BigRed350x

You will need a flywheel puller to get the flywheel off to swap out the timing plate. Its not a hard job, just take your time and make sure you get the flywheel torqued back up good when you put it back on. I always put a little spot of blue loctite on the threads that hold the flywheel nut on when I re-install them. Also, watch the three little bolts that hold your stator to the timing plate. Those can get tough to get out sometimes and tend to strip easily, so watch that. Same with the pickup coil on the timing plate. Yes, its worth it. +4 is a good place to start with on the timing advance. You will notice gains right away after the timing advance. The impeller isn't hard either. Make sure you get a new clutch cover gasket and water pump gasket for when you install the new impeller you got. If you have any questions just jump on here and ask them, someone will chime in and help you out. But both install's are pretty easy in the realm of banshee parts.

So now you have two threads going about the same thing?

I run the offset front rims in the dunes and love them! I don't have any of the issues these guys are talking about. i run +2+1 arms and offset front rims, and an anti-vibe stem. love it!

The 8" will provide more side-wall flex and maintain traction better. They will also "grow" with higher wheel speeds, similar to what the tires on a top fuel drag car do. You will get an inch or two added rollout on the big end with the smaller rim, since there is more sidewall for the tire to flex with. The 8" rims are also lighter.

ATF type F gets my vote as well. Its cheap and works well. I change it out every other ride.

What's wrong with this picture...? Guy is modding his front suspension himself, and is asking if extending them like that will throw off is geometry. I really hope you don't let anyone besides yourself get on that bike. That's just scary.

Its very rare that the CDI boxes go bad. Usually a coil or stator is the bad culprit before a CDI box. Check your ohms on the stator and compare to your clymer manual. After that try and install new plug caps and double check all your grounds. There's one back by the CDI, one down by your stator, and the coil itself is grounded to the frame and has a + and - lead on it. Check the orange wire goes to + and black goes to - It is possible that your stator is getting worn out and isn't providing enough energy to the CDI and coil to make a good spark. You sure you have good gas? Reeds all good, no cracked reeds or one hanging open? What's your jetting and elevation/temps? You sure your flywheel hasn't slipped on the taper and your timing isn't messed up? When the piston is close to TDC one of the magnets on your flywheel should be passing the pickup coil, or at least close to it, depending on how much timing advance or retard you have. Just for shits n giggles, give it a quick short shot of ether through your carbs while you hold the throttle open. Then kick it and see if it pops. If it does, then you might have bad gas or incorrect jetting. If it doesn't you might have timing or spark issues. If you're running stock carbs, are you sure they are synced up? Have the choke tube installed? Let us know what your jetting is and we can help diagnose the problem a little better. We need more details than what your compression is and that it won't start.

Cool Head and Flywheel still available! Bump!

My first suggestion would be to call around and find the best price for the parts. Check with different sponsors and make sure you're getting the best deal you can since you're spending a lot of money. Next... I'd go with a longer swingarm than a +2. Look into a +4 or +6. Make sure you get the right domes for your setup. Do you have a pingel? If not, get one. How about a billet basket?

Save money and risk putting more money in it down the road, or just get the problem fixed before it gets any worse. Give kevin at herr jugs a call and talk to him about it. He can get you set up with the 421 kit and any work your crank might need.

oops, double post.

I like the shaw look-alike strut. Nice work.

Part it out!

AXLE SOLD! GAS CAP SOLD!

Ditch the DM and go with a big block twister. Power Valves, reverse cooling block, higher coolant capacity, and their off-the-shelf porting is more copacetic to duning than the DM's. JMO though.

Just pack your cylinders up and send them out to Kevin at Herr Jugs Racing. He's got some of the fastest turnaround time out of all the builders out there. Top notch work and his stuff runs hard. His number is in my signature. Great guy to deal with!

I've got some mikuni 34's with billet bowls and set up for alcohol I'd sell you. Go Big!

+2+1 A-Arms, +2 swingarm, and a +4 axle. Might as well swap over to a roundhouse carrier on the swingarm if you go to an extended one. You will be much happier in the end.

Check the two sides and compare. If both sides are equal and its only a couple thousandths on each side you are fine. If its too much, or the two sides vary, its time to have the crank rebuilt. Give Kevin Herr a call. His number is in my signature. He can tell you how much play is too much, and can also rebuild the crank if needed. If you do need it rebuilt, I'd get it welded up at the same time.

PM'd ya back... I can do that deal for you. Sent you my paypal address.

Forgot to say... Or Best Offer!

ROFL!!!

Billet gas cap $35 shipped +4 axle $90 shipped (made by 4play) Stock flywheel $50 shipped Pro Design Cool Head $150 shipped All the parts are used, but in good shape and have been cleaned up and wiped down with carb cleaner. I'm trying to get a friend to go to my place and get some pics for me. I'm working out of town, so I can't get pics until I get home or get someone to stop by and take some for me. I've got good feedback and if you're not happy with anything you buy from me I'll make it right. Here's an old pic I have of the axle.