volcrano

dud i hope you figure it out,for you and me-not trying to be an ass clown but you've listed my shit to a tee.when i climb hills too-im good but when i fall off the pipe its done.my stator looks worse than yours-like it was found at the bottom of a swamp all rusty and shit.it tested okay a while ago-but ive also had parts test bad and be good.i know that sounds retarded but the truth.i almost bought new carbs today (which i prob still should)because i thought my tm's were just un-jettable.please let me know if your problem is fixed after that-im just throwing money and parts to mine and its a faster piece of shit :laugh:

dude i doubt its the motor.do a compression test-if you just built it im sure its fine.i swear to god my bike is doing the exact same shit and sounds the exact same way.im lost too but im running 34tm mikunis and no one here has them it seems.try those needles from cascade-that snopsynski guy seems to be pretty knowledgeable.if i find anything on mine ill let you know bro-were in the same shitter,and its sucks because since my motor was built it has done this!even running shitty tho i pulled an unported 421 cub.good luck.try the needles.

dude im with u.i also had to do that-i went from 270s to 250s,had a 32.5 pilot-im at 25 now and still need less-like 22.5s and i think my needle also needs leaned 1.i just wanted to fuck jetting and ride for once.i adjusted timing from +4 to 0 and top pulls way harder.raced my buddy on his fresh unported 421 cheetah and beat him until i started missing shifts.granted his is unported but i had a woody.i knew i was right going leaner-at top end with 270s that thing would gurgle like crazy.its sweet now-have a slight gurgle at 1/4 throttle but pilots and needle will help that.i appreciate all the help from u guys-u my niggaz lol.

interested in the a arms and shocks-what kind are the a arms and shocks and can u post pics please!

smoke is 2 stroke-it turns out the studs wet from bowl dripping and changing jets leaking thru the drain hole in case.thanks for all u guys input-im putting my t5s back on.

ok-after investigation-my 2 center studs underneath where the cases bolt together on the rear side of the bike have tranny oil on the nuts!could i be leaking tranny oil into crankcase and thats y my shit is so rich?the fucker is smoking like a train-gets better when warm but it smokes for a while.please dont tell me i gotta split this fucker again.

im confused also thats y i started this post.i know everybody goes up in main with cpis.mine was sputtering up top.as i leaned it it got better and better.it might be good now besides the needle-i need to do a wot plug chop-but i know if its running better leaner and the plugs are black-leaner is the way.i have a dune/drag port for a 4mil myself.not sure if oofs are going help u or hurt u-but i hope u like em.i like mine-just needs a lil tweaking now.the funny part is people say cpis have no bottom-mine will pull tree stumps out.

yes rex-i actually bought them from u like a few weeks ago.i love the sound and the bottom is way better than the t5s.im still tuning-i havent been able to do a wot 6th but i have ripped it hard till fourth and ran 4th out.pulled plug on strong side-i have had to go from 270 mains and i have 240 mains in now and the top is coming around-havent had it on the road tho to see if it pulls hard or poops out in higher gear.its crazy ive down-jetted 3 sizes so far and plug still black,but is starting to clean.with the 270s they were oil coated and the threads were also.im going tomorrow or friday to wot 6th on road to get my reading before i lean more.its definately getting better tho.the only poopy are is the mid.it takes longer to hit pipe-which might be the way cpis act anyway-but 1/4 throttle is choppy-tingy-just not a smooth delivery.any suggestions-240 mains and needle in middle with 27.5 pilots air screw out 2.they are t34 (older aftermarket mikunis).

yes they are.i acually have oil oozing out of my silencers!

i bought a set of cpi pipes.bottom is good as hell -mid takes a while to kick and the top wont pull the wheels!my t5s would eat these things!so-my plugs look like they have tar poured on them.people say u have to increase main with the cpis?is it bad if i have to lean it?i got 34mm mikunis 27.5 pilot,needle on 1st clip and 270 mains.i need to try like a 250 main with needle in mid maybe.my mods are in sig.anybody else have to lean after installing cpis?i heard these are retarded for mid and top.im not impressed-like i said my t5s would shit on these.any help would be swweeeet guys.

my old stocker with similar mods did the same thing-too rich.when u fattened it and it got worse tells u that too.go 280 main-check plug.if its better but crappy-go 270.u gotta listen to the motor and feel what the bike does.theres a thread on here i just read and people say fuck a plug chop-do the ride and feel.i agree-try it.

I just got some cpis from rex.badass pipes at a great price,he even gave me jetting tips on his personal phone.class act person and if i need anything else for my shee-im writing him first.thanks again brougham :beer:

Where the hell is the coal fest????Im in akron ohio and i ride in hillsville sometimes-its about 1 hr. 20 mins. away.Pabanshee it looks like the pics in ur sig were from hillsville???I need a spot to go,theres nowhere to ride around here unless i go to wellsville and put holes in my tires all day lol!!!

smokes good at idle.raced my bud ill smoke him then top flattens and smokes.all gears pull hard except 6th flattens and hell catch up 2 me and were even!hes just ported!im running 32:1 klotz techniplate w a 50/50 93 and 110 mix.im bout 2 drop pilots and go 260 mains.plugs are cunt hair dark still.wtf is plug washout?thanks!

moved clip up one and test rode.bike is better but bottom into mid still lags with a bog.top hits like a punch in the face.got 40 pilots now 2 turns out but still fat.guess ill try 35s.

ok test run went well till police ruined the party.i have 270s in now and havent checked plug yet but top is nice.mid still choppy from quarter to half.is that rich too or lean?i know pilot is fat but can i still get it on needle or drop pilots first?suggestion on pilots?i have 2 go even leaner than normal since my mix screw is longer.thats funny!

put in 290s and it is way better but i have 2 do a wide open check here in a minute.the mid is still off but im way fat on bottom.so i lost an air screw while testing cuz it was out just far enuf 2 wiggle and fall.got 2 new ones but they are a tad longer so im richer yet.how do the pilots drop in size are they by 2.5 or 5 or ten i dont know.

im running t5 pipes.when i had 350 jets in there it looked real white on the porcelain tho.it is fouling plugs though maybe i hadnt had a reading started yet from a new plug being too new to check.are you sure a 290 isnt too lean.i had 300 im my stocker w pipes vitos and reeds.someone told me at a shop that the 34s will take the same size my 26s did.i thought that sounded retarded.i just dont want to hurt it being lean but if i watch the engine temp i should be okay right?thanks for the help u guys are giving me too.

Yo guys-i need help big time.i got a 99 shee with .40 over cyls.,chariot head eith cut stroker domes at 20cc,v3 reed cage,toomey t-5s,open air box w k&n filter and outerwear,1500ft. elevation,93 pump gas with klotz supertechniplate at 32:1 and 370 mains w a 50 pilot,so it says but i have noticable change with adjustment so itll work for now- and a long rod hotrod 4 mil.The jugs are ported by a known builder for the 4 mill and are dune/drag ported.I originally had a problem with a little bog at bottom.Ive had the problem for a while-after hours of jetting-results were minimal but better.So i got the motor built to the now 4 mill as listed.It still had the bottom end bog as if nothing changed but mid and top were great,with my 26 mm stockers.Well my buddies bike ran flawlessly and he had 34mm mikunis,and i have no idea which model as there is no part number anywhere!!!So i bought a chariot performance billet intake for the v3 steup and got my buddies carbs.The bike runs like shit.Bottom still a bog,midrange seems to not wanna go and as you throttle it is very pingy and flat and just seems like its running out of fuel or something-yes i know seems lean-but the wide open run-sometimes it will pull a gear and be okay and others,which is 90 percent of the time it will run out and sputter at top,near the shift point but not the overrev point.The power is poop.Ive sprayed around my intake w carb cleaner and no idle change,so no leaks.So-the intake has a internal crossover tube which can be removed.Ive never had or seen a banshee run the way mine does and it would eat 700 craptors all day and night,now im afraid to race a stocker.So ive narrowed it to my two replacement parts the carbs-which i know for a fact are right on in that sense,and the intake.Is the internal crossover tube screwing me up or do i need it???Im sure it has to be in the intake because ive seen the carbs in action and they didnt do this shit...I cant even start to jet because i cant get my start with the main!!!!!!!I went from 350s-which were sandblasted and 1 size every run-380 wet but 370 looked nice.Im still getting good changes in plug readings but no performance change,rich or lean,still a sputter and not great power!!!!I dont get it-i want to ride but im about to part this thing out.Too much time in tuning-i know its simpler than this.I also had the motor at 4 degrees timing and it seemed smoother at 0 and have checked fuel delivery and no hoses kinked or anything,i actually put on new line-stock size.Do i need a 5/16 line for better fuel????.Ny packing needs replaced too but i know its not causing this.Please help.Can i eliminate the crossover.It seems like the airfoil for the v3s is in as in being straight,but it doesnt touch the reed cage and i thing it might be creating some wierd turbulance-im throwing out ideas cuz im lost!!

Got any 35mm carbs for sale????

Ive read alot on here about going with the hod rods +4+5, but ive also read about hod rod cranks breaking behind the flywheel.Ive been on ebay for the past few months and have seen numerous hod rod cranks that have bent rods or low hours need rebuilt.Now-the bent rod thing i alredy am sure somebody had a major clearance issue that wasn't in their favor,and cant say thats the crank.I havent heard alot of bad things about the vitos crank-quality wise so much-just the stock rod breaking piston skirts.So is it still as bad if i run the vito and have it 4 mil ported and cut domes,as if i would run a spacer which im not.If the jugs are lower,would that help the angle,make it worse or not change it?Really,what im asking is-i have the vito crank-can i run it and think i have a reliable bike or is shit gonna grenade.I will sell it but id rather not go through the hassle if there isnt a big reliability issue.Thanks guys!!!!!!

Yo guys.OK-i bought a 4 mil vito short rod-got it cheap so thats why i got it.Now im getting my motor ported and i heard mixed stories on the spacer plate.Some like-some dont.I talked to the guy to do the port-(i already paid him for the stock crank port before i bought the stroker-ebay)-but he said if i wanted to have it ported to the short rod he would have to have my motor.Do you have to do it that way???He said i could run blaster pistons-which i dont want to do-or run the spacer plate and the timing will be the same as a stock crank with the spacer.Im getting a cool head too so any certain dome i need i can get.Do i have to run the spacer plate-if so is it reliable or should i find someone else to do the porting-if they can do it without the motor and use different domes.I never heard of people having to send the motor too for a port,im sure it would be more accurate but i dont know what to do..All i want is a reliable ported stroked shee.Please tell me the right way to build it!!!!Thanks guys!!!!

I thought that there port jobs were like 500????If anything i would have spent a few more and got one from r&b porting for 225.They did my buddies and the work is second to none and the bike ran flawless but i tried to find another guy that could out do that guy and have something different and hopefully faster.I dunno-maybe im just retarded.Yeah-thats likely the cause. :geek:

I won a "stage 5" port job on ebay for 200 bucks.Guy says its flow tested and dynoed for 19+ depending on mods.Says includes sub ports, intake tract,exhaust, and intake transfers.LOoked nice in the pic but i wanna know if anybody has had work done beauase he has no feedback for a banshee port job.Also, can you port to a +4 mm short rod and not use a spacer plate and if so what domes to use???? I have a 99 shee with t-5s,v3's,fast clutch,open air box and paid for a standard port but found the vitos crank cheap so im trying to see if the guy can and how much more it will be for the port for the stroker crank.Any help is appreciated guys!!!!!

4 mil crank still available???is it trued and welded and what brand is it.oh is that 300 shipped or plus shipping? thanks!!! :biggrin: