BellicoseBanshee

Just get new ones, they are cheap...

That is great, I needed a good laugh today. I will have to remember that one. :laugh:

That is an important seal, split the cases and install the seal the correct way. The crank seal cannot be pressed in from the outside without the risk of damage and distortion. The last person in the world to touch my engine would be a Yamaha dealership mechanic... I would also change them all while it is apart...

3wheelerworld.com, 3wheeler.org, planettrike.com...

I do not think I will ever want anything other than a first generation Camaro, but the new Challengers and Camaros are pretty smooth. I think the new Camaro should have an optional houndstooth interior. :biggrin:

Is it possible to use a circlip/snap ring in place of the bearing retainers? If you are installing two bearing retainers, no wonder your engines are slow, all that extra weight! :woot:

This is exactly how mine was when I disassembled my engine (except I seem to remember a snap ring on the primary shaft instead of a circlip )... Clymer's manual is the same way, and if these are wrong, I guess my engine is destined to grenade. :laugh: The bearing retainers are more of a half snap ring rather than a circlip. The terminology used is not consistent with the nomenclature standards I am aware of. I will concede that the name circlip and snap ring can be used interchangeably since both function exactly the same. BTW: I do this as a hobby, and I am not trying to argue with anybody...

Thank you. :thumbsup:

Clutch side crank bearing and both secondary gear shaft bearings have the bearing clips, and the primary gear shaft has the circlip on the clutch side bearing.

Pretty good, did you post the spider one as well? I might have to try to find it and read it again...

Cascade will have them, any Yamaha dealership has them/can get them, any online parts store with a yamaha microfiche parts finder will have them (like Yamaha of Troy or Ronnie's). I am sure many other places have them as well, no big deal, just time and a little $$$.

My engine is ready for some abuse! :beer:

I push on mine, he does not push on his (at least that is the way he did when we assembled his engine in October, 2007). He did his last assembly without my assistance... Seems to work well for me, clutch is not burned or colored, and the oil does not smell when I change it (too bad, I like the smell of burned clutch oil). Plenty of minor adjustment on the perch as well.

Wes, my friend has the same clutch as you, and he adjusts his the same way bansh-eman does it. On my cub, I have the spring tension basket with stock inner hub, stock pressure plate, stock springs, and a cascade clutch. I adjust it the same way, with one exception: I have to put a little pressure on the arm and it is perfect. The only time the case arrows worked for me was when I had a completely stock clutch...

I concur! :thumbsup: Just like riding a trike in the dunes, as long as you know the machine's limitations and characteristics, you will be fine until you can get an extended swing arm.

Durablue makes the hubs with 4/110 pattern. MagicRacing I am not a Durablue fan, but they make them. I did not check RPM, but if they make them, they will be much better quality. RPM axles are second to none...

Due to the fact that you have been answering many 2 into 1 questions lately, I take it this is a comparison between a 2 into 1 set-up and dual carb set-up on the same bike and tester...

Well, it would not be the first time I recieved incorrect information from a DMV representative. I suspect it behoove anyone swapping frames to visit his or her local DMV inspection office and get the information from the source. The good old "DMV information hotline" is a joke. :mad:

I run them on my Rs, and they hook-up really well. I run them backwards and really like them in the sand for recreational riding where there are no step hills. :cool: I have only used knobbies and paddles on my banshee, so I cannot tell you if they work as well on it...

As long as you are not riding where the tires may puncture, you should be fine. There is a lot of space between the ribs compared to knobbies. :thumbsup:

Of the three, the Pro Wedge II are the best. I have used them for sandy trail riding in the past, but they will wear fast on harder/rocky surfaces and the paddles may rip as well. They are a two-ply tire and may puncture easily. I would not recommend them for anything but snow and sand, racing the exception of course.

I used the same cable when I switched from stock to 35PWKs... EDIT: I did not have TORS when I switched to the 35PWKs

You should have taken the brand new frame and the receipt down to DMV immediately to have it stamped. I would imagine the same process can be done now, it just might be more of a pain considering the bike is now assembled and has been ridden. I guess it depends how anal your local DMV is. It may vary from state to state as well...

Is the frame a factory replacement frame? As far as I know, like new cases, new frames from the factory do not come with a VIN, but like BigRed said, the DMV in your state may have given it a birth day and stamped/tagged the frame. When I registered my custom-made trailer, I had to get it stamped with a VIN at DMV...

What does the title say?