade is OK?). Craigslist does not let you link to products/goods or use stock photos, etc., so I would bet using the brand name "Toomey" within another ad is some kind of violation as well... With that said, there are plenty of morons writing some of those ads. :thumbsup:

I much prefer a naphtha-kerosine based fuel for my banshee... Yes, that is a facetious statement...

I always burn kerosine-based fuels in my 250Rs... :shoothead:

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A N down 1-5 duneable override works like a champ in the dunes. WCR cuts a variety of configurations. The website is w-c-r.com if you want to check them out. I don't have a clue what would work for you, but the N1-5 works great in the dunes hillshooting and general riding. Not sure if the neutral down is the best for an MX track. You definitely do not want a standard override, but you would have figured that out quickly anyway. :thumbsup:

I use blue for that application as well, and I have not had any problems with any of the screws backing out...

I agree, I think you answered your own question. There is no doubt they can save a leg or two...

The website is w-c-r.com if you want to do a little research before making the phone call. :thumbsup:

It is probably going to be subject to personal preference. I do not use them and I have no plans to get a set...

Get some exhaust heat wraps from Cascade...

Generally, they are used to keep bigger carburetors away from the clutch arm. Some will say they increase bottom end, but I wouldn't use the spacers based on that claim alone...

I use a 14, and it does not appear that a 15 will fit... I have not tried a larger size yet, though.

It is interesting that they claim to have modified FCR carburetors to work with a two stroke...

Cascade sells a new one for $23.50...

What brand is the basket? I installed a Hinson spring tension basket recently and had the same issue. I spoke with one of the Hinson representatives about that issue, and he told me it is normal. The gap is intended to allow the basket to expand as it reaches operating temperature. My friend has the same basket, same gap, and his is just fine. Now a wobble is a different story... :ermm: EDIT: I would speculate that the stock helical gears prevent the movement or make it less noticeable...

I have only seen one run, and it was not very impressive at all (it could have been set-up poorly). I have heard that they can run well with port work. :ermm:

Do not forget to check the squish clearance when you install the top-end. :thumbsup:

That is an excellent idea! :thumbsup: She knows she wants more power, even if she doesn't know it.

This is a little side step, but since we are talking about Nology coils... The instructions for a Dyna CDI recommend the stock coil. Assuming the stock coil is best for the Dyna CDI, which is a better choice, the Dyna CDI or the Nology coil? I suppose this is a good time to ask whether or not the stock coil is indeed the best coil for the Dyna CDI...

The banshee manual says 10W-30 as well, but an 80 or 85 weight gear oil is just a better choice. 10W-30 will work if you choose to use it (as long as it is wet clutch approved). You also need to watch out for the motor oils with anti-friction additives, for the clutch will slip when those kinds are used. I am sure if you find an oil that is wet clutch approved, you will not have any issues with anti-friction additives. Just read the bottle carefully... The oil capacity is 1500 milliliters. You will need approximately 1.5 quarts of oil.

An 80 or 85 weight gear oil is a much better choice than 10W-30, and as far as the premix, I have never used Yamalube of any kind. For some reason I think TC-W3 has something to do with outboard boat engines.

The first thing you need to do is find out whether or not your cylinders can be ported to match the 4mm stroke. Contact the shop/builder that did the cylinder porting and get the run down before you commit to the build...