BellicoseBanshee

Kevin Herr offers some kind of piston work on his site. It is called 'piston lighten and cut.' I believe he has a link in his signature that has pictures of what he does to the pistons. EDIT: HERE it is. And THIS...

BUMP...

:woot:

It has been a couple of days, and you may have solved the problem. If not, do you need rear exhaust hangers with those silencers? What did Cascade have to say about it? :ermm:

I think you will be happy with a billet plate. I know I am, it was worth the $80 I spent on a Pro Design. I believe the Chariot Racing (?) plate is a little less expensive. :thumbsup:

Your model year might not have the parking brake switch. If it does, it is on the clutch perch. The switch has a connector behind the radiator and is wired directly to the CDI. It has nothing to do with TORS... If applicable, disconnect the switch behind the radiator and then buy a new clutch perch to get rid of all the junk. The CDI will not let the engine rev much past idle when the parking brake is set.

F.A.S.T. pancake bearing... :thumbsup:

This is how to set the air screws: Turning the air screw clockwise reduces the amount of air and turning the air screw counter-clockwise increases the amount of air in the pilot system. Warm up your engine, then adjust the idle slightly higher than normal. Turn the airscrews in until they seat and then back them 1/4 turn and let the engine stabilize. Keep turning the airscrews out a 1/4 turn at a time, allowing the engine time to stabilize between changes, until the engine reaches its highest RPM. The air screws should be between 1 and 2-2.5 turns out. If the highest RPM is less than 1 turn (lean), install a larger pilot jet. If the highest RPM is more than 2-2.5 turns out (rich), install a smaller pilot. I always verify the main jets are still correct before working a jetting problem, even if it is a mid or bottom-end jetting issue (unless making minor adjustments). Once the main is correct, I adjust the needle. When the needle is correct, then I make a final adjustment on the iar screws and then set the idle. Changes in fuel/oil ratio: Whenever you decrease the amount of oil in the fuel/oil mixture, it increases the amount of fuel in the fuel/air mixture. A rich or lean jetting condition is not determined by the amount of oil mixed with the gas, but determined by the amount of fuel mixed with the air coming in. If the engine is jetted incorrectly, cutting the oil in the mixture may improve performance, but a bike canbe jetted to run well mixed at 50:1 or it can be jetted to run well mixed at 20:1. It is all in the jetting... I am not a jetting expert, and without actually riding the machine, I can only offer the techniques that I use when correcting a jetting issue. I would start with the mains, then go to the needle, then finalize the air screw. If the problem persists with reasonable changes in jetting, then I would look at something else. Keihin Jetting Tips Jetting FAQ Plug Chop Good Luck! :beer:

That probably means November... :ermm:

Your eyes will be as big as dinner plates the first time you ride it... :woot:

Bump!

That is the can of 'leftover' parts after the build. Screw here, bearing there, who needs all of them, most will suffice. :woot:

I used an aluminum rear sprocket once, it was great, just wore much faster in the sand. Had no issues with the teeth breaking though...

A lockout clutch is used on higher powered engines to prevent the clutch from slipping and burning up. I am not sure exactly how much power warrants the need for a lockout, but a piped banshee with basic bolt-on parts should not need anything more than a heavy-duty clutch at most. I would not waste money on a lockout unless the engine requires one. A FAST clutch, for example, will take a pounding and will only cost about $100.00. The ~$50 Tusk HD clutches are decent as well.

The shift drum could be worn, damaged or worn shift fork, damaged gears, shift mechanism out of adjustment. Could be minor or major. These are not the best shifting bikes anyway... I would try inspecting the shift mechanism first, and go from there... If you have a manual, it is explained, with good pictures and illustrations, at the end of chapter 5 (Engine Lower End) and chapter 6 (Clutch, etc.). I have only done it with the clutch assembly removed. If it can be done with the clutch installed, I would suspect it would be difficult to do, because the idler gear is in the way. The shift shaft has a plate on the end of it, with a window, and two spring ends in the window. The adjust bolt sits between the spring ends in the window. When the adjust bolt is turned, it moves the end of the shift shaft plate up and down. The shift shaft plate has another small plate with a hook on each end, and the hooks turn the shift drum using the pins on the shaft star. With the transmaission in any gear but neutral, look at the gap between the upper hook and pin and the lower hook and pin. Turn the adjust bolt until the dimensions between both pins and the hooks are equal (as close as you can by eye is fine). That is the best that I can explain it. The adjust bolt has a jam nut and a tabbed lock washer. Pulling the clutch assembly will be your best bet. HERE is a link that discusses a problem similar to yours, good luck.

I would also consider a TZ bearing on the power side, depending on what you are doing to the engine...

Most ATV/motorcycle shops will carry it. :thumbsup:

To The Top!

To The Top!

To The Top!

They will be happy to send you another fine piece of Chinese quality... :yelrotflmao: I wonder if the submarines they are building with our stolen plans will have the same quality control Ricky Stator does... :woot:

I might be wrong, the stator might be fine. I just know if a 'Ricky Stator' stator is less than about two years old, you are more likely to have problems with it than the 'old school' stators (I hear the newer ones are made by our good friends in China)... :sad:

Well, hate so say it, but that could be the problem, and you may already know that. If possible, I would try a serviceable stock stator and see if the problem persists. Might be hard to do while on vacation... Did you mess with the parking brake switch? The switch is wired to the CDI and will not let the engine rev much past idle...

What kind of stator? I am almost afraid to ask... :ermm:

The factory jetting may be close, it may not. I always start with the mains, and work my way down. If the mains are good, great, you can move on... Whenever you decrease the amount of oil in the fuel/oil mixture, it increases the amount of fuel in the fuel/air mixture. A rich or lean jetting condition is not determined by the amount of oil mixed with the gas, but determined by the amount of fuel mixed with the air coming in. If the engine is jetted incorrectly, cutting the oil in the mixture may improve performance, but a bike canbe jetted to run well mixed at 50:1 or it can be jetted to run well mixed at 20:1. It is all in the jetting... I am not a jetting expert, and without actually riding the machine, I can only offer the techniques that I use when correcting a jetting issue. Maybe the bogging has nothing to do with jetting, but if it were my bike, I would start with the mains, then go to the needle, then finalize the air screw. If the bog persists with reasonable changes in jetting, then I would look at something else. I am just giving advice, and could be wrong, but in my many years of experience with jetting LT250Rs, ATC250Rs, stock and ported Banshees, and Cub Banshees, the method I mentioned above has work well for me... Good Luck! :beer: EDIT: I do not use the above method when making minor changes on a good running bike, only when a problem persists...