BellicoseBanshee

I think that the gears are a wise decision... A friend recently installed straight-cuts, and the gears sound wicked. A very nice whine...

Stock carbs are dinosaurs, that is one reason people upgrade to 28PWKs. A timing plate and head/domes are small increases compared to porting, but people do that all the time.

Just arrived...

Straight-cut gears relieve the axial load on the crank bearing. If you have a TZ bearing, it is a good idea to run striaght-cut gears, for a TZ is not really designed for axial load as it is a needle bearing (supports radial loads) as apposed to a ball bearing (supports radial and axial loads). I have a TZ bearing in my cub, so I opted to install straight-cut gears. The thought of grenading a well-running engine just to save a few hundred dollars was not an option for me. Straight-cut gears come in different ratios as well, which is nice for those wanting to change the primary gearing for different applications such as asphalt racing...

Not a single 28mm, two 28PWKs... :thumbsup:

They are around $30.00...

PJ= older model Keihin carb with an oval slide. Choke knob includes idle adjustment. My mostly stock R has a 34PJ (from the factory) and it is an alright carb. PWK= modern version of the PJ with a D slide. It has a seperate choke and idle screw. Easier to jet, IMO. My banshee has two 35PWKs. PWK A/S= Same as PWK with two guide vanes in the inlet mouth. My modified R has a 38PWK A/S and it works great on that bike. Other than stock banshee carbs and stock LT250R carbs, I have not messed with Mikunis very much. And I have no experience with Lectrons other than what I have read on here. Someone else witll have to do the 'splainin' on those... I would think two 28PWKs would work great for you, but I am not an expert. Are you having problems with the single carb set-up or just wanting a performance gain? The best person to ask is the one who did the port work...

I am the latter of the two, so thank you for the additonal information. I cannot wait to install it.

If you have the right tools, and a few specialty tools (torque wrench, flywheel puller, etc.), the bottom-end is not very complicated. Just take your time and pay attention as you take it apart. You have already done yourself a service by reading the manual... Some guys on here can do it blind-folded...

A cub is more than just buying cylinders, it is a commitment to installing all the accompanying parts that are required to make good use of that kind of power. There is absolutely nothing wrong with dune ported stock cylinders if they are done correctly. You purchased good carbs and exhaust pipes that will work well with ported cylinders. I know of many bikes with ported stock cylinders that all out rip... EDIT: Yeah, what ^ said! :thumbsup:

Hmm, I would have thought the spring did more than that. Well, it is good enough for me. Those cushions make a mess when they grenade.

I purchased the spring tension basket, so what are the benefits the spring tensions offer? I suppose that is a question I should have addressed before buying the basket, but it was $600 compared to $400 for the gears. I figured it was easy to justify the extra $$ without knowing the specific benefits of the springs, other than I have seen the cushions go bad even in a billet basket set-up.

Maybe I am stupid, but what is a baller, lol. I would have much rather purchased something else with that kind of coin, but like loco said above, I will not ever think that I am sitting on a time bomb. Do not want to :nuke: my hard work.

Are you adding the gears to your existing basket? I decided to throw down for the Hinson spring tension basket with the straight-cut gears...

I really debated a long time (well, about ten days anyway) about purchasing straight cut gears. I have much faith in what you and Firehead are saying, but much like Matt, I did not want to take a chance wrecking an engine that I thinks runs very well for one built by someone who does this as a hobby. It is funny, I took this advice before you posted #11 above. :biggrin: Just ordered them...

With a cub banshee, 2 Rs, and a '69 Camaro, I am a day away from divorce papers :woot: (not really, I married a woman, not a girl). The more I spend, the more I need to spend, Hahaha! BTW, every purchase comes with a bigger shovel, effectively increasing the size of the pit. :miner:

If you have a lockout, you will greatly benefit from a duneable override.

I would still pay the $80 for a PD plate rather than buy a $35 Ricky plate... The Chariot plate is only $50 or so, and the marginal difference in price is more than made up for in a higher quality part. Even with the shipping as a factor, I see no need for anyone to buy a low quality part when a better part is available for only $15 more. That is just me though.

I do agree that he needs a longer needle... He says his CEL is too rich, and let's suppose his CGL is too rich also (I really think the CGL will be good). According to the needle chart, a G length needle is the longest. Where should he go next? According to the needle chart, the next block of needles leaner than the C_L needles is the B_L needles. Maybe there are longer C_L needles available that are not listed... Keihin needle chart

Yes, you are correct, I had it switched. The next leaner needle after the CGL is the BEL, which is a change in taper (unless I am still screwing up the chart ).

The modified shift drums are very nice and not very expensive either... :thumbsup:

I would change the diameter before changing the taper. I would try the CGL first...

CGL is the needle I would try next as well. Had some jetting issues with another 421 cub with 35PWKs and just could not get it right with a CEL, switched to a CGL and it cleaned it right up... That duncan article is a good one. :thumbsup:

Sounded very similar, although his was a little more subtle in the early morning. I rode it with the CELs and CGLs, and I definitely noticed a big difference with the CGLs installed in his 35PWKs. It cleaned it up, as I mentioned earlier.

My buddy had a similar problem with his 421 cub. After getting everything else squared away, the CEL was just too rich, and the CGL needle cleaned it up nicely. I would suggest trying the CGL...