SAVAGE420

Good much needed post!!!

I wouldn't split the cases just yet. What i would do first is pull off both jugs real quick. Pull the motor outa the frame real quick like. Then flip in upside down holding it in your hands, as some one holds the con rods so they don't smash around as you shake it around a bunch till the bolt falls out onto the floor. Seen a few people drop a bolt down inside and this works. Might take 1 minute might take 10 minutes but it will come out. Just MAKE SURE you don't spin that crank at all till it comes out. This will save you alot of time and wont have to split the case apart. Next time when ever you pull the intakes off, stuff a rag down inside so it wont happen again. Good luck.

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Any MR16 bulb. Everywhere has them for a few bux.....

I run Interceptor mixed with 100LL at 50:1 all day...... I run Amsoil in the truck, car, sled, tractor ect ect. Get it at cost at a buddy's shop. Never had one problem in years.

Dammit man...and i thought i wasn't going to drop by your place again next week.

Well it sounds like its a +4 stock style swinger/carrier. So yes, the stock chain adjusters is what you need. Put a add in the wanted here. Hell i bet a buddy on here will just give them to you for free or for cheap as all hell. There not worth much at all and probably collecting dust on a bunch of shelves all over....

Yup, Magnum billet basket is where its at. I love mine .Cheep in price and strong as hell. Stuffed a F.A.S.T clutch in also and never looked back.

Toe in is the ticket. If i remember correctly, the more you toe in the better the steering with be , but with a loss of straight line tractability and vise versa. So if you want better steering go with a 1/2" toe in or better straight line go with 1/4" toe in. Just play around and find what you like! Later

Which plastic clamps do you speak of?

My Pro Armor rear skid is 1/4" thick and its held up really well to the abuse i put it through in the rocky mountains up here. Beefy welds also My Pro armor a-arm skids and engine skid are 3/16" thick and have taken a beating also. Still all look new just scratches. I say weld one up man.

Just get out the measuring tape quick. Then measure the VERY front of the tires from one an other in the center of the tire tread to the center of the tire tread. Now do the exact same on the VERY back of the front tires. Do both of the measurements with the tires perfectly level. You want the toe in set so that you have anywhere between a 1/4"-1/2" difference. Meaning that the front measurement you took you want it to be 1/4-1/2" shorter then the measurement you took on the back. Just adjust your tie rods accordingly till you get it all set. Understand? Its very simple. I have mine set at 1/2" toe in. Good luck.

Yes, they are the right ones you are looking at. Just make sure you don't 100% solid mount them. You need some sort of rubber bushing and what not. Most people will give you a couple rubber bushings with theres though. Just ask before you buy. You don't want your pipe tabs to crack and break off, so you need a lil movement and give. Don't forget to blue lock tight everything when installing them. Don't over tighten also.

Thats a member here from Germany. Think his name is banshee bandit or something "ED". Every banshee ive ever been around has a slight noise like that. Im pretty sure its just the tranny gears spinning and everything else spinning like the basket and what not. Replace you gear though. I would.

Yeah, there should be very minimal play there. You can change just the bushing out, or change the whole gear in 2 seconds is what you should do. There real cheep to buy. If that lets go then it can fuck up your crank seal and also your clutch basket. For the price, just change it out now. I change mine every couple years.

Thats perfectly fine right there. By the way, what altitude are you at?

Here is Smkmup's old ladys bike he built for her over on E2S. Nice looking color combo for a lady. http://forums.everything2stroke.com/yamaha-banshee/24170-pink-banshee-christmas-gift.html Show your old lady, i bet she would like it. You might not be able to get the pics to go large if your not a member, ill post them here big so you guys can see if you cant......

Mike, the 50's wont on a stock stator. BUT, just take out the 50W bulbs and replace them with 35W's for about 5-10 for both. Any hardware store will have them, there just a MR16 bulb. Thats if there is 50's in them now. if there 35's your golden.

Is this the red framed one?

Go ahead and get a G-force 2+2 axle from RMATV. But hit up ALF44 on here and he can save you a lil bit of $ on one. Just use your same carrier if you run a stock swinger. IMO i would replace the 2 bearings and seals for the carrier anyways while your at it, the bearings/seals are cheep. http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/productDetail.do?navType=type&webTypeId=17&navTitle=ATV+Parts&webCatId=24&prodFamilyId=9207#vehicleSelect

Hit up NYUK......

Yeah, definitely post a pic of it. Hell it might not even belong to your shee let alone any quad. So post a pic or you owe me a doughnut.....lol Is it the dowel pin for your shift star?