Bansh-eman

hey joel, your best bet is probly to go out there a few times and test plowing a track and getting everything setup, that way if you have guys that make a trip and its your first time they dont get discouraged because you havent worked out all the minor kinks. Also keep in mind if you make an event and someone gets hurt you can be held liable for it. plus i am not sure bout the laws in Mi but if its on public land you might need to get permits so your not breaking the law. might look a little into that too just to cover your 6

i posted that first one a long time ago called arab drifting. that never gets old

send Tim (AZcustoms) a pm, he can build a a VERY nice drag chassis for the best price possible. Other brands are GT Performance, H&S Customs, Lone Star, Black Lable (quick16 on planet sand) just to name a few. They will how ever cost much more then Tim.

are the boots actually ripped to peices or do the boots just have tears in them? it is VERY common for the rubber to have holes in them where they have rubbed the spindles.

assembly grease allows the rubber to slide on the metal so it can seat properly and get a good seal on top of tons of other things it does for variouse parts of assembling a motor

I like Redline assembly grease

Tell tail sign of detonation. Findout his compression, timing, dome size, and elevation and report back.

I am not sure this wasnt pointed out, but a hole burnt through the piston crown is not because of detonation. You leaned out that side and burnt the piston. Either an air leak, or allowing the coolant in caused it to become too lean.

Alky is another type of fuel. It is actually called Methanol. It produces more power then gasoline, however at a cost. You will burn a significantly larger amount of alky then gas. Unless you are going to be drag racing there is no need to change. Do a little searching on the web about methanol so you can understand what it is.

ATF Type F for Tranny. Yamalube 36:1 for gas Klotz super techniplate 32:1 Alky NGK B8ES on gas NGK BR8ES if running a dynatek NGK B9ES Alky NGK BR9ES Running dynatek NGK B9EVG (irridium) running PVL

Oh yea, with gas I ran Yamalube and alky Klotz super techniplate

36:1 when I ran gas 32:1 with alky

Basically hat the only time you want to bore a small motor like these is when they are damagd or just due for it. For power gains your just wasting time.

It will only let you delete it for a set amount of time, once that time has elapsed then you cant edit or delete it. And I believe that once others post in there you can't delete it as well??? But I am not 100% sure of that.

Read ths link... Click I posted this a while back to J because he had the same problem

If it shows all the links like your saying, you need to clear out all your temp files and cookies and it will fix its self

Hell for that price you could have had them re powder coated and still saved several hundred

AWSOME find! 225 buy it now! someone better snatch these up! They will NOT last long at that price!

to help you understand think of the needles taper. If you drop the clip (raise the needle) you make the taper come out of the main jet more, this allows more fuel thus making it richer. And if you raise the clip (lower the needle) , it restricts the fuel and makes it leaner

Does anyone else think that all of this looks like Chinese?

Although it wont matter anymore, because I am not moving to where it freezes now, I appreciate the info. If in the case I do endup moving later, how big of a bitch is it to buy a block heater and pan heater after the fact and put it in? BTW nice find on an old thread lol

you want the 250 or the 450?

I like the Hondas, Yamaha seems to be like 5 years behind the power curve on thier dirt bikes. I got my bussied CRF450 or what ever its called in my garage, that thing is very nice. If I was to buy a dirt bike it would be thaqt one

boring your motor out will bring up your cc's but the power gain is minimal at best. your best bet is to go with a stroker crank and port work