volcrano

Do u have tors system on it?disconnect the brain box on frame over left pipe and cut the wires to parking brake if they are still connected to parking brake plunger and try that.if that doesn't work give more info on factory bike or mods that have been done to anyhing electrical besides what uve already replaced.hope this gets u in there.

if it were mine,i would order the right bolt,tho u can prob find one or something to work at hardware store if u go that route.take the pressure plate off,pull the clutch and seperate the fibers and steels.soak the fibers in oil for a minute,throw the steels in to actually to get a sticking clutch out of the equation,since ur in there.make sure there are no deep gouges in the clutch basket from the fibers chewing into it.a little is ok,and can be filed out to let the plates slide freely.if thats ok,make sure pressure plate isnt worn.if is,get one,jeff at f.a.s.t. on here has them new for $20.if all checks good and the clutch itself is in good shape,i.e.,not burnt up,still grips,put plates back in.it goes fiber,steel,fiber etc, till ur out.u end up with a fiber first and a fiber last,as there is 8 fibers,7 steels on a factory basket.GET ANOTHER SPRING!!u cant have uneven pressure on the pressure plate,u will burn a clutch out,and that might be what happened.u can have 3 stockers,3 aftermarkets for more grip,but u cant take them out for definate.so,if clutch checks ok,grab a new bolt,new spring.torque pressure plate spring to proper torque.as for the center adjuster.loosen locknut,put screwdriver on set screw.the cutch actuator arm that ur cable connects to at the case has like a point on the end if u look at it.now,there is a casting on ur case also that is an arrow.put ur finger on the actuator arm and push towards the passenger side of the motor.adjust the set screw while u have pressure on it with ur other hand and adjust until u get the arrow on the actuator to line up with the arrow on the case.tighten locknut.ur adjusted.actually,before u even adjust,also make sure the pushrod that is in the motor behind that set screw that runs horizontally to the actuator does have the rod and a ball in there.THESE MUST BE SEPERATE!!!if the ball is welded to the rod,get a new rod and new ball,then go back to the adjustment proceedure.this is important the ball and rod are seperate.if ur good and got her adjusted u should be good.as for getting in there easier,ull have to get a lockout or quick change clutch cover.they run 220 ish and up,so not really worth it unless ur going to get a lockout.people have said theyve cut a hole in the cover and put the factory yamaha rubber insert it and had no problems.cut at ur own risk.ive never done it and wont but people have done it.search around forums for info.ur startng issue can be mounds of issues.start by making sure the slides are in the right carbs as u can install them backwards.cutout of the slide towards the rear.pull ur air filter and look in the back of the carbs.if u cant see a little half moon at the bottom of the slides,thet are in the wrong carbs.put in fresh fuel,and fresh plugs,making sure ur air filter is clean and fuel is getting to the carbs.pull one line at a time with the petcock on to see if u get fuel out.we know it fired with starting fluid so ur electrical is working.so now its fuel or compression.get it running and keep it running till warm if u can.grab a compression tester (a good one-these can be ur best friend) and check compression.if ur over 100 on a stocker u should be good still,if one is 100 and the other is 50,u gotta do a topend,but if u dont have a compression tester,get one.well start with that,and fill us in as u go,so we can better diagnose ur situation.btw,welcome to the hq,and there are many people that know whats up,and u definately came to the right place.good luck! oh,as for getting the carbs off the throttle cable,when u get ur tors elim kit,it comes with everything u need to go from throttle box to the carbs so ur stock cable and tors assembly go in garbage.the elim kit has new threaded carb tops,cable.idle screws and tap,some come with bit too.

how can u not like a coolhead?well,coolhead itself cuz of the 50 o-rings,but the design being the question.i got a chariot coolhead and its the shit!!easy to install,easy to use,no problems at all in 2 yrs. so far.why would anybody not like them should be the question.bolt on power??why do u have to have a piped shee with bolt ons,etc etc?im sure if you put on a coolhead with 20cc domes on a stocker ud notice a power increase.then more bolt ons the better.if u stroke it,get different domes,keep the bling.stupid topic imho.rock the coolhead.the name says it all.even backwards,head-cool.yes, head is cool,u cant go wrong..

negative captain,do not use any premix oil in ur tranny,that is for gasoline mix only!!!!!!!in the transmission,use atf fluid,10-40 motor oil or a special gear saver oil if u wanna spend alot of money for nothing.change it every 3 rides and ull have no problems.32:1 premix ratio is fine,thats what i run.u dont need to run 93 if ur stock motor with pipes,ur wasting money and honestly it might not run as good as 87.get 87.these puppies stock have poop for compression,like 6.somethin to 1 if im not mistaken.i see u run h1r in ur premix,klotz supertechniplate is awesome stuff if u are trying different oils.motors stay clean and havent had one blow yet.as for the crankshaft deal,are u talking about the base gaskets the cyls torque down to?ull need to post pics for that one.lastly,any coolant 50/50 will do fine.people also run redline or water wetter,but again,ive noticed no difference to define spending the dough for it.hope this helps!!

check to make sure the slides are in the right carbs,u can put then in backwards.the cutout on the slide goes towards rear of carb and the flat side to the front.one surefire way to tell right off the bat is will ur bike start one kick with no choke?if so they are backwards.that is because the if u have the flat in the back it doesnt let airflow in to lean the mix,therefore choking it without the choke on.also check to make sure choke tube is on.check compression?tors assembly on still?need more info!!good fuel flow going to carbs?float height okay?

dude,seriously,if u find someone to give u over 3000 id shit myself.there are ported 421 cubs on here with tons more money invested than u selling from 3500-4000.theres no way u have 11k in that bike.

$3400!!!?????good luck.

yup,wickeds.and there is no spindle reaming involved.

very sad,deaths always make me get wattery eyed,even tho i dont know anything about her it sucks.people in our sport are like family and its very sad.rest in peace catherine.

whats up welcome.well,check ur jetting first.is it stock,piped?is ur choke working properly?is the choke tube in place,which is the black vent hose connecting the 2 carbs?maybe u need a bigger pilot jet,how does it run on the bottom end?check compression on the motor,that can cause hard starting.check pick up gap-should be credit card worth of room betweed the pick up and flywheel contacts.there is alot of things that can cause that,pre mix oil too.what are you running?everybody has their personals and everybody will tell u different,i love klotx supertechniplate at 32:1 ratio.as for finding neutral,u can get a modded shift star,or mod ur own if ur handy,jeff at f.a.s.t can mod or u can buy a new modded shift shaft,both of these will help finding neutral especially running them both in the bike.as for trans fluid,u will again get a variety of answers.i use cheap atf from autozone and change it every 3 rides.some guys spend $15 a qt. on shit.ive never had a tranny break or lock up on me and ill beat the piss out of that bike..

were u in the cases?it sounds like the sealer around the studs where the cases mate is gone,or not properly sealed.

any clutch that has fzr1000 street bike fibers is what u want.will hold high hp.alot of people run tusk too if ur on a budget.i put a tusk in my other shee but rode once so i can review it.it works great so far.ive seen the fzr1000 fibers,steels and springs for like 77 on egay.i paid 50 shippede for the tusk.alf is a good dude,ships fast.see if he can deal with ya.

http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/uploads/1273345733/gallery_23887_1357_52303.jpg here is a pic of mine like how u want to do urs.i love my baby!!if the link doesnt work,check out my gallery and welcome to the hq!

nobody is on the bike while adjusting lol.it looks like when i tighten the pinch bolts,the eccentric moves,like as the swinger is clamping down,the eccentric is following it.its pissing me off that i seem to be the only one having a problem with such a simple task.ugh.the bolts are what came with it.its like u need 2 people to tighten the fucker,i have no idea why it loosens as i tighten the bolts.like ill adjust it,tighten chain,tighten bolts,and as im tightening the bolts i can see the fucking chain start hanging more and more!i do wanna try put some other bolts in there and get rid of the allen heads for more ratchet ower,but like i said,as im tightening the bolts its loosening before i ride so,it might be on ebay if i dont figure wtf is going on.

hey guys,i got a stellar roundhouse swinger and modquad bearing carrier.ill move the eccentric to where the chain is tight,when i tighten the pinch bolts on the swinger its loose again.ive even had a buddy hold tension on the eccentric as i tighten the pinch bolts and the fucker still seems to move itself where it wants to go.why is this happening.its a pretty cut and dry set up?

i use the fast clutch but put the stock springs in there.it feels nice and works great.make sure ur clutch is adjusted correctly and that ur actuator lever bearing is greased and in good shape.when mine went,it was rough as hell to operate the clutch.

yes,there is a metal stopper that prevents that from happening,it must be missing if ur actuator is popping out that far.

stick with the pro circuits,they are awesome pipes.on my set up,i personally noticed better bottom end pull with pcs than the t5s,they also came on a little sooner.top end felt the same.im not dogging t5s,i liked them,but the pcs are sweet.also,cpis,had them too,depending on ur engine i would stay away.i have a ported 4 mil and ride woods and hated them.on the road or a straight,yes,very bad ass,but woods,ur clutch hand will fall off.stick with what u got unless u want to spend money.me personally,im waiting to see what the snipers are about,and maybe have a pipe built to my porting.they sound like they are going to really be a personalized to your motors peak performance.

well i would have to try and port them for a different rpm range.even with porting,from what i gather,u need a good set of reeds,which right there is around a 100 for carbon techs or similar brand.yeah,i tried the ported ones after v3s,i was looking for a upgrade.if all it helps is throttle response than ok.since i had the 3s,maybe thats y i didnt notice anything,but dont u still have to spend the cash on good reeds or use stockers.i would try it again to tune for a different power range,but im still skeptical.its a decent amount of work to do that,when i already have 3s.i have wanted to try stockers,unported,with low mid carbontechs but its 100 bux and i dont want to spend the cash if there isnt a gain somewhere either in throttle response,etc.a gain period.so am i gonna see my 100 go to use by going low rpm ported cages and low mid reeds?and i already know the v3s are a high rpm reed assembly,and i want a low rpm motor.i just hate spending money and getting minimal or no results.porting the motor was the best money ive ever spent,as im sure everybody will agree.input on to change or leave the 3s in?

hey zilla faggot,if i gave 2 fucks about your opinions id ask for them.so take ur reply and pound salt.let me guess,u ported ur cages and got 10 hp huh.douche.i agree with what akheathen said,if u want a little project cool,i personally was expecting a gain that was noticeable so i thought i wasted time on it.btw,the v3s were on the bike when i bought it.god i wanna punch ur stupid ass in the face.i hate bullshit replies and people talking shit.this is my opinion.if u dont like it fine,but dont run ur dicksucker.

if u can do a top end,u can do a bottom end.very simple.get a clymers,take ur time,double check and clean thoroughly and ull be fine.special tools-flywheel puller is all.blue locktite all screws inside case too for insurance purposes.

try going to like home depot and getting the metal conduit straps.they should fit nice,maybe ull have to drill hole bigger or whatnot,but check into it,might help u out.

well i had ported cages in there and noticed no difference at all.u can say i did it wrong or whatever u want.i dont give a fuck about the talk of flow,velocity blah blah blah.i want to feel a difference or its a waste of time which it was.i dont care about a dyno sheet either tho i havent seen one.i go by ass on the seat dyno,not a piece of paper,i cant ride that.

20 shipped on brake hub?not tryin to lowball,its an offer.44685 zipcode

i use atf in mine,ive used 10w40 too.change it every few rides and it wony be a problem.ur gonna need the blue threadlocker loctite,threebond sealer for the cases,make sure u clean them extremely well before re-assembly.u might want some latex gloves too,that threebond is runny as water and gets everywhere.timing plate is easy,ull need a flywheel puller,pull the flywheel,put ur woodruff key in a safe place,switch ur stator to new plate,bolt plate at timing u prefer.where ur cases are sealed together is the timing mark,so adjust ur timing to the case halves.put woodruff key in place,flat across and install flywheel.rotate flywheel to where raised timing ridges are right upbove the pick-up.stick a credit card on the raised ridge and slide pick up to the credit card to where u can take ur hand off the card and thr pressure ur putting on the pick up to the flywheel holds it in place.tighten the pick up and ur done.u can adjust the timing without pulling the flywheel,but u def. have to pull hte stator cover,im sure u knew that tho