trickedcarbine

Just to be a bit more specific, you would scribe from the inside of the cylinder as well as the exhaust flange side. It will have a contour if done correct.

You can definitely and should get them done. Might be a builder who can match the PV's to the block off pieces so you don't have to tear down. But ultimately your best result will be to take it apart and match them.

Decision time, you can probably get domes from a builder and be riding next weekend on pump if you wanna pinch pennies. Or, you could start messing with some race fuel and put that little kitty cub near it's potential. When running race fuel you basically decide which octane you need, and whether or not you wanna have to occasionally purge your bike like an alky bike or not, which is the only down fall to the oxygenated stuff. Basically you are gonna spend more money on a new dome set up, or you just spend that extra loot on fuel for your current set up and not have to wrench on it. Not to mention the better fuel would let you give it some timing. For a consistent performing fuel I would check out VP C12. If you are thinking o oxygenated stuff, check out the VP 113. It is stellar! Been running it since The shop ran out of C12 last winter. I will probably not switch back. I can keep the compression up and run more timing on the straights of a 1/2 mile oval then I could on the C12.

Because quality parts are smooth so as to not jank up other parts. You know that, but if you look around and do some digging, you'll find that many people have de bunked the mythical benefits of added power and less carbon build up.

I'm taking the easy way out and calling Andy at Grand River Racing to do my pipes.

A lot of research has surfaced in many forms of motor sports that a polished surface in fact does the opposite of shedding carbon build up.

Mat shearer has a 2/1 pipe design for guys with cub remorse. It helps get you a bit more low end back with out totally choking off the air flow. I would personally try some CPI pipes or maybe rockets over shearers if you want bottom end, maybe even stick with your current pipes. As far as what you need to do with the head, what kind of head is it? Shell with inserts? If so just get new domes cut from a reputable builder. They will get it set up the way it should be. Jetting should be easy. In fact you will probably drop a size or two in the main and maybe lean the needle out one clip. Timing, just stick it at 4 degrees and leave it be. You could speak with whomever is doing your domes and they will have good insight as to what kind of timing you will be able to get away with on premium and their dome set up.

Should be

Not shabby, maybe a light hone, fresh pistons and gaskets.

Loco just posted a motor that puked its wang crank guts out the bottom of the cases. They make nice confetti. But if it were me I'd go with either a Hot Rods or new style Vito's. either way get some max loads and a weld on the thing and never worry.

You simply have zero clue how much better it could be with a stock mod. To the OP, there are a lot of options out there but I would say that if you aren't dragging or hill shooting steer clear of an over ride and find some one to do a total package stock mod type trans.

KTM 325 2 stroke. Send it to Eric Gorr. Or do the newer Yamaha 250 from like 08+ and send that off to Eric Gorr.

Raw pipes are tuff! And shiny if you're not lazy.

Weld up a solution, and quit muddying up the forums with your stereotypical Cholo faggotry

That's great for shipping pipes. As for carb size, a 34-36 taper bore lectron would be pretty bitchin on your set up.

At this time Noss does make domes for many folks. However, things Havnt always been the way they are now. But I have noticed that the sets I had in one of my previous motors was identical to Jim's and both sides confirmed.

Give this a read. Got a few misc must do tricks. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=152239

Its not like the passion domes I have. BTW, noss domes are Jims design. Although he says sniper..... That would be Gary's handy work. Not Jim's.

TM design works

^that!

Those are junk!!! You can get used 34mm pj's in near new shape for way less. Those in the link are basically a bigger version of the stock carbs. The PJ, PWK, or mikuni TM are all far superior.

Try a 27.5 pilot and 1/2 a turn out on the air screw. Fine tune the screw from there. Also watch a you tube video on carb syncing. It will help you make sure they are set up right as far as slide height, idle, opening at the same time.

Start looking for a great deal on a used cub top end. They are about the best bang for buck drag top end out. Plus you seem to already have a stellar bottom end set up and there are a ton of cub cylinders for sale that are already ported and ready to run with your 4mm crank. 4mm stroke in 68mm bore puts you at 421cc with the potential to make 80-90 on gas and 100+ on alky.

Your pilot has everything to do with start up and with mikuni carbs the best airscrew setting should be about half to one and a half turns out. Keihins a are usually 3/4 a turn to 3 turns out. Get that set right and it should also stay running. And yes the back bottom side of the slide should have a half oval shape missing. Also, you mention in an earlier post that there are stock pilots in the carbs. Are there any mods done to bike?

Not really, all bout the same with equal feedback