BigRed350x

You can take apart and rebuild the stock petcock with parts from your local hardware shop like ACE hardware or TrueValue. If you don't want to deal with it any more, just buy a pingle and be done with it. Much better design anyway. While you're at your hardware shop getting the parts you need to rebuild your petcock, just pick up an easy out set for the stuck bolt. You can also drill the head of the bolt off (very carefully) and remove the cover, then grab the little stub of whats left of it with some vice grips and twist it out. In either case, your threads in your case are probably going to be buggered up, so pick up a thread tap and re-do your threads while you have the cover off. Blast the hole out with some carb cleaner as well, a lot of times dirt and sand get into the holes and when you put the bolt in it mashes the sand up in the end of the bolt hole and wont let the bolt thread in as far as it should and it strips out. easy out / drill bits / tap & die set to fix threads / new allen-head bolts for the cover.

Ditch the whole idea of dealing with Trinity and you will be much happier in the end. I deal with Kevin at Herr Jugs Racing. His number is in my signature. He will get you the parts you need to get set up for what you're trying to do, with a LOT faster turnaround time than the other guys. If you have a cub, you're not going to get what you're looking for in the trails. Just not the way the cubs porting is designed. You want a serval cylinder, or a ported stock cylinder for the trails. You can deck the cub cylinders and get some cut domes to drop the port timings down (I did this to one of my fist cub cylinders I ever had and it was a lot of fun on the trails) but its a lot of work for something you can buy off-the-shelf these days. Call Kevin and he will get you squared away with what you need. - Jared

If you insist on using the retarded spacer plate instead of getting custom cut domes... you want to have a base gasket, spacer plate, another base gasket, then your cylinders, then your cool head. If you have the spacer plate on top your port timing will be so messed up the poor banshee will never run right. The better way to fix this setup would be to ditch the spacer plate completely... Run a single base gasket, then your cylinders, then get a set of custom cut domes to match your positive deck height you will have with the 4mil crank and go from there. If you ever want to make the banshee run right you NEED to get your cylinders ported for the 4mil crank. All the time you will spend being mad at how crappy your budget built 4mil runs you could have sent your cylinders off to Kevin at Herr Jugs, had them ported for the 4mil and back to you & done the right way. Ditch the spacer plate, port your cylinders, and get some custom cut domes.

I like to sand blast my transmissions with coal slag, especially the bronze bushing surfaces. Then, just to make sure the trans stays nice, I mix sand with my trans fluid. This way it acts like a rock tumbler the whole time its running and everything comes out nice and polished. Some of the stuff these companies sell cracks me up... micro-polished transmission? really? I would have spent the $ to buy a trans from someone here on HQ and spent the money you would have saved on some performance parts you will actually notice a difference from.

I'm with Daj on this one... I went through a handful of Ricky Stator units in 2 years. I won't run anything but the stock stators now. Same thing happened with me as it did Daj, I had one go bad less than an hour on its first ride. Don't confuse Ricks Stator with Ricky Stator. They are different companies. The Ricks Stators seem to be a little better than the Ricky stator units. I had a ricks stator on my 10mil and it held up all season long and I replaced it with a stock unit and still keep the ricks stator in one of my parts boxes for a spare. If you give the mounting bracket a little heat the first time, the pickup coil bolts come out easy. I replace them with allen head bolts the first time I get a stator with the factory bolts on them.

I'd go with a 4mil setup over the 404. If you go with the longrod (115mm rod) crank you will get the added benefit of lower piston-to-cylinder wall stresses and a smoother torque curve. Give Kevin at Herr Jugs racing a call and pick up one of his 4mil cranks and get your cylinders ported. He does some VERY nice port work. I'm running a set of cylinders he did for me on my stock stroke duner and its one of the funnest bikes I have. His number is in my signature. He will get you set up right and has very fast turnaround time. - Jared

From the looks of that video you guys out there need bigger lift kits and bigger tires. lol! I'd stay and play in the river for a bit before I went to the dunes...

Try running the lockup without any weights on it first on your setup. You aren't running alky or any high HP drag setup, you don't need all the weight on the lockup. JMO

Ditch the junk pistons and buy wiseco's.

If you really do have a serval and not a cub, then you just need to change pipes, up the compression, go smaller on the carbs and bump up the timing. I'd try a PT mid, FMF Gnarly, or a 2into1 pipe. Go with a 28mm carb, or even a 2into1 carb setup. Up your compression with some smaller domes, and bump up your timing. You will need to run racegas with the higher compression and timing. I would try swapping to smaller carbs or a 2into1 carb setup and lower hitting pipes like PT mids, FMF gnarly's, or a 2into1 pipe first before you change domes and timing.

Bump! Had a guy PM me about a trade and I never heard back from you... PM me back and let me know if you want to make a deal or not.

No way a 28mm can be opened up to 48mm. You would have no carb left! If you are measuring the bell side of the carb, that's not the right side of the carb to measure. You want to measure the engine side of the carb, inside diameter.

You can swap them no prob. Just put your banshee hubs on the blaster axle and go! I think it narrows the rear end 2 inches.

The angle of your arms in the pic taken from the front looks really steep. Are you sure your shocks are the correct length? They might be an inch or two too long and its throwing off the alignment of everything. The paint chipping off around the j-arm mounts on the frame also makes me think your whole frame might be tweaked from a rollover. Given its a J-Arm frame, its been around for over 20 years now. Chances are its been rolled or crashed in those 20 years. Maybe its time to just invest in a new frame if stuff isn't lining up or appears crooked. What the length of your shocks eye to eye? Maybe I'm just used to seeing our banshees with the +2 and +3 a-arms and I've forgotton how steep the stock a-arms sit, but yours look odd to me for some reason.

Cam, can you shoot me some pics to my email? Any part numbers on the turbo? I'm thinking about this setup for my short sand car... All the bearings on the turbo nice and tight, no play in anything? Thanks - Jared [email protected]

Give Kevin at Herr Jugs racing a call, he can hook you up. I would upgrade to a billet basket, the stock ones wear out quickly.

Could be a tweaked frame, bent arm, worn out ball joints, bent shock mounts....

2323534532411HP on alky.

Here's what comes with the Chariot 2 into 1 intake. 2into1 Manifold Carb boot gaskets mounting hardware throttle cable

I'm confused... why would I trade for domes that leak?

Wow, gave up watching that after 30 sec of taco taco burrito talk.

That's a massive fail. Sorry to hear about the bum axle. Get yourself a Gforce...

I think the guy is looking for a 2 into 1 intake with all the mounting hardware, and some pipes. He needs it shipped to France USPS. I hope I got that right...

Call up kevin at Herr Jugs Racing and see if he can beat it. If he can't I'd go hit up Egay.

Holy cow, I agree with daj. The guy knowingly sent you out a crank that he couldn't get trued up. Note to self... don't shop at TDR.