volcrano

leave the choke out for a second before u immediately push it back in.maybe its just still too cold my friend.glad u get her running.

jetting is to lean in the power range its bogging.if its down low,get bigger pilot jet-if midrange,raise needle-if top end,put in bigger main jet.pulling the choke adds fuel to the bike so if it likes the fuel,its a little lean.

dude-first off i hope ur not using the old gas in the bike.if stock-get u some 87 octane with 32:1 klotz supertechniplate 2 stroke oil and new plugs.2nd-TORS stands for Throttle OverRide System.that is for if your throttle slide or throttle becomes stuck it should recognize this and go into a "limp mode" or shut down rpms so u can control the bike safely until it can be repaired.sometimes it fails.people remove it cause it can cause alot of headaches.cleaning carbs concerns more than pulling the bowl and shooting shit in there.pull the carbs one at a time off the bike and the bowl-one at a time so u dont mix up bowls or slides-and pull out every jet and needle and seat and clean it!after cleaning put it back together and sync.u can sync the carbs (not perfect but get u in there) by the windows in the carbs.ull notice on the right hand top side of the carbs are a little plastic looking round window.adjust cable and sync by opening throttle till u see dark in the bubble.there is a hole in the slide in the carb and when u open the throttle ull see the hole through the little window.when u see the one hole in the window u should see the other carbs hole in the window in the same spot.if they dont line up adjust accordingly until they do.hope this helped!!!!!!!!!!!!!DO A COMPRESSION TEST!it might have had the dick run off it since the last time u saw it run also!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

yes it has.there are other products of a more industrial strength.i work in paint and body and know about different products.there are very very good 2 part epoxies on the market that might suit your needs.these epoxies are so strong and durable they actually use these epoxies to glue quarter panels on cars with instead of metal weld and have tested stronger than metal weld in crash test.newer cars are actually glued together-(for the most part)instead of weld because of the strength.the 2 best to look into are SEM products and FUSOR products.ill check to see whats not soluble in gas or oil,if they have it.id put money there before jb weld.

agreed-the float bowl with the brass bb looking deal goes to the carb with the choke pull on it.as for the needle and seat-the needle in the slide has nothing to do with ur problem but there is a deal called"needle and seat"in ur carb.when u take the float bowl off,ull see ur floats.take needle nose pliers to the little silver rod that holsa the plastic float on.put the pliers on the skinny end of the rod and the other half of the plier to the part of the body that holds the float and squeeze to loosen the pin.u can also put a punch or a small screwdriver on the pin and tap it to loosen it.i like the plier idea better cuz ive seen the pin stuck and people break the part of the carb that holds the float on by tapping it.anyway.pull the pin and the float will come off.be careful to no loose the "needle"which is the little metal piece that has the rubber tip at the end.clean the hole that the "needle"goes in.this is where ur fuel enters the carb.if that rubber tip gets stuck in the seat-fuel will not enter the bowl-therefore no start.clean that out,put the float and pin back in andmake sure the pin is tight against the little post it came off of.check this with bowl of bu hooking the gas line to that carb and turn it on.gas should pour everywhere so do it quick.if gas flows ur good.u can check to make sure the seat is clean too by picking up on the float to shut fuel off.so-check the bowls to see if they are on the right carb,and clean the carbs needle and seats and then make sure u have good flow,no kinks and as straight a shot as possible for the fuel line from tank to carb.should fix ur shit bro..not really much else to hold fuel back unless u have no compression which i highly doubt.good luck and keep us posted.

has nothing to do with the post but 98 shee ur bike is sweet.im doing the same scheme with plastics and blue frame in a month.very nice

ugh.ok-again,bogus information.your needles have nothing to do with idle at start.it is the pilot system that can change idle but is for air/fuel mix.to get the bike to idle is simple.adjust the damn idle screws or adjust your cable at the throttle box.the throttle slide has to raise slightly to allow air to enter the body to mix with the fuel to rev the engine.thats why idle screws raise the slides from a all the way closed position.so once again-needle clips have nothing to do with it.

uh dude-i dont think u got the point here.hes poking fun and its hilarious.what props are u giving urself saying that ur fine tuned machine would beat a cub that ran like a plug was out of it.ID SURE AS HELL HOPE SO!!!!!!!the only way u can state it right is your port and all the goods can beat a cub setup too and tuned as well as ur stock cylinder.can u make that claim???or claim that u can be close???i got a ported 4mil with the same bolt ons and compression as my buddies unported 421 and i could pull him by 1 bike when i had my cpis and 34mms.if he was ported my ass would have been toast-that bitch just grunts upon throttle.put up some numbers on dyno or something.prove here that u have a good product,the talking isnt going well,and i wont bash u because i have no reason to.im sure u do do good work.id like to see what u guys have to offer before spending money without proof of quality since these claims of beating shitty running cubs..

wtf?re-jetting it isnt going to do anything but waste alot of time!!!!!y does he have to move the clip to the center and hold the throttle open?is the needle not gonna move on the clip its at when the throttle is opened???

X2!!!!!!!!!if you have fuel coming out of ue fuel lines your needle and seat are stuck for sure.check the routing of ur fuel lines like if its running up hill to clear a shitty boost bottle.make it as straight to the carbs from the tank as possible.well thats good news-it runs and u know its just a fuel issue.that oughta help u breathe a sigh!!!!!!

running less oil which u are with the 40:1 will richen your air/fuel ratio slightly,wont be enough to make u worry.it cant hurt in these temps as its colder but when you do run less oil,there is a little less lubrication.use a good oil for ur mix-i like klotz supertechniplate esp. if u are running less oil.u would be wise to put bigger jets in and if u havent done that for the temp. change for winter,just changing the oil ratio to gas is not going to be enough to keep piece of mind.its a coin flip of running lean.hopefully u richened mains bro-i see ur in MD.

damn if u were close to ohio id be on it like stink on shit.great price!!!!!!!!!!!

yo tyler-i dunno if u ever had white with blue lettering-i wanted one of the hoodies but i need xxxl and they all went quick!!!!ok-how about doing banshee schemes to go along with the website.random color schemes from 87 shees till now.yami blue with white letters,white with red letters,maybe for the boys chicks or fellow female shee riders the purple with yellow lettering.shit i dont know what other old school schemes the shees had but u know where im going.im not missing another chance on these bitches!!!!!!!

eat it lol.i must have to go to sylvan learning center for math.i was unaware 13.2 is the same as 12.6.interesting watson.

negative captain.ive had a setup for drag with cpis and 34mms and it sucked for me.i ride woods only and had a hp setup but totally 180 from what i wanted.the dune and pcs are an ass kicker in the woods.

obviously u dont care about spelling "frome".gurt b. frome.lol.either the listing changed or something but i saw nowhere on their ebay page claiming stock cyl. to beat a cub.they did claim mid 70's hp for $200.i havent seen their company internet website though.whatever-i dont care.

get the fuck outta here.do u have a 16 tooth front and rear with 25 inch tires.highly doubt it.

good choice in pipes bro.id say to get u started in this ohio weather and temps-27.5 pilot,needle in the middle and 310 main.it might be a lil rich but might be real close.the richer the better.my buds bike has similar mods and hes at 310.cant hurt-its fucking 10 degrees.if u want a few get 290,300,310.use the 310 tho-run the bike,get it to temp and check plug after bout 10 mins of riding-20 if you are using new plugs.if u look a little wet,take just the snorkel off the air box lid to let more air in.do another run.if still wet,pull ur lid and test again,unless u want to leave ur airbox on for good,then rejet down one size at a time,going to the 300 and so on so forth.id think youll be pretty close with 310 tho.

yo fellas-the title speaks for itself.really dont wanna go over $300.let me know.

the bowl with the brass bb at the bottom goes on the carb with the choke pull lever.the choke tube is the little piece of fuel line/vacuum hose that connects the two carbs together so when u choke the left-it chokes the right.check to see if u have spark!!!!!!put a known firing plug in ur spark plug cap and lay it on the head.if u have spark and u know ur motor is tight-u have a fuel issue.i hope u got spark and are just missing ur choke tube-easy fixes are nice.

it will be fine with 20ccs.

how long are u running the bike before you look at ur plugs?are you getting it hot and unloaded??if u let it idle for a while ur plugs will most likely be wet.are u sure ur pilots are clean??

proper timing will add horsepower-not sure how much unless u get into big mods and alot of timing.+4 will give a better low end torqey feel and rev a little quicker but wont rev as high.the cool head will add horsepower across the powerband as u have more compression-being u go with a smaller dome than stock size.i think stock is like 24cc-dont quote me i could be wrong.20ccs will add power for sure.really shouldnt affect jetting,but checking plugs frequently is easy insurance and takes 2 minutes.

dont make the jetting fact the reason ur gonna go one way or another.its not hard to jet,it just takes a little time and patience.the ssts or any pipe really will be similar in jetting.ull probably end up with a 290ish in there regardless of pipe.hell,toomeys recommendations are most likely not spot on anyway,especially if you install reeds.as for reeds-the v3s are the way u want to go if your setting up for top end,they are nice reeds i think.timing plate,get one and try it.like u said,u can always go back to zero if you dont like it-u probably will like it advanced to 4.the cool heads are sweet.u get more cooling and can change domes quickly for more compression.i wouldnt go lower than 20cc domes for 93 pump gas.u can go lower but u get into 50/50 with 110 and 93,and like straight 110 with like 18-17s-i believe.20s are good so if ur with ur buddies and u run out of gas u can use theirs and not worry about race fuel.if money is tight,i would get pipes and head before the reeds-youll make more power with the head instead of the reeds.get the chariot 1 piece head-i have it and it is very nice quality and havent had any o-ring leaks or any issues.as for the bare/plain finish-they definately rust easier.they sell them cheaper because they arent coated.most people will get them powdercoated or take very good care of them.id say wash them real good after every ride and spray em with wd-40 if you are going the plain route.