volcrano

i agree with these fine fellas

you havent stated what size mains u have in there now,im sure they arent 200s since its piped.just go up 2 sizes from whats in it,1 size is 10,so if you have 290s in there you would need 310s (going up 2).as for the boost bottle-you dont have to get rid of it since you have it-it wont make a difference.thats why people shouldnt buy one-they dont make a difference,but since u have it fuck it.or out ur stocker on and ebay that one if u dont want it.make sure all jets are clean and try some new plugs.

um-yeah if it helps ur cause.u want top end-it will hurt that.if u like adjusting shit buy some lrds.

putting the timing on +4 will decrease top end pu;; slightly.u might want to leave her at 0.just a thought.

why do u keep cleaning the carbs?sounds like a deeper problem.it sounds like it needs a top end!check ur compreesion before u keep trying to jet it,ur just chasing ur tail.get a compression tester-heat the bike to operating temp and shut it off.put the guage in the spark plug hole and kick it with throttle wide open until the guage stops climbing.u should have no less than 100 psi. in each cyl.if ur under its time for pistons or u have a compression leak as in head gasket,o-rings in head,base gaskets.if u have good compression do leakdown and look for other issues,vaccuum leak or whatever..also-ouch on 270 to rebuild just ur carbs?????that hurts me!!!!!

i feel ya brother,but everyday dude doesnt have the tools to get in the transfers.they would have been done by a somewhat knowledgeable person that had the tools.if they would have had the tools for the transfers-they would have done the intakes.im just busting balls here cuz im bored glad to hear the pipes are treating u well.i miss the sound and top end but my setup now is right for the riding i do.

would anybody do exhaust and transfers and not intakes?ive never seen it in my life and would bet money they have no porting.even if somebody wanted to attempt to "clean up"-they would do the intakes and probably leave it alone.

it has no porting done to it.those are ur cylinders not the head,and cut the plastic completely off as stated by madjimmax.

yeah i agree that ur a total douchebag.what fuck kicks out his girl on christmas because she left the garage door opened and u got snow on ur 4 wheeler?its your fault ur exhaust was off and not plugged.even without the snow u still get dirt in there moron-so u fucked up anyway.that pisses me off and id like to punch u in the throat for being a fuck-too bad i dont live close-id give u a merry christmas fag.

stock is the way to go.best aftermarkets are prob rm stator and i personally have a moose stator and have had no issues.buddys run rm stators problem free so far.

honestly-u should just ride it dude.the more parts and shit u throw to it-the more fucking around and rigging u have to do.if i could do it all again id put pipes on it and ride it.im in too deep to go back now but there is alot of work and tuning involved as you add more parts.not telling you not too but it is a committment lol and if u want your perfect as u can be performance u will be fucking with it almost as much as u ride it.its an addiction to have it as powerful as you can at all times,whatever tuning u need to do for that day or place or temp.as for pistons-i disagree-if you throw some superstock vitos pistons in there i guarantee youll feel the difference and you might or might not have to re-jet.most likely not but thats what reading plugs does for u.getting regular wisecos is a waste of money unless you absolutly need the rebuild but if i wasnt porting i would leave it alone till it is a lost cause.

tors and main switch as in key switch??also-when u unplugged the tors did u unplug the brain box on the left side by the exhaust pipe mount on header pipe?not sure if that was the main switch u were talking about or not.if u havent unplugged the brain-do so and check for spark at cap.had this happen to alot of banshees aive been around.keep us informed.

tors and main switch as in key switch??also-when u unplugged the tors did u unplug the brain box on the left side by the exhaust pipe mount on header pipe?not sure if that was the main switch u were talking about or not.if u havent unplugged the brain-do so and check for spark at cap.had this happen to alot of banshees aive been around.keep us informed.

the difference is internals are dirrerent.body is the same except for a vent is missing on the right side of the body.i dont know if it would be worth it to save the money on the thailands because the mains are different-just not sure how that setup is.i had busted the body on my 28pwk and replaced just the one with the thailand one.outside looks the same-actually,the cap is built much stronger and comes factory with METAL idle screw.the slide was not chrome plated tho-nut i seen on ebay where i got mine that they have a "racing" one that is "ported" on the venturi and polished and has a chrome slide.it might be worth that one for the $80 ea. us dollars.i mean $160 for brand new pwks are good!they are knockoffs but say keihin and you really cant tell the difference.i changed all my internals from my one i broke to this thailand one.everything fit perfectly and i mean every part had to be replaced.the only thing different to my original pwk is the pilot air mixture screw.in the body of the knockoff-it must not be drilled as deep.i have to have 2 turns out on the original to 1 turn out on the knockof to where they match up perfectly.kinda sucks in that aspect because it leaves less room for slight tuning so i have to get it close to spot with other size pilots instead seeing as i should only adjust them like 1/2 a turn so they dont fall out.ill get it tho-for the money i saved i can live with that.that "racing"one was different tho-the internals might be the same as the orig.but might not too.hope this helped.

no man'you wouldnt have to go fmf jet kit-its all the same.you COULD get the longer needles for fine tuning but ull be fine stock.im in ohio also and ride trails.if your spending a grand-thats a good amount.grab a coolhead from chariot for $170 with some 19cc domes and run 93 octane.domes are an extra 60ish.so ur like $230 there.definately go with used pro circuits-and agreed-if ur fouling plugs on any machine you arent jetted right.i can let my shee idle for 20 minutes and blow the tires off instantly(not that that happens alot but when u get stuck ur fucked lol.you should find a nice set of pc's for $300.so ur $530.chariot billet timing plate for $60 and advance to +4.$590.grab the 13 tooth also-$610.i guess if u wanted to spend money on reeds id get the carbon tech low or mid tension reeds on stock cages.if your spending 1000-and now ur around 610 on my calculations-you have $390 left.have ur cyls aggressive trail ported and ull shit urself.then later buy the old lady a blaster lol.porting is the key to horsepower tho.if you dont wanna get that crazy yet tho-$600-$650 should give you what ur looking for.hope this helped.oh-look up pro circuit pipes on here in the jetting forum and see for yourself what people think about them compared to others for a "woods" pipe.hell-paul turner midranges would be a nice choice too and i think nyuk has his for sale on ebay for $300 buy it now.look nice for the price all chromey like.

i would have to agree-my 96 has the dynoport on it-(hey it came that way) and it hugs nuts.i thought it was cool at first just cuz its real smooth,but-thats it.it has absolutly no power past mid and even that is shady.my bud has a bike that is literally exact but with fattys and i swear to god it feels twice as powerful.the dynoport wont even pull the wheels.how queer is that!!!!!!!should have got pro-circuits dude-cancel ur order quick!!!!

oh-there u go-DUNE PORT lol.u already got the pipes and domes for a wicked bitch.get the port!!!!!!!!!!!!

carbs are just as much as porting and wont come close to making the difference in power a port job will.the port depends on ur riding man.if you like trails-get an aggressive trail port,dunes-dune port,drag-well u get it.talk to an engine builder.if ur jugs are good and your pistons arent that old u can hone after the port and be back into it.u can use stock carbs and jetting should really just be upping ur mains.ur engine builder should be able to ball park u before u even start it.fine tuning is u.just check out sites-do research.hjr is in ur range and do killer work-rb porting did mine and its beautiful for 300,that was for a 4mil tho,i think stocker is 2-250-theres jeff at fast,wildcard-check into it.u wont regret it.ur shee will scare u if it doesnt already.

yes the big one under the screw that holds the hold down tab for carb top.

dont know anything bout lectrons but not a fan of the gay ass fucking plastic idle screws in $350 in keihin carbs.bout a cockslap if u ask me.

not trying to be a dick dude-but if ur asking these questions u might want to have someone else do it.chamfering means cleaning up the rough edges around the ports so it is smooth so rings wont get caught.

in gas i run klotz supertechniplate 32:1 and transmission is 10w30.u can really use whatever u want from motor oil to car transmission fluid to gear oil.many people have their own referrences between these.make sure to soak ur clutch in whatever oil u choose for like a day before u rip on it.i usually use the cheapest oil i can find since i change it every 2 rides.never had a transmission issue one and everything looks tits inside.i cant see spending $10 on oil and changing it as frequently as u should,like every 3 rides.my .02

not sure about cable length -especially since you said when u spray it with gas itll start.maybe if ur slides are too far down,but ive never seen that and dont think thats it at all,maybe someone else can advise on the length.pull ur fuel lines one at a time to make sure gas is flowing through.if not check if it has inline filter that is plugged.if no filter,pull line off petcock.if you have fuel from tank down to carbs,and make sure there is no kink in the hose and that it is connected to carbs.did the bike run before u switched the throttle?if not the needle seats could be stuck.also,check to make sure slides in right carbs as you might have them backwards-cutout faces rear of carb on slide.check choke crossover tube that connects the 2 carbs in between and make sure its connected.

take the 200 and scrape up another 150 for a badd ass port job to rock that bitch.youll love the power increase-well worth the cash-ur over half there bro!

lol-dude that is so funny i about shit my pants when i read it.its still funny reading it again lol lol.smelly panties are power robbers too.