volcrano

omg seriously!!yes u can!!when u take ur seat and filter off like u already did to check the sync-look at the bottom of the slides.if there is like a half moon cutout facing u-they are fine and in right.if you dont know what im talking about-take the slide completely from the carb body and look at it in ur hand.one side of the slide is flat and the other side has the cutaway.the cutaway needs to be towards the back of the carb.

i didnt say switch the slides-make sure they are in RIGHT!!!if the cutout is not towards the back it will run like shit.seriously-take the 2 minutes to see if its right before you go ape shit.pull the seat and filter and look at the slides.if the bottom of the slides go straight across-thats ur problem-if the cutaway is staring you in the face,they are right and move on.

sounds like the carb slides are in the wrong carb.check em and make sure the cutaway is facing the back of the carb.having them in backwards will cause all of the symptoms ur describing down to the smoking issue.try that-if that isnt it-get a tester and pressurize ur radiator to see if you have a cooland leak.bet its slides tho.good luck!

it is gonna take longer than 20 minutes.you need to do the proper heat cycles for a new top end to break it in correctly.also-dont try and tune or adjust until it has been fully broke in,ur just chasing ur tail.the rings arent seated fully yet and ur getting blow by.it shouldnt take much longer to seat if you broke in correctly-id say 30 mins. more of actual ride time.then u can adjustif you need to.just give it a lil throttle to keep her going during this.another thing is-u dont want the bike to not smoke at all-that means u prob. dont have enough oil or jetting is a little lean.plus-it is getting cold out,maybe thats part of it.

if he even took the flywheel off as you dont have to to adjust timing if the plate is already on.did it run bad or just not he same?with ur setup,+4 will increase low end power slightly and increase throttle response,but u will lose top end pull doing this.set it up for ur riding.also,if ur gonna do a 4 mil,u unfortunately have to run a spacer plate now since its ported.call ur builder and see how much he cut-its possible it was a cleanup and he can adjust port timing to the crank stroke.if he can,u can ditch the problem making spacer plate idea and just run the 795 wisecos with cut domes to ur octane preferrence.even if he cant,u can still run ur setup with ur port and run the spacer plate,but it is known to be a spot of problems with compression/vaccum leaks because of the 2/4 gasket shitty setup.as for timing-u might wanna just leave it but i hear there is no difference until u hit 4 degrees or higher.plus with ur setup,u are wasting money with 100 octane.u dont need it for the compression u have-itll actually feel better with 87 with 6.5 to 1 compression.hope this helped.

agreed-are they the washers that go to the "needle jet" bottom?yes u definately need those!!factory crap-gotta love it cuz u gotta have it!lol.hope it gets u in there!

thats exactly where i got it from.bike would have no balls at all and take a downhill to hit powerband.how does it not make sense?when u hold the throttle all the way open with slides backwards-look at em through airbox.1/4 inch of slide hangs in the carb body!!so-yes ive had them backward,and yes-it runs like shit as i said.switched them around and needed a seatbelt to stay on it.

try the 30.its odd tho when u richen it with the choke its worse.its a fine line dude.but if you were 1.5 out with 27.5,maybe you can do a 2-2.5 with 30's.give you a little more room to play.good luck!!!

not slides-if they were backwards the top end would blow a huge ass and go nowhere.try running ur pilot screws in a turn and ride it.if it gets worse turn them 2 out.see if richer or leaner feels better.u might have to go 30 pilot or back to stock.see how it reacts.

yes you do need to jet with mods-i figured the dude had jetted it when pipes were put on to prevent burning the motor up.you can clean ur carbs-it doesnt hurt but a dirty carb isnt going to make it not run right for 5 mins then just run right!i agree-i think that you just didnt have it warmed up yet.dont go by pipe-feel the jugs as its running.when it gets warm you can start ripping.dont rip when its cold!you can sieze a piston as it will expand faster that the sleeve in the jug and lock up on u.i would say u might actually need more fuel on the bottom.aftermarket pipes like at least a 27.5 pilot.with ur airbox drilled u should prob be at a 270ish main depending on location.i was 500 ft,had an open air box and fmfs and had a 290 main.mess with pilot screws as you might not have to change.read sticky in jetting forum on that.make sure to check plugs and eventually do a chop for perfect results.

well u need to replace the pipe o rings and get some silencer clamps that fit.dead in power for first 5 mins sounds wierd.check to make sure emergency brake plunger not pushed in at lever on handlebars.this will limit the rev and it will not reach any power at all.if somebody cut it make sure its not tied together.i just cut mine clean and heat shrink tubed it to get rid of e-brake crapp.if thats not the case,try running your airscrews out to lean the pilots.maybe its fat.y did you rejet it????what jets did you put in and what ones did you replace??yamaha recommends 24:1-but run 32:1 klotz.check plugs,what do they look like?

look up keihin 28 on ebay.dude in thailand has 3 left of unserial numbered (who cares) keihin pwk 28s for $77 ea shipped!$150 for brand spankin pwks is a steal.i bought one since i bought a new serial numbered set and i broke the body on one from breaking plastic idle screw inside.so this is the replacement.look identical and have keihin on them.even if theyre knock-offs the high dollar ones are casted just as shittY.its ridiculous they get $300 for carbs with plastic idle screws and if u break em ur fucked.read my post in jetting forum of my experience.if u get em-dont fuck around-instantly get brass idle screws and be done with it.

well-the screw extractor split the inside and outside of the carb.so i actually had a tear run down my face.i fucked up a brand new carb that ran literally for 3 minutes.im going to the bar...and still have no banshee to ride for the 6th week as it took 4 weeks to get carbs i destroyed in 5 minutes.nice.thanks for the input tho guys-guess lately im meant to get ass pounded.

i know about screw extractors-thing is i dont know if that 1/8 is gonna be small enough.i dont wanna drill a 1/8 hole,for fear of hitting the threads.i might pick one up after work tho since theyre $2.19 lol.thanks for the link bro!!

well for some reason it doesnt want to thread out into the carb body-i was just gonna run it through.it cant be in there that tight.i got some bad ass sem 2 part epoxy-gonna get a small ass allen wrench and wipe some of that shit on there.it fully sets in 5 minutes with a 60 second work time.its super awesome though.if that dont work i just aquired a left hand drill bit to run slowly and see what happens.prob try the bit first so there isnt epoxy i gotta scrape first.thanks fellas-ill let u know if it works tonite.gnr101,u get the mid burble in the cpis fixed??

why in the hell would you put plastic idle screws in a carburetor and how the shit do u get them out when u break them.i havent even ridden this yet with brand new 28 pwks and i broke the fuckin idle screw already.god im so pissed,please help..

i should take a heat gun to them now so they loosen and take form so next time taking them off wont be a chore.

yeah-finally got them.what a slut whore that was.jesus christ-thanks fellas.my skirt has come off on this issue lol.

what up guys-anybody know how to rig up a boot setup or where to get carb to airbox boots that fit the 28 pwks.i see people say the stockers fit but they dont.they are the same diameter as the back of the carb.i tried like hell to squeeze with no success!any help is appreciated-i wanna ride damn it!!!!!!!lol

had them in my bike before my 4mil-dude no shit you could definately feel a power difference.my bike use to get blown by my buddies ported stocker by 6-7 bikes.it was 3 after vitos.they are built like a brick shithouse.get superstocks-made by wiseco.the intakes are huge compared to my stroker pistons!i loved them-wish they made stroker pistons with cut out.i dont even think it would hurt port timing.my buddy cut some wisecos and made the exhaust cutout and it did make a power difference.it was a hillbilly budget build lol.i still got mine,brand new lookin-theyre .20 tho.id recommend all day long.you'll notice a difference.you still cant fuck with an actual port job tho.

agreed.

10mm lol

what up-just got some 28mm pwks.they come stock with 140 mains,jjh needles a 3.5 slide and 45 pilots.where do i start?ive looked around and think that 155 main and 50 pilot is a good place.what do you think?im 500 upbove sea level and mods are as listed below-except for carbs lol.needles okay for now also or do i need others??

i actually was gonna say the opposite.ive learned that the bigger carbs are only good for dragging.seems like u like hills.smaller carbs keep more pressure in cylinders from what ive been told.sounds like its just loading it up.dont know much about ct pipes.what kind of riding do you do?i know my bike acted the same way-i got a agg. trail/dune port with 4 mill and ride woods.had cpis and bogged my nuts off-switched to pro circuit platinums and already 100x better.putting 28mm or stockers back on to rip balls.i had 34mms on my motor.had to ditch that whole carb/pipe set-up.hope this helps.