differentstrokes

Looks good, I like cut rears for the track and trail myself. I tore some shit up yesterday doing some hardcore trails and mine are cut, ran through mud and everything else and didn't get any dirtier than the other guys with fenders. I guess you cut the brackets off the frame too? Nice work, you've got a nice bike for sure. :beer:

what I did... http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=75610

If you can't pry the sleeve off, just cut it off. I think the dealers charge around $10 for a new one.

I've got the double banjo style and it works good for me.

I would take the locknut off along with the tire and hub on the sprocket side and push or tap the end of the axle with a mallet. If your worried about hitting the threads on the axle ends, just screw the nut back onto the axle flush. Don't forget to raise the caliper off of the rotor too. As far as the zerks, just ask for grease fittings. Also make sure you clean all of the splines and grease them too when reinstalling it, I would go ahead and take all the hubs off and clean and grease them too while you're at it..

You can have the rear shock revalved and resprung for around $300-350, good basic fronts will run around $450.

To get them out, just use a long flat blade screwdriver and tap it from the inside out. You just slide the bolt sleeve over a little to get head of the screwdriver on the edges of the bearing. Tap it out evenly around the edges to keep it from turning. If you have trouble getting it out you can heat up the outside of the carrier with a torch, but not so hot that it might warp. Once you get the new bearing lined up fairly even, tap it with a large socket that fits around the outer edge of the bearing but still fits inside the carrier. You don't want it to rest on the seals, just the metal edges. Then put the carrier in a large bench vise long ways with the socket flush on the bearing and crank it until it pushes the bearing all the way in. Repeat for the other side and you're done. If you want you can lube the inside of the carrier and the outer edge of the bearing with grease to help go in a little smoother. Lube the sleeve before you put it back in too. As far as the zerk, if you decide to install one you can get the type that tap in once you drill a hole and don't have to be threaded. You can get these at hardware stores or an autoparts store, just pic your size and match a drill bit up. The threaded type are okay, but the metal on the carriers is kind of thin so you really can't tap many threads into it. As long as you don't fill it to much with grease you won't need a relief hole for it to escape...use waterproof or marine grease for all this too. Hope that helps.

Yeah, they'll fit. The last number (9) is what really matters since it's the rim height.

No bending, you just angle it down a little. You'll have to shift it a few times to get it on the right splines. If you don't like the stock shifter you can pick up an aluminum folding shifter from RMATV for $15

Yeah, if the kicker bottoms it hits a different spot on the lever too. Overall I'm pretty happy with them, I saw the IMS blaster pegs cheap too. I may end up getting those later, these don't look near as good but they work the same I'm sure since I sharpened everything.

The only way to know is try I guess, what needles are stock in yours? Maybe DGK? I think you can get the needles for about $9 a piece from most places. The DEK and EEK are really close, I'd run whatever I could get easier. Try sudko or carb parts warehouse, they'll give you some good tech info. JMO

I finished installing a pair of blaster pegs and shifter that I had in the garage after doing some research on geometry and thought I'd post a few pics since a search doesn't really bring up any useful posts. I think this is a great mod for the money and REALLY helps out as far as weight distribution and geometry goes. I think it's close to 2.5" back from stock banshee pegs and they sit at the same level. The blaster shifter is a perfect match also, I had both of these on hand so all it really took was a little time and a dremel for some minor grinding (I cut the rails on the kicker side off and also sharpened the teeth on both pegs). On the kicker side I used a 1/2" spacer since one mounting hole is spaced away from the frame (I cut this from a stock a-arm bolt sleeve and it's a perfect fit for a footpeg bolt). I left the rear brake pedal the stock length after moving my feet around on the pegs and testing everything. I actually like it being out of the way when I'm riding hard and shifting around on the pegs alot. I've also got some HEP footpeg extenders, and for $30 you really can't go wrong with these for the money. I did add a few clicks to the compression on the rear shock, but I haven't messed the rebound until I can get to some whoops and jumps. I entertained the thought of a minus swinger, but I'm going to try this for awhile since it's hard enough to keep the front end down with the iRazr's I'm running. I think I'm going to like this, I'd definitely recommend this to trail/xc riders and I know the mx guys have used this for awhile. pegs installed, you can see how they're all the way to back of the frame stock pegs up next to the blaster pegs to show the old and new positioning stock were really smooth, I sharpened the new pegs and the extenders are pretty sharp too

Try a 46, but it shouldn't be any more than a 48. 50 is pretty rich for those mods. Main may be a little rich, but it should be close. Only way to know is to do a plug chop. Leave the needle on the 3rd clip, I'd also recommend a dek or eek needle.

I bought the mityvac and you can pump them in about 5 minutes.

It's okay to change premix oils, I just wouldn't mix 2 different types in the same tank of gas.

I'd go with the Kenda's if you don't want to spend much and still want a good tire. I like the Kenda rears, but I'm not crazy about the fronts. I'm personally a fan of Maxxis and I'm running Razr2's up front (I think these are hands down the best trail front tire) with iRazr's in the rear and all I can say with the iRazr's is hold on cause the front end is coming up. Mine haven't worn to bad yet, but I also keep them off pavement. Kind of pricey, but the traction is the best and the 20x11x10's I run are actually 1lb lighter than 20x11x9 Razr2's.

Hide a key is the way to go. :beer:

What about something like CLR (calcium, lime, rust) that you can get at any grocery store? It's supposed to be able to dissolve or release all kinds of hard stuff, may be worth the $10 or less to try.

I don't know how much damage it may do compared to a screw, but carbon fiber is really heat resistant so it could potentially bounce around in pieces and not necessarily burn up right away. I'd hate to have either one happen to my motor, but I think the chances of either happening are slim.

If I ran PT mids I'd strap some of these to bottom of the pipes since they're so close to the underside of the quad. Seems like they would be really easy to ding, kind of like the pic of the dirtbike pipe where it sits at the same level as the frame rails. Do you ever have any issues with them on trails or playing around?

Off topic, my grandparents live in Opelousas and my aunt and cousins are from New Iberia. Anyways, if you can't find someone I can check with my cousin's old man since his family owns a shop that works on outboard 2strokes and I'm sure he'll know of someone close.

A little around the tips of the silencers is normal, but it sounds like you've got a bunch of oil built up in your pipes/silencers. I'd pull them of and let them drain, check your packing in your silencers too since it probably soaked them. I don't know if you run or have ran race gas, but it seems like you get a little more sludge with it too. I would bet it's old gas and oil, though.

It's been in the 70's here in Alabama, talked to my dad in Yuma, AZ and it was in the 90's already.

I personally use Maxima Castor 927, but I've heard nothing but good stuff about Yamalube 2R.

:yelrotflmao: