volcrano

are those the tmx carbs???if so i might be interested-zip is 44685.i saw tmx carbs go on ebay for $85.what are you asking for them??

Also-if u have tors-disconnect the wires to the brain box on the left side front-its a little black box.mine went bad-no spark.disconnect-spark.have you had stator side case off lately?flywheel off?pinched wire?wire hitting flywheel?good luck!

are pipes still for sale and do you take paypal?if so ill take em!

check compression and if good,get a clymers manual and a multi-tester and check elecs-stator,primary coil,secondary coil,cdi box.

sorry guys-this was a reply and did it all wrong.forgot my meds.

What up? If ya still got 'em, interested in the rear shock if its stiff and not blown and white fronts too if same.Hit me up homie-ill paypal ya.

lookin for toomey pipes and silencers.not too concerned about rust issues.if anyones interested i can post pics of mine and go from there.powercore 2 silencers come with.thanks for checkin guys! :thumbsup:

36:1 ratio is leaner than 25:1.There is less oil.

Mine did the same thing-ended up disconnecting tors brain and never dealt with it again.Id try it unles you removed them.

Dont know what to tell you man-usually with aftermarket pipes you can use factory hangars and clamps.Ive got fmf fatties and everything bolted right up.As for the fat boys-that is a paul turner silencer so i dont see why they wouldnt work.Its probably better to keep the same manufacturers pipe/silencer combo.I dont know what silver lake is like but i hearpt mids are great for a woods style pipe-so whatever thats worth.As for those pipes-i dont know if you like black-but if you like chrome-dude-go to wal-mart in their auto paint section,get a few red scotch-brite pads and some wd-40 and hose them fuckers down with wd and scrub with the pads-try to just get the rust not the whole pipe and get some metal polish and polish them.If you want results you need a buffer that spins like 2-3,000 rpm.Dude-my fatties were shit looking and they bling nice as hell now.If you put a little time you;ll be sportin wood-i was!!!!!That is unless you want black,but just givin ya the heads up!!! :beer:

i do paint and body for a living.You should be able to paint the tank with no problem-you have to use the right stuff.To start-are you really going to be pouring gas all over your tank all the time?If you're really worried-be extra careful when filling.You need to use good materials-no wal-mart shit.I spray DuPont but you can go to a paint store and get cheaper lines like Nason,its a cheaper DuPont but equally as nice.Get some (2) grey scotch brite pads,a can of Bulldog adhesion promoter(you can get this at autozone and is a beautiful product-the paint shop recommends and ive used a shit load of it on plastic with no problem),A quart of enamel reducer-(i recommend duponts 3812 enamel reducer or equivelent),a pint of flexible matting agent,sealer if you can spring the money but if not get a can of grey self etching primer-(its for metal but will bite to plastic and give you a good base for color coat),a few mixing cups9take advantage of free strainers and mixing sticks) :woot: ,a respirator, a tackrag and a pkg. of latex gloves and your paint.I would do a basecoat/clearcoat job if u want custom niceness;you know it will hold up to spills-your car does.Heres what you do-put on your latex gloves- 1-Wipe the tank wet to dry a few times using a clean paper towel each time you go completely around the tank.2-scuff that bitch real good with grey pad-it will not scratch coarse enough to reveal any scratches.3-wipe it the same as in step 1 and tack it off with tackrag-(open pkg. and unfold rag to let resin dry for a min)..4-hang the tank and give her a medium coat of Bulldog and let dry for about 20 mins.5-Spray medium wet coat of sealer or shake can of etch primer really good and blow a LIGHT coat to completely cover the tank and let sit for about 10 mins.6-Repeat step 5 if your using etch primer-if using sealer go to step 7 and let sit for about 25-35 mins.7-Spray your basecoat (you can have a paint shop mix you custom colors in aerosol can so you dont have to buy reducers and all that jazz)-as many coats as you like just make sure you give like at least 15 mins between coats-depending on temperature.8-You're ready for clearcoat-i recommend not tacking off again because you dont want resin from tack rag on there-clear might not stick but you can also get a pkg. of dupont sontara final tack cloths for like 2.50 for 3 of them and those have no resin and are made for wiping before and after basecoat with no worries.Anywho-when you get your clear get prob a quart is the smallest and activator.You want a urethane clear-something that you have to activate with a hardener.Add the appropriate amout of flex agent(directions on back of can)and lay 3 medium wet coats with approx 5-10 mins between coats.Put your finger on a piece of painted tape-if you pull up and see strings-you're ready for another.The reason for the flex agent is it actually has adhesion properties and will be able to withstand expansion and contraction with heat or whatever without cracking.Let her dry completely for one day,but it still wont be completely durable for like a week so be careful if you put gas in before the week period.I hope this helped you out.It can be done!!!! :beer:

hey guys-i have a 99 'shee with .20 over bore,vitos super stock forged pistons,wb boost bottle,290 mains,3rd needle,stock pilot w/air screw 2 1/4 turns out,fmf fatties with powercore 2 silencers.Airbox is stock with snorkel removed.The bike pulled superb with that set-up but plugs looked a little wet.I should mention that the plugs looked good when i ran castor 927 at 32:1 and now i have amsoil dominator in there at 40:1.That oil is thick and says to run at 50 :1 but im to pussy to try it but-anyway-im 'bout to go back to the castor and check it out,but the reason i ask.I just installed v-force 3s and now it seems a little sluggish,like not as snappy and powerband hit kinda weak.I mean it still picks up but it used to yank your ass.Carbs are tight,choke tube on,used new gaskets and thats about all i did.Im wondering if the amsoil oil is like flooding the plugs with fuel now because of the increased velocity from the 3's :shrug: .Has anybody had to lean out-or richen up for that matter.Im wondering if i should try the castor and run it again.Could the amsoil have a part of this now?Does this sound like it makes any sense?My buddy has a 94 shee with same mods(xcept he STILL!!! has factory bore and pistons) and his shit pulls out of idle better than mine and hits like mike tyson(15 yrs. ago),but he has v-force 2s and 280 mains as opposed to my 290s. :yucky: I live in ohio and just seeing if anybody has dealt with a re-jet with 3s for best performance,since the instructions say you usually dont have to.And yes i know what usually means.Thanks for reading homies-hope you can help!!!!!!

Check to make sure your silencer isnt plugged!!!Mine did and it wouldnt get out of its own way-cleaned the clog and hold ur ass boy.If you got compression,you're getting fuel and you got spark-that doesnt leave you too many more places to look than the exhaust restricted in some way.

Id say if anything with your gas off and your one side stays on longer-the only thing i see it being is your float level might be a little higher on one side keeping more gas in the carb-if its not coming out of the overflow though i wouldnt even f with it.

Ive had problems like that to-yes-make sure you check for an air leak first.Every time my bike had a high idle like yours(and it all started when i put my pipes on)-well i had bad gas every time.The first time i used some cam 2 that was old and the oil seperated and it did that,then i drained that ran some castor 927 and it ran like a mofo.Then that ran down and i refilled with klotz.I had the exact same prob again.I pulled the carbs apart i dont know how many times,removed my boost bottle for stocker thinking it was cracked,checked reeds everything.I was pissed!Took a look at the bottle of klotz and it said compatible with MOST fully synthetics.I drained the tank and refuelled with castor 927 again.Bitch rips-it was gas the whole damn time-so definately check to make sure your gas aint old and you didnt mix non compatible oils.As for the running wierd on the one side ive had a sit. like that too.Make sure you try new plugs first.Then chec to make sure your silencer is not plugged.We repacked mine on my powercores and rode for like two weeks and it ran like crap.Over bumps it was cool but turning and flat runs it would misfire-both cyls,but the right more than left.Thing wouldnt get out of its own way.Turned out to be the core didnt meet the cap in the silencer and the packing fell down and blocked the core.Removed and got out of the way and hold the *^&%^ on!Just a thought-i always have dumb easy shit happen to me-maybe you to.Oh-make sure your idle screws on your tors are equal-and move them like a pube at a time to find your idle-also make sure your throttle cable isnt sticking anywhere or routed wrong.

I run castor 927.My buddies run klotz and had plug fouling problems.Switched to castor and they say they dont anymore.Castor smells nice too!

Rebuilding my top end in the shee.Does anybody know the difference between the vitos pistons?I see they have the forged power and super stock but they also have them in power usa and super stock usa-the usa means they are made by wiseco and they are like $20 more.Whats the difference between vitos regulars and their wiseco?Are the regulars junk?Anybody use wsm pistons?This is my first quad-i have a 97 kx250 and have only run pro-lites but im looking for the best for my beeeootch.

Ill tell u what-i just experienced this problem on my 99 shee yesterday.My buddy (not exactly w permission) fired my bike up and started ripping donuts on the pavement-floggin the crap out of it-trails of smoke out the exhaust.About when i told him to chill i (we) heard this noise that sounded like if u have ur bike running and tip the kicker back a little,you know that kinda grinding sound-comming from the jugs and bike quit.Didnt want to start but after 6-7 kicks it fired,didnt wanna idle though and backfire now and again.Thought at first it might have been plugs cause i thought maybe his foot hit the kicker back and he just stalled it u know.Put new plugs in it-same thing.Switched plug wires around 2 c if coil was going bad-same.Cleaned carb-same.Ran compression test.I did it fairly warm which u should do it warm but hot or cold ull still c a difference in pressure if u have a weak cylinder.Mine was the right side too.Comp. was way lower.Pulled head and jug and found chunk of piston between the 2 rings missing 1/4 inch and 1 ring busted in half.Luckily all the pieces shot out of the exhaust since there was no scoring below the exhaust port.That pisses me off cause i just got that bike a month ago!!!!I run good oil 2-castor 927,but i do need to get rid of the junk k&n filter.So YES-definately give it a compression test.It takes about 2 mins. and will tell you alot of what ur looking for.Now check this knowing my situation-would i be a douche to make him pay for any of it?He said he'd pay all but im gonna at least pay half.He was overrevving it too-cause if he didnt i wouldnt be asking the question id pay myself.Let me know if thats fair? :shoothead: