BellicoseBanshee

New pipes, chrome, silencers, and clamps will cost about $1,000 with shipping. PT Midrange PT High Rev From Duncan Racing, the whole deal is big bucks... :laugh:

First off, the factory jetting is not always correct. The factory oil ratio is 24:1. You are running 40:1, which will richen the jetting. Sounds like everything else is as it is supposed to be, so I would plug chop the mains. When the main jets are as they should be, then start working the needle. When the needle is correct, then you can make final air screw adjustments (which they should be with stock exhaust). I would go with BR8ES plugs as well. How are you setting the air screws? This is how to do it: Turning the air screw clockwise reduces the amount of air and turning the air screw counter-clockwise increases the amount of air in the pilot system. Warm up your engine, then adjust the idle slightly higher than normal. Turn the airscrews in until they seat and then back them 1/4 turn and let the engine stabilize. Keep turning the airscrews out a 1/4 turn at a time, allowing the engine time to stabilize between changes, until the engine reaches its highest RPM. The air screws should be between 1 and 2-2.5 turns out. If the highest RPM is less than 1 turn (lean), install a larger pilot jet. If the highest RPM is more than 2-2.5 turns out (rich), install a smaller pilot. If you are going to spend time jetting your bike, might as well throw an exhasut system on, timing plate, filter(s), and Noss head (or shave the stock head)! :biggrin: Also, if you have not done so, make sure the carbs are clean, and all the passages are not plugged after installing the idle screws... THIS link has some good information about jetting. It covers Keihin carbs, but the concepts are still the same for Mikuni.

The hole in the slide is an air passage. It lets air move to the top of the slide as the slide is traveling down, preventing a vacuum effect... I am not sure if the slide operates any different with the hole blocked or not, but the is why the hole is there. :laugh: I don't think your jetting will change if the hole is blocked or not...

The holder plate (bracket) should not cover the hole... :thumbsup:

Bump! :cool:

Bump! :biggrin:

Bump! :thumbsup:

:ohmy: I would like to see the other one as well...

I have seen an idle screw kit (idle screws, drill, and tap) somewhere for about $25, might have been Toomey's website. Not sure about individual screws though...

I agree...

What kind of service?

Are they ported for a 4mil crank? I am only asking because banshee1856 wants to go with a 4mil, and sometimes stock cylinders ported for a stock stroke cannot be ported again for a 4mil... :ermm: FAST ported cylinders will make someone very happy! :biggrin:

FUEL COCK ASSY 1 (U49) 2GU-24500-02-00 (replaces 2GU-24500-01-00) Yamaha of Troy

Yeah, what he said. :biggrin: Never mind, found it: Dune Fest 2008

Somewhere around $300-500, but I am not certain... It would be best to call around and find out from the source. Maybe someone else has just had some cylinders ported and can provide a more accurate price. And if you are wanting to know who does the best work, you will get many different answers, for many different builders do excellent port work. I would start with Herr Jugs Racing, but do some searching around until you find someone who can meet your needs, price, and time line.

It will be worth your while to port the cylinders... :thumbsup:

Is it for sale yet??? :yelrotflmao: I know, you don't have to say it... I spent the $80 or so on a billet plate just because I refused to give them any money. I heard and read too many stories like this one. :verymad: I as well will only use the OEM stator until/if something better comes along.

Wooo-wooo-wooo, why it certainly does, nyuk-nyuk-nyuk...

I know, I know... I am already digging deap this summer. It would be hot, though! :thumbsup:

BUMP! :biggrin:

I am thinking about that swinger... BUMP! :cool:

Make sure the threads are clean and free of any corrosion. Lubricate the threads. Screw the puller into the flywheel (left-hand thread) as far as it will go and snug it, do not smoke it on. Use the flywheel holding tool to hold the flywheel while you screw the bolt (right-hand thread) into the puller which pushes the flywheel away from the crank. It should not be very hard to remove... My explanation might not be the best, sorry. I can only speculate that your flywheel is rusty and/or damaged, or it was installed incorrectly if you rendered two pullers unserviceable...

I see you sold your drag bike, I don't think I even saw a picture of it. Was it complete when you sold it? Oh well, my loss... Wondering if anyone else made it to page 11... :ermm:

That is funny... :woot:

UPS delivered my friend's brand new Shearer pipes five doors down. Luckily, the guy was nice enough to deliver them to my friend the same evening...