Bansh-eman

I say to camp at no less then wash 15, the farther out you go the better. There is always going to be parking, it's a matter of how crowded you want to be. The closer to the Glamis store you get (I.E. wash 1-10) your going to be packed in and have tons of dust. Go to the BLM website to get your passes ahead of time and they will mail them out to you. Also you are going to need an out of state sticker too, its like 20 bucks i think. it might have gone up becasue cali is a bunch of money grubbing hippies. Have your papers with you for the bikes, and make sure you have whips and flags. And dont be suprised if they screw with you about spark aresstors if there is alot of dumb crap going on at the hill. I have stopped going out on big weekends becasue there is alot of idiots out there that ruin it for everyone. Plus the place gets rutted and whooped out BAD!

unless your quad is setup for MX or desert riding i wouldnt even bother. If your going to make the trip you might as well go a little farther and hit glamis instead!

Boardmanville is located several hundred yards past the railroad tracks at wash 10. We generally camped in the washes anywhere past 15. If you try to camp before then you are going to be packed in like sardines, and all the dust will settle in your camp at night. No one rides at comp any more, the rangers shut it down at night now, and there is a ton of glass all over the place because of people being a-holes over the years. now everyone races olds. Its not far from the washes. if you can ride your bike in the dunes its just a jump hop skip and your there, if you have to truck it , its a little farther becasue you have to go around and take sand highway. Stay away from Gecko, I still to this day have no clue why anyone riding a quad camps gecko. its so far from anything it's insane. Gecko is where most of your sand rails and buggies park. Althoug sat at 1 they do have the sand drags there, just make sure your at the start point and not the end! Edit: Jeff if you look at the link jay posted, right at the bottom of the live bombing area you will see a sign for hwy 78, just below that is a red dot on the right hand side of the railroad tracks, thats Boardmanville. If your going to make a trip out to glamis, make sure you buy your pass ahead of time or else they are double at the gates!!!

damn tim thats like selling your first born! good luck to you and your next monster build!

indeed, once those bolts have been toruqed and removed a few times and put under stress, they are going to stretch and become weaker. a torque wrench will not stop it from snapping at that point. By thens its just a roll of the dice.

ditto, I also torque my case halfs, other then that get it nice and snug, and if it is on a rotating part, loctite.

Yup, Send them to Brian! Those that you saw were mine. I had bk_banshee (Brian) do them. Sent the arms, ball joints, tierods, and tierod ends. They were SEXY! Not cheap by any means but you get what you pay for!

Man I am thinking about calling this IDM Machine shop. Apparently they have figured out how to relocated the water jackets and do away with the transfers so they could bore that puppy out to 69.5 with that 4mil crank to be able to hit 440cc's. These guys obviously have got banshees figured out. Now if only Packard, A&S, K&T, LCP, and the rest of these so called shops could get their shit together and learn from these guys, we would be in business!

no trips any more, i am leaving for okinawa japan on thanksgiving for a year after that i am off to tx

mine did the same thing, its becasue the rubber doesnt have a builtin oring, its just flat all the way across. drop some rtv and it will seal fine

they are all the same, just look up 1987 and its part number is 5Y1-16331-01-00

I'm still learning about meth myself, but doesnt meth generally run best at around 7 degrees plus or minus ??? As for the quality of meth, all the reading I have seen on meth is that meth is meth. all of it is 99.9 pure. The problem comes when you start putting additives like M3 and M5 blends. Now of course I am no chemical enginerr so I cant say for certain if any of it is true, that just stuff I have been reading when I decided to make the switch.

if your shipping top and bottom end get a rubber amde tub, and pack old sheets and pillows around it and drill some holes in the lid and zip tie it. for the topend just pack it i a box and ship it

I like a link setup myself. The link will help to absorb the whoops alot more then a non link. If your riding on a groomed track thats flat go with a non link setup, but if your in the dunes or anywhere it isnt groomed for racing like a track is, I persoally would stick to a link. It's all personal prefferance. I know a few guys that have no links and love them. Keep in mind on a stock frame with a no link swiger the geometry sucks for the rear shock becasue the angle.

unfurtunatly as I am learning in my Logistics Management classes right now, its not that ez Jay. Although it would be nice if it was! There are alot of related costs in shipping that will never go back down with gas even though gas was the whole reason it went up in the first place

not talking about the front arms sitting level, talking about the front of the bike to the back for stock hieghts. I read his post wrong back when I posted orignally

take the motor apart and see if it needs to be bored or just honed. If it needs to be bored, buy the next size pistons and send them with the jugs to get bored so the tolerances can be set properly.

depending on what brnad and where u buy the swinger, it may already come with a carrier... Also if you buy a carrier make sure you gte the right size, JJ&A will have 40mm carriers forsale in that garage section, unless your running a drag axle you need to get the 35mm carrier.

it depends on what kind of pistons you have.

someone will be getting a HELL of a deal! I would not ever sell my motor for that! I would let it rust before I gave that ting away like Beau's doing!

Looks like an Earl Bob Bently if you ask me...

that bolt is a very odd thread pitch for th size of the bolt, your best bet is going to be to find it on a oem part finder and get the part number for it and order it at your local dealer. www.bikebandit.com www.albaaction.com i use thier oem part finder and then buy it from my local dealer

if your trail riding or mxing dopnt get and override. you can not backload them without doing damage past around 8k rpms. If you were doing only drag racing and open dune riding they are golden but not for what your saying you do.

i would can the truck and get the car

its a 14.5 to sit level, nt 13. I have 13.5 and it siting lower then stock. the rear is a 13.5 or 14 i cant remember off the top of my head