BellicoseBanshee

Every time I have needed OEM parts, Cascade or F.A.S.T. has had what I have needed. It does suck to pay shipping on stupid little BS parts sometimes, but usually I plan ahead and make one purchase to make it worth my while. I also keep extra clutch washers, adjust bolt washers, etc. just in case... Dealerships =

Ding! Ding! Ding! We have a winner! Looks like a kicker gear without the bushing...

:thumbsup:

I just wrap the bacon around my pistons... no need to mix anything with fuel now...

loc, you need to sell the wife and keep the bikes.

Haven't you seen a shift shaft before?

That makes more sense...

I am not trying to be an ass, but shouldn't that have been discussed before the work was done? What is the customer expecting to pay? I guess I am just surprised the engine's owner did not ask about the cost before agreeing to the work...

I agree... Even with the bottom end adjusted correctly and within operating specifications, some just will not shift under load...

I am going to throw HJR in the ring... I buy from Cascade, F.A.S.T., and HJR. :thumbsup:

Stock is 64.00... What happened?

Yes, you will not have a sixth gear. All you need to do is change your gear ratio to make the 1-5 equivalent to 2-6 on a normal transmission...

Here is the website. If this is the same number you have tried, then I do not know of any other way... WCR

If you are riding at 5000' most of the time, you should bump the compression just to make up for the high altitude. You can run much smaller domes than stock size in a head at that elevation and still use pump gas. Bumping the timing to +4 will help out a lot as well. Unless you port those jugs, don't waste money on VF3 reeds. Stock jugs with stock porting and stock carbs do not flow enough to warrant VF3s even with CPIs, Just get some quality after-market reeds for the stock cages. A nice billet timing plate and shaving the stock head is a good starting point if you want to save some coin. Just remember though, porting is when the real power is at...

Here are the charts if anyone is interested. Top is standard Dyna and bottom is stock CDI...

I have an HJR override as well. Worth the coin. :cool:

At this point, I will never go back to a stock transmission. Neutral down is a very nice feature as well. I love my N1-5... :thumbsup:

With a duneable, you do not need to come to a complete stop to downshift...

I am pretty sure Keihins cannot be changed back...

I am pretty sure it is 90mm you will want...

Are you talking about the pin that is suppose to keep the outer race from spinning in the case? I just installed an override, and there where no pins on my crank bearings. I do have a TZ bearing on the power side, so I don't know if a standard bearing would/should have one. If the cases closed, I would think that either it is not there, or it is in the recess (unless you forced the cases together, creating your own recess :biggrin: ).

Ideally, you want a little free-play in the throttle. If the throttle has no play, it is possible the throttle will move when the bars are turned, mostly if the cable is not routed correctly. Now, can the idle be adjusted with the cable or the carb cap crews without experiencing any problems? Yes, I just think it should be adjusted the correct way. Idle screws for the idle, cap screws for the slides, and cable adjuster for throttle free-play. Stock carbs are cheap, and I would bet many people have a set lying around collecting dust (I know I do). If you are not wanting to install idle screws in your carbs, you can probably get a set of stockers already modified pretty cheap. Installing an idle screw kit is very easy and inexpensive, so to me, it is worth the time and money to do it right.

It is not a good idea to adjust the idle with the throttle cable...

0.009434716155648 barrels (petroleum) (bbl, bo) :thumbsup:

When the shafts are free-floating in the cases, the gears may hit each other. You need to make sure the shafts are positioned as they will be when the sprocket nut and clutch basket are installed. If it still binds when the shafts are positioned correctly, you have a problem. Make sure the bearings have the clips on them as well. If it is still binding, you may need to disassemble the shafts and check the spacers and clips between some of the gears. It is easy to do. Also check the shift forks and make sure they are serviceable...