BigRed350x

RMATV carries some X-Ring chains for a pretty good price. They will hold up to what most normal banshee rides will dish out to them. If you liked the factory gearing, stick with it. RMATV also sells chain/sprocket kits with new front & rear sprockets and new chain. A lot of site sponsors carry chains as well, often times cheaper than the mainstream market websites list them for.

I believe yamaha originally used them to align the engine in the frame, not to prevent the engine from twisting. Remember when they designed it, they were only making 35ish HP, so they weren't really intending them to be used to prevent any kind of twisting. 35hp wasn't enough to make them twist in the stock frame with the front, rear and lower engine mounts. One in front and one in the rear on opposite sides is how the factory has them.

they have lower port timings than the cubs do and are geared more towards people who ride trails or the dunes. If you are looking for more top end power, the cub cylinder would be the better choice of the two. If you want more mid-range, then the serval would probably be the better way to go. Keep in mind that it all works as a complete package though. Carb size, pipe design, dome shape, etc... Call up a builder and discuss what you want to do with your bike and they can steer you in the right direction. I suggest Kevin at Herr Jugs Racing. Great guy and he can take care of all your needs, no matter which way you decide to go. Give him a call, his number is in my signature. Tell him Jared sent you. - Jared

Fail.

Yes, it should. Unless someone put some funky ass needles in your PJ's before you got them, all the keihin needles use the same clip. 34PJ up to 39PWK I know all use the same needles and clips.

Go with a ported stock cylinder over the cub cylinder setup. In the dunes you would be much happier with the ported stock cylinders. Your builder will be able to match your porting to your riding style and needs a lot better than a cub cylinder. The cubs have drag port timings and more of a light-switch powerband. There are guys who will tell you that a cub cylinder works fine in the dunes, but compared to a bike ported for the dunes they suck. There is also a new cylinder out from CP industries called the Serval. Its not a bad setup from what I've read. Its a mono-block aftermarket cylinder with port timings more geared towards dune riding. I've never personally rode one or set one up, so I won't suggest it to you, but from what I've read they are a pretty nifty setup. I suggest going with Kevin at HJR. His number is in my signature. Whatever route you choose, he can take care of your needs. Tell him Jared sent you.

Do you guys have any dyno sheets comparing your in-frame sniper to an in-frame shearer, both on the exact same engine setup?

If you're talking about trying to use the clip off a stock mikuni needle on your PJ carb needle... No, it won't fit. The stock needles are a lot smaller than the PJ / PWK needles and it wouldn't work. You'd end up bending the crap out of it to get it onto the keihin needle, and I wouldn't trust it to hold the needle in position. It would probably break and drop your needle into the dump tube and plug you up and cause a bad lean meltdown.

Drugs are bad... mmmkay? How about you give a list of everything that's done to the bike, and how much you paid for it to prove to all of us its worth what you're asking. Do you even know what's done to it? Can you even prove its yours? How about you go snap a picture of you sitting on it holding a dictionary so we can believe its really yours.

Yeah, for a quadzilla carb I swapped to methanol for a buddy. Just looking for one.

Thanks for looking kiel! - Jared

Hey brandon! Long time no see! This is going to be the spare/screw around bike. It will venture down to St. Anthony elevation every now and then, and might go to Grand Junction, CO from time to time. I know I could probably do a 20 or a 19, but just don't want to have to mess with it if it ever makes it down lower. Just want a good spare bike that I never have to worry about messing with, and I can jack the timing up a little more the 21's. =) I'd trade you the 18's for your 21's if you want. Let me know, I can ship them out to ya this wknd. Thanks - Jared Oh yeah... these are for small bore. Going on a 65.5mm bore top end.

Some more information about why its so wonderful. Methanol has a high toxicity in humans. If ingested, as little as 10 mL can cause permanent blindness by destruction of the optic nerve and 30 mL is potentially fatal,[9] although a fatal dose is typically 100–125 mL (4 fl oz). Toxic effects take hours to start and effective antidotes can often prevent permanent damage.[9] Because of its similarities to ethanol (the alcohol in beverages), it is difficult to differentiate between the two (such is the case with denatured alcohol). Methanol is toxic by two mechanisms. Firstly, methanol (whether it enters the body by ingestion, inhalation, or absorption through the skin) can be fatal due to its CNS depressant properties in the same manner as ethanol poisoning. Secondly, in a process of toxication, it is metabolised to formic acid (which is present as the formate ion) via formaldehyde in a process initiated by the enzyme alcohol dehydrogenase in the liver.[10] The reaction to formate proceeds completely, with no detectable formaldehyde remaining.[11] Formate is toxic because it inhibits mitochondrial cytochrome c oxidase, causing the symptoms of hypoxia at the cellular level, and also causing metabolic acidosis among a variety of other metabolic disturbances.[12] Fetal tissue will not tolerate methanol. If any of this didn't scare you away, then run it. Its great stuff. If it did scare you away, then go with the override. Easy choice.

From Wiki-know-it-all... One of the potential drawbacks of using high concentrations of methanol (and other alcohols like ethanol) in fuel is its corrosivity to some metals, particularly aluminium. Methanol, although a weak acid, attacks the oxide coating that normally protects the aluminium from corrosion: 6 CH3OH + Al2O3 → 2 Al(OCH3)3 + 3 H2O Hence the whole purging process...

Methyl Alcohol. Methanol. Alky. All the same stuff. The chemical reaction when it burns is in my signature.

Go with methanol. You will wonder why you ever ran gas.... One of the first mods I do on any bike I have is swap over to methanol.

By my calculations its best to do it when there is a full eclipse.

I will hone your cylinders with my impact gun!

Your clymer manual has a wiring diagram in the back for each of the different years. Get yourself an ohm meter and check out what the old light switch did with which wires and just duplicate the action. You will probably need a double pole double throw switch to accomplish what you want to do.

Sounds like someone else needs an electric impact.

LOL

This is one of the few guys I would get parts from without any pics. Root has some awesome parts and they always come in great condition. No worries here.

How much for just one of the smaller ones?

never heard of them.