BigRed350x

The billet cranks will break and fail just like the forged ones will. There's pics of a big billet crank over on planetsand that snapped off right at the web. The life of your crank goes to the checkout, install, and maintenance.

Not sure about Cali, but in Wyoming you can buy a state ORV sticker for like $15-20 and you're good to go. Cali might have a non-resident sticker or something you need to buy. I'd check into it before you get down there.

Have you guys tried using any heat. Hit the bolt head with a propane torch for a good 5-10min and get that sucker HOT. Then beat on it. I've also gotten them really hot, and cool them down really fast with cold water. The rapid expansion/contraction breaks the rust loose sometimes and you can beat them out. Replace the bolt and pivot tube once you get them out though. I wouldn't run it again after doing this. Acetylene or MAP gas would work better than a propane torch if you have access to either one.

Not sure about other states, but in Wyoming if you have a notarized bill of sale, run down to your local sheriff dept and have them run the VIN. If it comes up clean they sign a paper stating such. Take those two documents down to the county clerk's office, and they will issue you a new title for the ATV in your name. Just did this for a banshee I got earlier this summer.

I feel sorry for all you guys... Just run methanol and you will never think about engine temps again. haha! We ride in 100+ temps all over the dunes all day and never see temps above 150. If I were going to run a temp gauge I would drill/tap the head and put the probe in the head and mount the gauge up on the bars somewhere easy to see while riding.

Give kevin a call. He will get you set up with what you need. He will go over what type of riding you want to do and what parts you have/will need. Tell him Jared sent you... His number is in my sig.

That's close to the elevation we ride at here in wyoming at KP sand dunes. There will be a noticeable difference in power. You will need to drop around 2 main jet sizes. Keep your pilot and needle where they are for starters and just go down 2 sizes on your main. Maybe just 1 and do a plug chop and see where it puts you. I'd bet on 2 though. Once your are sure the main is good, you might have to drop your needle 1 clip position to lean up the midrange a little. There will be less air at the higher elevation, so you don't need as much fuel to keep your air/fuel ratio correct. What jets are you running now?

An easy fix for this for the future... Weld up one end of the swingarm bolt. Then drill/tap the other end and install a greese zerk fitting. Then slide the swingarm bolt through your new pivot tube, and get the pivot tube centered on the bolt like it would sit if installed on the frame. Drill a couple small holes through the pivot tube AND swingarm bolt around where your needle bearings on the swingarm would sit. (SMALL HOLES, don't get carried away. You don't want to weaken the bolt) Then I always do 1 small hole in the center of the bolt (dont do this hole through the tube) so when the bolt is installed and you pump grease into it, it will go through the bolt, through the tube and grease your beaings, and through the center hole and grease your pivot tube so it doesn't seize up in the future. Easy fix. Takes like 10-15min to do. I've done this on all my bikes for the past 8 or 9 years and haven't had a single problem with any of them seizing up or breaking. - Jared

Thank you JKJK - Jared

Chariot makes a very nice one. Contact RootRacing here on HQ. He can hook you up.

Ahhh, gotcha! Good eye.

There is no need to put loctite on any of those bolts. The spring tension pushing against them will prevent them from moving if you torque things down correctly. I've never put a single bit of loctite on any of those clutch bolts on any of the engines I've ever done. Never had a single one back out. Now, I do put blue loctite on the big nut in the center of the clutch. I've had those try and back off before.

I would do a 4mil stock cylinder ported. Give Kevin Herr at Herr Jugs Racing a call and go over your options with him. He can port your cylinders and get you any of the parts you would need. He has some very fast turnaround as well. Finding a combo between trails and drag racing at the dunes with friends is going to be tough. Trails you're going to want low end power and racing friends at the dunes you're going to want more mid / top end. You can't get both. Split the road and go with a 4mil with a dune port and run some smaller pipes and smaller carbs. Probably be the closest you will get to what you're looking for. You might also look into a serval cylinder. If you want to go with an aftermarket cylinder block that will be the closest you can get to what you're looking for. The stock cylinder with porting will be cheaper route of the two.

Keep in mind that both cylinders spark at the same time....

Go with the billet basket.

So, if this were a stock axle this is what your measurements were? (approx.) Correct?

Thank you!!

Well, I've heard a couple different stories from some other members who have PM'd or emailed you about your ad.... I heard the parts were bought used from NYUK. You don't have any receipts. Then I heard you told someone it was new parts and was built by kevin herr from HJR. Then I heard that you told another member it was built by some local guy. So what is it?? Your refusing to use paypal because of "scammers" you are telling different people different stories... What's the VIN off the frame? How about your engine VIN? Maybe Kevin at HJR remembers building something for you, I'll give him a call & see whats up on that story.

ROFL, I'm pretty sure paypal and ebay would side with him as well, since it clearly states a few times in his auction that its just the empty box. If some dumb fuck is stupid enough to pay $730 for an empty box they deserve to lose their money.

You just lost over 3/4 of your potential buyers. I refuse to do business with people who don't use paypal and don't have confirmed addresses.

Call kevin at HJR and get a good crank. His number is in my signature.

Yeah, i know the TZ's come apart easy, but where that ziptie is, the bearing would still slide right off. The ziptie isn't any bigger than the inner race, so the bearings themselves, the race they ride in, and the outer bearing race could all still slide off.

If you have a cheap place to get oil where you are from, then I would buy it there. You get closer to the dunes where the demand is higher and the price for stuff like that will go up. Make sure you have a flag. If you've never been on sand before, I'd get some sprockets. At least bring 1 size smaller front sprocket than what you run in the dirt. Sand tends to suck a little more power from you. Also make sure you have some jets with you. The elevation is close to sea level, so if you are higher you will definitely want to re-jet before you go tearing off into the dunes. Bring an extra set of plugs just in case you foul a set. Ask around here for some local guys who might be able to hook up with you and show you around or help you out if needed.

You will get the most bang for the buck with the 4mil crank and the porting. Do some research and find out what you need and what you can afford. These damn things get expensive fast. LOL Give kevin at Herr Jugs Racing a call. He can get you squared away with a perfect port job for what you want to do with your setup. He has great customer service and really fast turnaround. He carries all of the parts you would need for your build and will get you setup right the first time. His number is in my signature. If it were me and I had a $1k budget I would do the 4mil crank, porting, cool head, and if you have $ leftover after that then get some of the other goodies. But those 3 things will give you a huge difference over stock. Next would be timing plate and reeds...

If all the normal banshee checkout stuff is good, then I'd say probably $2200-2500. Stock internals and no porting is kinda nice when buying a banshee used. I would pay a little bit more for a stockish banshee with title than I would one with a bunch of mods. You never know the quality of work or maintenance on the modded ones. In either case, I always tear them down, split the cases and check everything out before I ever run them.