BigRed350x

The nut that is on the axle is the one you need to use. Looks like an eliminator style axle. Losen the lock screw on the nut, loosen the nut, then inside the nut you will see a snap ring. Remove the snap ring and the nut slides off the axle. The nut tightens against the snap ring to hold stuff on.

Awesome running banshee here guys! Hate to see it go kiel. Congrats on the kid!

Who did the porting?

You just have to ride with your front tires off the ground. haha!

Yes, unless you have a specialty shipping license you will need to empty the bottle before shipping.

Your going to have to come down in price if you ever want to move this thing... Bump for ya though.

The compression will depend on your elevation and porting a lot. Your probably going to be in the 155-165 range. I'd run a mix of race gas and pump gas. Without any porting, if you are totally dialed in perfect you'd probably be in the high 50's low 60's hp If using yamalube I would mix at what they recommend. I would ditch that oil and go with a better oil like klotz or castor927. Jetting depends on your elevation. Make a post in the jetting forum for answers on jetting. More horsepower... PORTING! Call Kevin Herr, his number is in my signature. He can get you hooked up!

Try a straight paddle that matches your setup and you will wonder why you ever ran a v-blade.

this thread scares me.

+4 would work good for you. The longer swingarm will reduce your traction, so your paddles will spin more easily. I run a +6 on my black bike and run 14x41 gearing with 21" 9-paddles at KP which has pretty dry fluffy sand. When I go to walden, which has wet hard sand I run 14x44 gearing with the same paddles.

I'd wait and see if your home-made A-Arms hold up before you start looking for paddles. You might need the money to buy some good aftermarket A-Arms. Look for a 21" 8-Paddle. You would be a lot happier with the 21"

bump!

Sent ya a PM...

Smallblock twister! Sweet! And Holy Jesus Monster Pipe! Love it.

Wow, your clip must have been really worn out, or not installed correctly. Those little clips are a tight fit on the rods. There is also a locking washer type deal behind the shift shaft adjustment bolt on the clutch side that should also block the shift fork rod from moving. Sometimes the plugs just come out without anything being wrong internally. I've seen a couple of them fall out. When I do a brand new build and have the cases split and the transmission out, I will tap threads into the hole and put a threaded plug in there, so I don't have to worry about the little plugs ever coming out.

Try a 21x12x8 8 paddle and I bet you will like it a lot more than the 20" Just adjust your gearing for the little big taller paddle.

That's a weird one... I'd take the carbs apart and clean them real good. While you have the carbs off, check your intakes and reeds. Make sure you don't have any little cracks in your intakes, and check that your reeds are closing all the way and aren't cracked. Also change your oil and coolant and make sure you have fresh fluids in there. You might also put a LITTLE bit of 2-stroke oil on your slides in your carbs and make sure they are opening nice and smooth. You might also do a leakdown test and make sure all your seals and gaskets are good.

To be honest, there's no set limit that it will happen. It goes to the life of the crank... how well it was taken care of, how hard its been ridden in the past, if the two cylinders were running equally throughout the cranks life, etc. There's a lot that goes into it. Generally I would say that once you go above the 155 mark, which is where normal pump gas will start to detonate, I would suggest getting it trued and welded before going higher. Timing advance also comes into the mix. The more advance you have combined with compression could lead to a shorter crank life. But just like the guy above said, even a stock crank on a stock setup can come apart. I get them trued and welded anytime I go higher than 155psi static compression and +4 timing. With your 160 if you're running timing advance with it too, I would suggest getting it trued and welded. That's JMO though. Everyone will give you different opinions on this one. I run 185lbs compression and a dyna with a custom curve that hits 14 degrees of timing on my big block twister, and 90lbs compression with a stock head and 4 deg timing on my little stock stroke and its got a trued and welded crank. Its just a good idea to get it done whichever way you go, if you can afford it, and can afford the down-time of tearing the engine down and getting the crank welded up.

Pictures will go a long ways... a CLEAN bike with the parts you listed could go as high as $3500 in this market, but a not-so-clean bike would go for around $2500. Plain and simple, you won't get what you have invested into it. The only way you will get close to what you have in the bike will be to part it out. Full bikes are a tough sale these days.

Bump! I'll throw an O-Ring kit in with the cool head! Stock Flywheel $50 SHIPPED! No rust, clean taper! Cool Head $150 SHIPPED!

Guys this is a great price on this piece! I have one on my 10mil Big Block Twister. Great Piece! Stop trying to lowball the guy and just buy one! You will love it. I'm going to get one for my Small Block Twister as well.

Jump on cascadeinnovations.net and go to the Genuine yamaha banshee parts section. Its an aluminum plug that helps hold the shift fork rail in place. Easy fix. Tip the bike on its side so the fluid stops leaking into the hole, spray it out with carb cleaner and dry it out and clean it real good, take the new plug and tap it into the hole. Problem solved. Don't pack the hole full of RTV, that's just silly. The OEM plugs that fit in there are only a few bucks, and are made to fit and seal that little hole. The part you are looking for is in the following: www.cascadeinnovations.net > Genuine Yamaha Banshee Parts > Case Plugs > Engine Case Straight Plug - 84C Part No. 90334-10006 $2.75 a piece. http://67.199.65.66/cascade_innovations/newlook/store/store_View.cfm?STORE_AREA_ID=29&store_dept_id=357 Kevin at Herr Jugs racing can also get the part for you. Give him a call if you'd like. His number is in my sig.

If you're going to be welding the puller to the flywheel, give it a shot with just threading it in first and tighten it down real good with a crescent wrench before hitting it with the impact. I've had some with what looked like stripped threads before , but there was still enough there to let the puller hold onto it enough to get it off. If it doesn't work, then do like NYUK said and weld the puller to the flywheel and take it off that way. Make sure when you are done and get it off to check your ohms on your stator. I've seen it get hot enough behind the flywheel to melt the stator side seal and melt some of the epoxy off the stator windings and mess it up. So I'd do a leakdown test and check your stator before you re-install the new flywheel you're going to need. I also agree, get an OEM flywheel. the aftermarket ones are junk and use weaker magnets in them and the taper for the crank is usually incorrect in the aftermarket ones. - Jared

You're talking about a setup like I have on my bike. Check out my sig and you will see my tank.

I think the Raptor 660 and the late model banshee's share the same pattern, but the YFZ450 and Raptor 700 are different. Not totally sure though.