Shawn G

Thanks for the response. Everything is pretty well-maintained, so I'm going to check the pipes. If that doesn't improve the power, I guess I'll just have to cut back on the carne asada burritos.

My Banshee is now 10 years old, with the Bill's pipes being on since day one. My question is...is it possible for carbon to have built up in the pipes and restrict the exhaust flow? Silencers have been repacked. The bike runs strong, but just feels like I'm not getting as much pull as I once did (the exhaust note has even changed over the years). Mods and maintenance should have me running better than before, not worse??????

Give the puller a whack when tight to the flywheel? I thought I read in my Clymers that a hard shot to the flywheel could destroy the magnetism?????

Any advice for when the flywheel WON'T come off? I bought the puller and an adjustable timing plate from Ricky Stator, but the flywheel won't budge. So now my wife's the lucky one who'll get to try out the +4 advance, because wouldn't you know it...her's came right off!

Cool. Thanks alot. I'll give them a try.

I'm always changing tires between sand and rock trips, and am sick of replacing stripped wheel studs. Does anyone know of a good alternative to the factory ones that I buy from the dealer? Maybe ones that are a little longer too.

Would a rewind even get me the necessary juice I need to run the (2) 55 watt bulb setup I'm looking to run? If not, what are my options?

Does anybody rewind their stock stators? I want to run (2) 55w bulbs, and I hate replacing stock parts that have worked perfectly for 10 years with aftermarket stuff that may or may not work ALL THE TIME. I've also heard a lot of negative things about Ricky Stator stators and was just wondering if I'd be better off having my stocker rewound. What do you think?

Eibach spring.

I got a good deal at Alba (a friend used to work there), otherwise I probably would have went elsewhere. I've noticed that Golden West Cycle/Cycle Parts West usually advertises package deals on the Laeger & Elka combos. Dirt Wheels or any other quad magazine will give you lots of options. I had my rear shock done about a year before the front suspension, and it made a huge difference. Even with a stock front, you can always better your ride using the throttle in certain situations, but only an upgraded rear will get rid of that nasty kick. I took it to Precision Concepts and just told them my weight, riding style, and where I primarily ride. I think I paid about $300 for the new spring, revalve, and seal kit (the seal kit only needs to be done the first time). Now I can revalve the shock on my own should I choose to. Plus, with the rebound and compression adjustments I can fine tune my bike for the rocks or sand.

I ride mostly in Glamis. I bought Laeger LT arms, with Elka Dune Edition shocks w/resis. For the rear, I had Precision concepts revalve my shock and install a new Eibach spring. Suspension is by far the best money you can spend on your bike!

I absolutely love my Laegers. I went with the LT, with Elkas w/resivoirs. My bike is now so comfortable I only wish I would have invested in them years ago.

I had Precision Concepts revalve my rear shock and install a heavier Eibach spring. Works way better! Has anyone tried ditching the linkage in favor of a direct mount? A lot more travel can be had with this setup, and the right spring and valving combo can make for a plush ride in even the deepest whoops. A friend of mine had done this, but he is a lot lighter than I am and when I rode his bike, it was too sloppy for me. It worked very well for him though. I'm seriously considering trying this with some different spring weights, and was hoping those who had done this would reply with they're results.

Hello everyone. I'm new to the site, and from what I've seen, I think it's awesome! These forums are so informative, I only wish I would have found it a long time ago. My question is...When I go to sync the carbs, I should make the adjustment at the front of the TORS box (left carb), so that the slide indicators appear in the viewing windows at the same time, right?? I ask this because while reading some other posts, readers suggested using the the idle screw on the back of the TORS box, which I thought was strictly for idle adjustment. Also, if I've synced the carbs using the indicators (which is the full throttle position), will this necessarily mean that the slides are opening equally from zero throttle on up. If not, could it be that my throttle cable is just too stretched out and I should pick up a new one. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.