differentstrokes

Pic is in my sig, that's an IMS 5.6 gallon. Your only choices are a Clarke or IMS, Rocky Mountain sells both and is probably your best bet since the shipping would be free. The Clarke tank has vents made into the front of the tank that look similar to the stock tank cover. You have to cut the plastic with either one you choose. You can get them in almost any color also.

I bent a front baja on my first ride with them...but my hipers have taken a beating. My only complaint with my hipers is that it's easy to knick up the rings and they're kind of expensive to replace at $25 a piece (6 rings on mine).

Let me clear you off a seat (wiping hand across your mouth).

Sold!!!

Sold pending payment...

I have a brand new Moose Racing magnetic drain plug for a Banshee. This is a 12mm plug and is new in the original packaging. I opened it and looked it over, but it's never been threaded into anything. Perfect shape. $10 shipped

I've got razr2 fronts right now, they're the best turning tire IMO. I've had the T-9 bajas in the past and they're stronger than the regular T-9's but they will still bend with a good hit. Have you considered the Kenda's? They make a 21" inch XC rear, I think the 22" are a little much as far as gearing and losing bottomend for trails.

Almost all of them use the same type of design, the PEP being the exception because of the mounting brackets. The only real difference to consider is whether you want a rebuildable or non-rebuildable. A rebuild kit will run you $20 when it wears out, when the non-rebuildable wears out you just buy another I guess. There's about a $30-40 price difference between the two. The cheapest I've seen recently are the Streamline Billetanium ones. Like I stated before, most are so similar that I would pick based on price. Gibson, SRP, Denton, Streamline, etc are all good and you'll notice a difference when you ride regardless of which you choose. JMO

I ran the XFR swingarm skid. The fit was good and the welds looked nice, but the aluminum could have been a little thicker. I had to knock a few bends out where the sprocket and rotor guards are, but where I ride is pretty rocky too. I haven't heard any complaints about PRM, they sound like a solid product. I'm currently running an Armadillo swinger skid on my 250r and it's pretty solid. JMO

pm sent...

Shocks are SOLD

$20 shipped and it's yours.

2004 Banshee stock linkage - great shape (no big scrapes or gouges) - only needs the 2 grease fittings screwed back in - make offer 2004 Banshee stock shifter in great shape (no bends and splines are good, just needs rubber piece) - make offer

Works triple rate shocks in very good shape (no leaks and springs aren't scratched up), 16.5" long, not sure of the valving but they work great for me at 200+lbs - make offer including shipping ProTaper Universal fatbar clamps - perfect shape $25 shipped OBO

If you're thinking about an aftermarket stem, I would get a Burgard. They're great for the price (I paid $197 shipped for a black powdercoat +1 w/ fatbar clamp). I actually like it better than the Roll Design stem I had before.

I had the lower rise 12 degree flexx bars and they were good, you can always adjust the bar height by inserting the washers they give you that go under the elastomers. It angles the bars different ways depending on how many you add. I like the quad bend high rise style okay, but the lower bend bars look better on the banshees. I say go with the lower bars and use some risers.

Yeah, they are basically a 400ex/250R/450R length shock.

I have a pair of works performance triple rate shocks that are 16.5" long. Not sure of the valving, but they are on my 250r with +2 arma and I weigh 200-210lbs and they work great. I need $210 shipped.

Email [email protected] for the best deal, he'll sell you a full set of 4 Tec3's for $660 shipped. Definitely go with the Tec3's, the warranty is better on them since the have the billet center. The CF1's aren't are al ittle lighter but not as strong.

SOLD SOLD SOLD

I've got a billet rear brake reservoir and billet cap for a banshee, pm me for pics. I'm taking offers since I no longer own a banshee.

I parted my Banshee out awhile back and was mainly riding my 450R up until then. I came across this 86 250R and decided I wanted it so the 450 is gone and I'm back on the 2 stroke (I can't stay away from them for long). I'm taking it apart and cleaning it up, mainly just making sure all is sound since I just got it. It starts on the first or second kick and the motor has low hours on a fresh rebuild. Anyway, it's ported (pictured, but I'm not sure by who), it's got a 67mm bore w/ Wiseco piston and it's a long rod motor (4mm or so spacer plate between the jug). The head is a Pro Design coolhead w/ 20cc dome (running 50/50 race and pump gas) and it's also got a 38mm Keihin airstryker carb and vforce 2 reed valve w/ reed spacer. The pipe is an FMF fatty, which is not my fave but do for now. The bike is pretty quick and I could see it outrunning alot of other bikes with no problem. Just thought I'd throw up a few pics since I'm so stoked because I always wanted a 250R. It needs a few small things, but it's got suspension (a-arms w/ shocks and lsr axle, etc.) so I have the main things I need, plus the plastics are almost new too. Anyways, tell me what you think.

Hey Peter, I replied to your PM. Also in the future, if you don't buy a beadbreaker you can have walmart dismount and mount small tires for $7 each.

You can work the wheel off the rim with one, no problem. I just wouldn't recommend trying to actually break the bead with something like a screwdriver, that would definitely destroy the wheel and tire. Hipers are a pain to break the bead on for some reason and when you mount the tire they don't make that "popping" noise like an aluminum wheel for some reason. They kind of just slide on quietly. I would hose the bead down with wd-40 before I try to inflate the tire and seat the bead or use some dish soap on it. Besides that you shouldn't have a problem. :thumbsup:

Don't forget Vito's Performance too, they're reasonable on their jets.