trickedcarbine

^This! And..... Why cripple a 421 with a single carb? I suppose a 41 would maybe work, but the problem is that it is a combo that you won't find much info on. So you are kinda on your own tuning.

I'm saying he should be checking the deck height with the base gasket in place. As for the reference to the degree wheel, I was just clarifying the reason some guys use a wheel when coming up with the numbers for domes. Obviously I only gave the most general reason which would be finding absolute TDC. However, if the motor is ported it would help an experienced builder to know when the ports are opening and closing to know the actual trapped volume that will be compressed/ignited. That way they can spec the proper sized dome. Guess I should of added that in my first post. But if you already have the motor assembled, just throw a L sheped piece of solder in there and figure out what it is and make your changes from that measurement.

BTW, found a stock looking head for domes. It is at TDR. http://www.bansheedepot.com/proddetail.asp?prod=SWH%2D72

My bad, I thought that was his labor cost to do a top end not just parts

No bueno! Pod filters need more fuel. Give that motor a compression test, as well as leak down. Then ohm out all electrical per the clymer manual specs.

In all seriousness, my next motor will be 100+ ponies on a -2 swinger : )

Jeff at fast and I believe TDR sell genuine mikuni boots.

He charges that 300 to do the top end rebuild? But aren't you only sending your cylinders not the whole motor?

You could, but then the problem is that they would still only be estimating the step in the dome. Many different base gaskets are made of similar yet different materials that tend to squish down a little bit. So say a .020 base gasket might actually be .015/.016 after torquing it all down. I would bet that whoever told you to get a degree wheel is doing that so that you know when you are exactley at Top dead center.... Just my guess and I know it is definitely the most accurate way to do things. So, if it were me, I would buy 2 base gaskets. Torque the cylinder down to spec with a gasket in place and use your degree wheel to find TDC. Then use a dial indicator to find what your deck height is. Use the other base gasket when you do your final assembly.

Are you guys running anything oxygenated on those DM's? Guys kept telling me it was a waste but I noticed drastic differences between fuels and their tuning capabilities when going to C12/14 then stepping up to VP113 oxygenated and even tried the Q16. That stuff really let's you wick the timing and compression up but I think I like the VP113 the best for my current set up.

4.0? In what chassis? Must have a helluva top end charge if it's 60' at 1.69.. ....

On that note, I'm selling an R6 shock for $25 plus shipping

Bawahahaha!

Ha! ^ Awesome

So I wasn't the only one with that thought....

This is definitely getting done right!

28's will definitely get you through

More like a big hit off the bong.....

Didn't the second link I posted say it was closed?

But fanny packs are so back in!

Had one and it let dirt in at the ear piece. Ultimately scratched the screen. I have been rocking the LifeProof case and it is titties. But I have had this Alpine Star case for a while in the package and decided since the Life Proof was due for a replacement I would try this thing out. It sucked and the Life Proof is going back on. I'm about to upgrade the phone to a Galaxy S4 or HTC One as soon as they make a Ballistic HC case for them.

To boot the durations were apparently lower then most actual cubs are. So same power with less durations would typically mean a better curve as long as its not revved out.

Finish them with some Master Formula and they will look like chrome!

http://www.incipio.com/collections/alpinestars/alpinestars-iphone-4-4s-cases/iphone-4-4s-alpinestars-bionic-a-o-o-e-e-o-silicrylic-a-cu-e-hard-shell-case-with-silicone-core.html Junk! Flimsy rubber peels back almost any time you handle it or pull it oh of a pocket. The hard backing shell is nearly like putting your phone on Astro Glide. Sucks to grip and it slides off every thing. Mine is still in tact, but my buddies has fell and it cracked.

If that same set up at one point was running properly and is now giving you those issues you are on the right track. Cleaned and synced the carbs is a good start. Are the slides correct? Try checking the strainer in the tank and cleaning the petcock. If there are still issues, look at the plugs and begin checking over the rest of the ignition system.