I don't think any one is complaining to you about minor problems, so what makes you think they would complain to you about any major situation? I like that you're here, but your knowledge is mostly outdated hearsay and you have come to this forum giving the most rediculous suggestions/solutions/scenarios many of have heard in a long while. Please do a little bit more reading before trying to educate others.
Been there done that, what kind of head, compression, timing, and fuel are you set up to run?"
Mine was cracked where the manufacturer machines "cooling grooves"
Had a streamline when they first came out for $300, didn't last long. Not sure I'd try one again knowing that my current clutch set up is damn near bullet proof and quite easy to pull.
Not currently running one but I can tell you that streamlIne has a lot of issues with the master on their kits. I have heard nothing but praise from people with a Magura set up with the braided line.
There have been cub cylinders with stickers on them. They will hold you over for a while till you can get better carbs but they will definitely be choking those cylinders. As far as pipes, same goes with the pipes. That cylinder certainly be better suited with better pipes and carbs. What are you looking for the motor to do? Because a cub with toomeys and stock carbs isn't gonna do much more then a good stock cyl 4mm dune build.
So again you give set up advise and try to compare your motor that is nowhere near what his is. Why bother with such a jargon ass post?
To the OP. To tell if you are rich or lean on that pilot, use the air screw. If it runs better screwed in all the way, you need a bigger pilot. If it runs better by opening up the air screw you need a smaller pilot. Is it smoking excessively upon start up and idle?
The strikers will definitely come out jetted with a bit smaller jets then what you will see in regular PWK's with similar set ups. I'd bet you will be about 45-48 pilot, needle second clip from the top, and a 145-148 main
Get the adapters for the bigger carbs. Then get what is called a pro flow kit with a flange that goes in the air box and allows a big filter of your choosing either gauze or foam. I would also suggest removing the stock mounting tabs and making something custom so the box can go in and out with ease.
My comment was aimed at the difference between producing and importing. People keep saying they are made in Australia, pretty sure they are shipped there like every where else.
Different strokes for different folks. Some just have time and money to burn and really don't care about results. I'm fine with that so long as some one doesnt go boasting that they are a proven engine builder just because they ported a few sets of cylinders and they beat their buddies every weekend. Unless their friends happen to have motors from actual builders with good tune and chassis.