volcrano

there is a 28mm keihin roundslide carb which is not a pwk carb.the pwk keihin is the flatslide "d" carb.the gain is a crisper throttle response,thats about it.are you going to notice,prob not.finding parts,prob easier on the pwk,and more tuning info on this site from people that run them.if i was gonna get 28s get the pwk flatslides,if not,save money and bore stockers to 28,as you prob already have an assortment of jets.mikuni jets wont go in a keihin.personally,no shit,the thailand carbs from keihin,being as they are fake,are way better casted and constructed than the real keihin.the only difference is the thailand carbs have different main jets and needle jets than a serialized keihin,so in order to get accurate parts for a pwk you would have to switch alot to get a real pwk.i just am salty with the way u spend $300 on 28 real pwks and you get a shit casting and plastic idle screws.fuck that shit.plastic?!really!!!!!!the thailand carbs come with cast screws which is at least way better than the real pwk.its a coin flip.

check pressure plate for wear also.if its worn down,jeff at fast sells new ones for like $20ish bucks

the atf shouldnt be an issue at all,its interesting someone confused a clutch problem with a broken piston lol.ok,its wierd you have alot of adjustment on your lever still and it grabs all the way out.i like to run my adj. screw on lever all in then 1/4 of its length out.then adjust the pancake to where when i pull in the clutch lever there is freeplay about 1/3 of the lever on the bars until it disengages clutch.that way you can adjustfor less freeplay if needed but i like my clutch to engage quickly off the bars,plus that wayyou know there is no slipping or impropper adjustment at cable because it engages as soon as you start letting it out not like alot of people that run theres to where it grabs at the end.its not only hard to grab on the fly,you could be slipping the clutch if its not totally engaged.your supposed to go by the arrows but with some clutches its way out.are you sure its a new clutch?could it be a used but "new" one for the bike?try adjusting the pancake the factory way which is unhook cable at lever,push the actuating arm by ur finger with no cable pressure on it and adjust the pancake till the arrows line up and lock it down.if that dont work try my way.ive never had a prob,my arrows are way the hell off,i got a magnum basket and fast clutch.also,make sure your rod and ball arent welded together,if they are you need to replace them both,and since ur that far,before you adjust,pull the actuating arm out of the case and make sure its in good shape.grease ur bearing while ur in there to for insurance.hope this helps!

lol,if u have needles in your coolant transfers youve got major issues lol.

lol,if u have needles in your coolant transfers youve got major issues lol.

2 brains cant lie!i tried to get a yamaha e clip but no luck but i went to home depot and grabbed one.not exactly the same but the old one was not grabbing.took cut off wheel to shorten the home depot one and it fits good and is hard enough to try and remove.when on,i pulled the gear back to try and separate from drive pin.it didnt slip off so i guess you guys are right,there is like 1/8" slack but it stays on drive pin and im running it.thanks for the info.next time i will pay more attention before disassembly but you guys were a huge help and i got it back together tonite!

kevin,u might not think ur an artist but it worked good enough for me and hopefully tells everybody how its done.good job my friend!

anybody have this happen?should there be slack??

ok i got a boss style pancake bearing,but it has the 10mm hex.if im holding it in my hand by the hex end,do the washer,bearing,washer go on top there or the other side of the hex.2nd,if it is that way,the hex end will come out of pressure plate and on the other side of the plate it should have the washer,bearing,washer,then pancake body right?also.the threaded adjuster doesnt seem to come out enough to put the locking nut bcak on.do i need a longer or does stock work?the pusher body just goes thru the pressure plate and thats it,since ther isnt the 12mm nut on it to set into the pressure plate right?please help or post pics if im right.i installed it withthe bearings and wahers on the non hex end so its between the pancake body and inner hub nut which i dont think is correct and possibly the reason my adjuster screw is not out enough to put locking nut on.

hi guys,changed my clutch cover to a see thru direct drive i believe.with the impeller and pin installed,i put the gear on and fit it to drive pin and installed the washer and e clip.it moves about 1/8"in and out.didnt notice on other one when took it apart.it looks like it would have to be stationary or it could slide back off the drive pin and you could lose it in the case to cause catastrophy oand overheat.has anybody dealt with this.i was going to put 2 washers on instead of 1 to take up the slack so there is none.everything was installed correctly,im not liking the slack.would 2 washers hurt?i wouldnt think so but want opinions,thanks!

yeah,that looks like a nice piece,ill have have to grab one also!tm states u can run up to 15 tooth front.if u cant fit it go to harbor freight grab a die grinder with bit for $25 and make it fit.then learn to port lol lol.

ok fellas,is it better to run a case saver or not.ive heard from a few people,especially ones that mount on neutral switch,that it does more damage when u throw a chain than not.i heard of breaking the case where it mounts and ir-repairable.ive heard if you dont have one,ull break top of case but wont leak tranny fluid like others,and it will still be fine to ride.anybody with experiences either way please chime in.i know some people that wont ride without one,but im checking to see if more damage is done with or without one.

what the fuck did all of that nonsense rambling mean?i read it 3 times and it makes no sense.christ man!

i agree with you on not being able to make everybody happy,and shit does happen,but as you say there is so much going on to inspect all the parts going out is bullshit.if you can take a picture of it you can make sure its not junk.if you are retarded and cant tell that something is junk compared to somnething that isnt,you shouldnt be selling.i get pissed when i pay good money for junk,then there is always some dumb shit of you gotta pay shipping and fees to get a refund?fuck that,so you get fucked twice,thats awesome.as for the gold at tin foil prices,have you seen what he charges for shit!rusty fuckin crap pipes for $300,$50 for shipping.yeah,right.when i see he sells shit im instantly gone.no way.you have it a little different as you can drive to his house and he can find you a part that works,but even at that you said you had a few that werent right.

eh,i wouldnt get too worked up over it.my buddy had a stocker shee with fatties and would get beat by his cousin who had a 310 laeger chassis 250r by bike length.he blew top end,put vitos pistons in it and pulled that 310 by 2 bikes.the vitos pistons are the shit,but dulls in comparison to an actual port job.i dont know alot about the powervalve deal and im not sure that makes more power,but smooths out the powerband and throttle response.you should be close still,if he pulls you get ur shit ported and light him up.keep us informed how the race goes.

no clamp on the swinger.i just bought one off ebay right now for $31 shipped.they are the coated (as im sure all are) and made by asr and you can get 19,20,22,so on so forth.i got a 22 comin

i forgot to say that i am just stock length,but the caliper mounts on top now instead of bottom as im sure u guys already know that.

brake line is long as shit now,i dont even think i could tie it up without looking stupid.what are you guys doing?if i get a shorter one,how many inches long should it be,i dont want it to slap around but dont want it to be too short either.thanks.

yeah i know,im gonna go upp so i can just slap that bitch on.thanks fellas!!!!

hey guys,i got a stellar tube swinger and the factory white roller is not working cuz there is no lip to hold it in place.ive been told i have to run a aftermarket slider.now,since i dont have it yet or instructions,how does it mount?i see the have like a metal stud coming out from them,cant see if its threaded or not.when u put the slider over the pivot tube where does the end with the metal stud go?does it mount where your bottom chain rolller goes to hold it in place??i just need something that doesnt slide around.if it does mount where the bottom chain roller goes,does the metal piece on the slider also hold the actual bottom chain roller on?i need info-im trying to put this thing on and driving myself nuts on what to get and how it works.thanks!

you should be close if you know how to shift and you can hookup.i mean even with you on your game you might get a few and he might.get it ported and pull ur dick out and smile as ur ripping past him

too rich is better than too lean.how does it run?what do the plugs look like?is it surging(which i doubt cuz 330 is a big main for what u have,but still might be there or close,esp.if cooler temps),if its rich it will burble up top,if lean it will rev but not feel like its going anywhere.i would run it with the 330s for a check.properly warm it up and check plug.it prob will be rich tho since u did state the lid is on.pull lid and check again,unless u want to leave the lid on,then ull have to down jet.if ur running stock carbs and not syncronizing them with a vaccuum guage-open the throttle and look into the windows in the sides of each carb until the eye in the slides are in the window at the same time.thats the easiest way to eyeball the sync and thats y the factory put them there

agreed the bump steer sucks,plus the geometry is off where the weight and force is applied,so the spacers do make a weak point for other parts.ive broken many of tie rod ends because of the added force applied and if you lightly(compared to a factory or properly set up +2 arm)hit a bump or side swipe a log, they break easily.at least with fronts which i have and took off for the actual +2 arms-not a great way to go-u gain control in stance but lose as much in other ways.not worth it,esp. for the money.

take ur 34mm and put it in the corner until u buy another one and run 2!!!lol people have used the 34mms on 2 in 1 intakes,not sure of jetting specs to get going as ive never used one.if u want alot more power stay with the 2 carb set up.shit even factory is 2 26mm carbs and ur switching to 1 34mm carb .i hear 2 in 1 gives good bottom and is easier to tune but if u buy a vaccuum guage from jeff at f.a.s.t ull have no prob syncing the 2 carb oem setup.to answer ur question tho-yeah u can run the 34mm.

i wish i knew-im in the same boat and also ride wellsville.im just gonna try and be careful.