trickedcarbine

Doesn't that make a weird squish area?

And a second fucking donkey post!

Why is the conversion forum so fucking cluttered! All this shit that isn't even related.....

Depends on the actual manifold. You probably could get away with new boots, but it might be wise to see if the manifold diameter is smaller then the carb before doing so.

This link was posted in another topic but I think it should be put in product reviews for everyone to see. This is the personal conduct of the BlingStar owner. http://myemail.constantcontact.com/Huge-ATV-Company-Destroys-Custom-Quad-.html?soid=1103963111361&aid=ecDuZXcrGFY

You are such a naive cunt some times......

I must add the only thing I don't like is that they used to sell it for $25 and had bigger bottles. If you heckal with them they will let you get by some times. Also: DO NOT LET IT FREEZE!

This is the polish I reccomend to use in almost any polishing thread. Obviously I love real compound cakes, but once metal is in good shape this is the best shit I have ever touched! I found it at the Bike show at Cobo Hall when I was 16. I have officially been using it for 10 years now and don't even touch shit like mothers, meguires, never dull, blue off, etc. I even used it when I did jewelry class and my instructor demanded to know where it came from and she has been polishing metals for over 30 years and now uses this stuff. It is hands down the best polish known to man. Raw steel rockets! I polished this head with paper towel and MF

Bitchin! Looks awesome for a hand cut piece.

Jealous! I need a set of PEPS all the way around for the banshee.

I dig that. Looks pretty good man!

Mothers plastic renew kit for headlights

You can use a medium buffing wheel or even a spiral sewn wheel with brown cake to tear all that junk off the pipes. Be careful with the spiral sewn wheels though as they are aggressive. Then use a fine wheel with white tripoli cake. Finish it with a fine wheel and red rouge. Clean the rouge off and use a good sealer.

Perfect! Nothing else to say.

Another member on here(ZillaGuy, not ZillaFreak) was in the same boat. Was all about the override till we talked and he called Tyson racing and was told that an override might be a bit much for him. So brad cut him a stock style( think brad calls his EZ-shift). He seemed to love it.

We're there little chatter marks where the fibers ride in the basket? Does the old plate have chatter marks and was it installed correctly? Was the rod welded to the ball? Is the arm on the top of the case aligned with that arrow? How about that bushing in the clutch basket, was it kinda sloppy? That pic really doesn't show much.

If a Non override modified trans is done right there is WAY MORE to it the. Just removing every other dog and calling it good. Although that is part of it. There are a lot of little areas where these gears mesh or lock in together and the guys who know what they are doing are putting a little work in to those areas as well. You can look at my WCR Pro Mod next to a bone stock tranny and see ALOT of differences. Then you throw in the modded shift star, drum mod, micro polishing, Cryo Treatment and a modded shift shaft as well as a shift pro and my tranny shifts like Fuggin butter! If I do it right I can practically shift with no clutch. But most of these type of Trannys will require an ever so slight blip of the throttle or clutch. Pretty much either/or.If you aren't drag racing, hill shooting, or hill climbing, it might be wise to do a stock cut. A good one is a huge difference.

Standard bore goes up to 66mm. Or at least they should work with 66mm pistons withbabtouch of clearance. The big bore stuff will be 68mm+. The big bore stuff will have a different configuration due to CC's.

Ohh, so that's why his numbers are always higher......

Why an Athena head? There is no reason why that should be your solution to any serval head need.

My motor is about 192* on the exhaust. It is what I suppose many would call a dune port but my particular motor has additional ports cut in to the liner as well. This helps keep some low end along with compression and timing it comes on super hard almost around 6-6,500k

PJ1 high temp exhaust paint. It's literally made for it.

No longer worth the time, hassle, or aggravation. First there is a ton of time finding all the parts and the cost to do so. Then there is the fact that there are guys setting up stock Banshee cylinders up to produce just as much power with just as good of a curve. Plus with the power valve set up on the RZ cylinders you can only do so much porting and if your wants/needs ever surpass that point it will be a banshee cylinder you replace it with. The RZ guys are on a revival and it is because they are now starting to adopt banshee tech to their archaic RZ motors. They were one in the same, but it was the banshee that made the aftermarket really keep stepping it up. So in turn, if it were me. I wouldn't bother with the RZ set up. Once upon a time it was gold. But now there are so many different builders doing excellent 4mm stock cyls, aftermarket cylinders for drag, dunes, trails. Almost any of those set ups will far surpass what you can do with the RZ stuff.

That was the special edition. On a serious note... The earlier J arm frames might be the hot ticket for drag set ups if you are really serious about weight savings.

^this