FIRST BANSHEE

don't know where your clip is now, but raise it up to clean up the middle. the 30 pilot my be big for the t-5s.

with a 15 in front you'll see about 85-90 depending on tire size and rider weight.

I had him bore my cylinders before. he got them done real fast for me. has a nice shop, and he's a nice guy to deal with.

your chain shouldn't have streched that quick, I would get a new chain and sprocket set. or if your in a money bind, get a 15 front, you'll like it better anyway.

If you don't put it back on make sure you plug the hole. I used silcone. If you do put it back on make sure it hooked to a nitrous kit.

what are your air screws at, turing them in should also help with the hesitation. lower the clip will richen up the 1/4-3/4 area of throttle. nothing at WOT

sounds lean on the pilot go up 1 size to 27.5, also sounds lean on the main go from 290 to 330 and lower your clip 2 notches.

I tried a 13,14,and15 front and like the 15 the best. if your running stock carbs and are ported, I would start with a 370-390 main, and 27.5 pilot. call trinity and ask them for a baseline, they should be able to get you in the ballpark.

if it got wet that colud be part of your problem

ifthey go down with the cable disconnected, I would check at the splitter, make sure thats not bound up.

if your left pipe was full of fuel, maybe your left cylinder has fuel in it also. remove your left carb ,reeds and spark plug. with your fuel off kick it a bunch of times and see if fuel comes out of the spark plug hole. if it does kick it until it doesn't.then put it back together. I personally think your main and pilot are to big, and you should raise the clip 2 notches. maybe a 42-45 pilot and 150-158 main. 1500 ft or less and 50 degrees f average.

sounds to fat to me also. I would drop a size at a time untill it clears up.

lower your clip to the 4th groove, that will raise your needle. should help with the hesitation.once warmed up set your idle by turning the choke knob, both should be equal. Is it pulling harder with the 160's, if so ride it a little bit and check your plugs. If it seems to be a little slower, or chugging on top the main may be to big.

this would cause flooding, plug fouling and the engine not to run. also could fill your cylinders with gas and cause a hydro lock where you could bend your rods. I'd fix the carbs first then see how it runs, you need all the parts for it to run right.

I still say your carbs are the problem, if they have gas in the bowls and it won't stay running after you put gas in the cylinders except for 2 seconds, the passages are plugged, or you have a big ass air leak.whats your compression, no compression, no vacuum, won't pull any fuel?

the rears on a 91and newer are a 4-115, not sure about the front, but that didn't change.

ericgorr.com I got the more power everywhere port. it comes on sooner revs higher and pulls harder throughout. it was like $250 for the port work.he has good prices on parts too. there's a post in general discussion about him closing shop.

that round cover is just for looks, you have to take the side cover off.

the t-6s performed better with every mod I did including port work.they perform great through the whole power band.the have a hard hit at the bottom and keeps pulling through the top. some pipes will be better and some worse, for a alaround great pipe t-6s rock.

when you put gas in the cylinders and start it does it stay running?

I've always have run 32-1 with no problems. klotz r 50

with the lid on and temps above 80 f they should be ok, but I would still start bigger like 300-320. I don't know anybody that used the 280's. but i don't know anybody running with the lid on that hasn't been modified.

I feel the same way. i've run fmf's and t-5s and I personally like the way the t-6s perform, look and sound. The way my quad runs now is awesome,I'm not changing anything.

on a stock port engine I think you gain a little on top,over stock carbs.