BellicoseBanshee

This is a very useful link... :geek: I agree, 1/2 turn means larger pilot is needed. You will be happy with the carbs when the air screw is between 1 and 2 turns out...

Buy a billet timing plate and bump the timing to +4... :thumbsup:

I don't know why, but I can ride a dirt bike with twist all day, no problem. On ATVs, I just do not like it. So, I suppose it depends which you prefer. Many people use a twist with no issues...

Which banshee, the white one? :ohmy:

Advanced timing may change fuel requirements as well, depending on compression...

The 4-stroke boom is bringing a lot of attention to the dunes and other riding areas. And some of the $$$ we spend on stickers and fees is used to close the areas down. Gotta love it... :shoothead:

That makes sense. :thumbsup: To the top... :cool:

Take a look at this. :thumbsup: A little hard to read, sorry.

Nothing like that on my case, not even the little holes/dimples to the rear of the large hole. Doesn't look like a piece broke off, it looks like a hole was drilled, as metioned. All three look like drill holes/marks. Maybe the clutch arm was frozen in the past, and someone drilled the hole to work the arm out... :ermm:

Was the CX7 paid for? If so, seems kind of bass ackwards to pick up a car payment to save gas...

Call Sudco or CPW. www.sudco.com www.carbparts.com Not sure if F.A.S.T. sells replacement parts, but you may want to try Jeff first, a site sponsor. Click Me

You need an actual airscrew and the spring that goes with it, for it is a metering device. I have never heard of an airscrew falling out of a carburetor before...

I would adjust it correctly... :ermm:

I was proud to wear the unifrom, and I could not be more honored to be associated with an amazing group of men and women who are serving and have served to keep this country free for me, my family, and all the citizens of this great country!!

Changing the fuel/oil ratio does affect the fuel/air ratio. The main jet, for instance, meters a certain volume of fuel per time. If the fuel/oil mixture has less oil per volume, then more fuel per volume is mixed with air causing a richer fuel/air mixture. Switching from 36:1 to 32:1 will not make much of a difference, but switching from 36:1 to 20:1 would.

It really is very simple to do. Just put a broom handle or similar inside the carb to keep the drill bit from contacting the opposite wall. Tapping is easy, you will be fine as long as you follow proper tapping procedures and use tapping oil. Be sure to clean the carb well and use compressed air to help remove the filings. As with anything, I am sure someone has screwed it up, but time and common sense will most likely lead to success.

I do not recall ever seeing Keihin needles numbered like that. I have only seen them marked CEG, etc...

I have only heard of the screw problem as well. Either way, I am glad I went with the billet plate...

Turning the air screw clockwise reduces the amount of air and turning the air screw counter-clockwise increases the amount of air in the pilot system. Warm up your engine, then adjust the idle slightly higher than normal. Turn the airscrews in until they seat and then back them 1/4 turn and let the engine stabilize. Keep turning the airscrews out a 1/4 turn at a time, allowing the engine time to stabilize between changes, until the engine reaches its highest RPM. The air screws should be between 1 and 2-2.5 turns out. If the highest RPM is less than 1 turn (lean), install a larger pilot jet. If the highest RPM is more than 2-2.5 turns out (rich), install a smaller pilot. :thumbsup:

Makes three of us. I just laugh and roll my eyes when people change the oil mixture to solve jetting issues as well...

Turning the air screw clockwise reduces the amount of air and turning the air screw counter-clockwise increases the amount of air in the pilot system. Warm up your engine, then adjust the idle slightly higher than normal. Turn the airscrews in until they seat and then back them 1/4 turn and let the engine stabilize. Keep turning the airscrews out a 1/4 turn at a time, allowing the engine time to stabilize between changes, until the engine reaches its highest RPM. The air screws should be between 1 and 2-2.5 turns out. If the highest RPM is less than 1 turn (lean), install a larger pilot jet. If the highest RPM is more than 2-2.5 turns out (rich), install a smaller pilot. No need to guess... :thumbsup:

F.A.S.T. (Noss Machine) head is a high quality part. No one can guarentee that it will not leak. Proper installation will greatly minimize the chances of it leaking.

Who did the work? I am very curious to know...

Are you looking for a good tire/wheel combo? I was under the impression that you are wanting the particular wheel specified in your question to mount mohawks onto... I would choose the Skat-Trak as well, even though the others may be cheaper in price...

I would just do the 4mil, many times a cylinder ported for stock stroke cannot be ported again to work with the 4mil crank. Kevin Herr will be able to give you all the details with his porting for both stock and 4mil. I would just do the 4mil now and let it rip. I understand the pain of tearing into a good running engine as well, but the 4mil with a nice port will help with that 'fo sho!'