BellicoseBanshee

THIS has some info on pulling and installing a flywheel (about half-way down), and it discusses the +4 key. I have not read it for a while, so I hope it contains the information I think it does...

CRABS? :ohmy: This is the wrong forum for that kind of thing!!! Sorry to mess with you, but the crab thing was just too funny... :biggrin:

I am just waiting for the 'TR6 pipes won't work with porting' argument to start. I, for one, am anxious to here how well it runs! Maybe that argument can be put to bed, for you are the only one I know of who is going to run TR6 pipes with a nice port job... As far as the carburetors, I would think the person who did the port work would know which size is best. I am not sure how larger carburetors will work with the air box boots...

PWK slide and carburetor: PJ slide and carburetor: PWK link PJ link

I hope it went to a good home... :thumbsup:

Some of us get it... And you can bet many eyes watch these boards, not just ATV enthusiasts. Word. :thumbsup: EDIT: Unfortunately, the ones who want to squash ATVing will always side with law enforcement, right or wrong. We get hammered either way...

I knew Trinity had that picture on the web, but I would never use one on my bike and have no other pictures. Sorry... :ermm:

It looks like this...

Sure we do, calibrated elbow... :woot:

This is the wrong forum for that... :biggrin:

It allows the engine to rev faster, and it also lets it spool down faster. Patriot Racing's website says "this mod is not for our heavier riders." Not sure what they consider a 'heavier' rider... According to their websites, Flotek Performance and Patriot Racing provide that service. I am sure many others do it as well, and maybe a local machine shop can do it as well...

TORS is a safety feature that, when functioning correctly, kills the engine when a stuck throttle condition is detected. The system has a control unit, two carburetor switches, and a throttle switch. Disconnecting the switches and the control unit eliminates the electrical portion and the 'TORS Elimination Kit' is used to replace the carburetor switch boxes and provide a means to adjust the idle. The kit contains caps, idle screws, and throttle cable. I never had any issues with my system malfunctioning before I removed it form my bike, but many people attribute some electrical problems to the TORS system. Bottom line, if you maintain your throttle system, TORS is really not necessary. If/when you upgrade to bigger/different carbs, the system cannot be used anyways... :woot: Stock carbs + TORS = safe Big motor + big carbs + no TORS = safe and less junk in the way

I think the 4 mm is the way to go as well...

Call around and talk to some builders about porting...

The Graham Bell book is top-notch. For me, spending $30-40 on a real book was a better alternative than download a PDF someone scanned into a computer. :ermm:

The parking brake switch is wired directly to the CDI and has nothing to do with TORS. Disconnect the switch (connection is located between the fuel tank and the radiator) and see if that solves the problem...

Timing as well... If the timing is stock, premium pump gas should be safe to 160-165 psi. If the compression is over 150-155 psi and the timing is +4, mix 20% to 50% race gas with premium pump gas just to be on the safe side.

The caliper needs to be repaired... :ermm:

I guess temptation is more than some can bear. :woot:

First of all, I don't think you understand how the circuits work in the carburetor. Main jet: The main jet controls fuel from about 3/4 throttle to WOT. When the throttle is opened far enough, the needle is pulled far enough out to allow the main jet to regulate fuel flow. Jet needle: The jet needle (the needle) controls fuel flow from about 1/8 throttle to 3/4 throttle. Most of the tuning is done with the jet needle and not the needle jet. Needle jet: The needle jet is the hole the needle slides into. the needle jet and jet needle work together to regulate fuel flow. Most of the time, adjusting/changing the jet needle is sufficient to tune the affect range. Slide valve: The slide valve controls fuel from about 1/8 through 1/2 throttle (greatest affect on 1/8-1/4). The cut away determines the size of the slide. Usually not necessary to change this. Pilot jet: The pilot jets works with the air screw to regulate fuel at low throttle settings, about 0-1/4 throttle. Each circuit is adjusted independently and they overlap at times provide proper jetting at all throttle positions. It is best to adjust one circuit at a time and I prefer to start with the mains and work my way down to the pilot. AIR SCREW: Warm up your engine, then adjust the idle slightly higher than normal. Turn the airscrews in until they seat and then back them 1/4 turn and let the engine stabilize. Keep turning the airscrews out a 1/4 turn at a time, allowing the engine time to stabilize between changes, until the engine reaches its highest RPM. The air screws should be between 1 and 2-2.5 turns out. If the highest RPM is less than 1 turn (lean), install a larger pilot jet. If the highest RPM is more than 2-2.5 turns out (rich), install a smaller pilot. If I were you, I would verify the pick-up is gapped correctly, then start with the mains and work your way down to the needle, then finish with the pilot. It can be time consuming, but worth the effort in the end. Also, make one change at a time while troubleshooting a jetting issue, for it will make the process much easier. DISCLAIMER: I am not a jetting expert, I only know what works well for me...

Bump...

Detonation... Do not buy a spark plug lock to solve this problem. EDIT: Just read that a little closer, the tip just needs to be tightened down before the plug is installed. They tend to back off if not tightened before the plug is installed. Detonation will cause the plug to back, sorry, it is getting late...

That is a very good book... :thumbsup:

Bump...

That is what I was thinking as well, the man does good work...