BigRed350x

Try a different set of cases and compare measurements to the cases from the pics.

I agree with Brandon. Go with the 4mil if you can afford it. You will regret not doing it if you don't.

measurements on mains, pilots, dumps and what needles they will come with please. Thanks - Jared

My 611cc big block twister says kawasuckass stickers on a yamaha is a massive fail.

I never polish any of my crap. Its polished the one time I buy it new, after that I ride the bike and let the sand do its thing. Chrome won't get you home. lol

A few ideas... get some stinger heat shield wrap thingy's from cascadeinnovations. get some header heat wrap from your local auto parts store and wrap the pipes. get some different pipes that fit better around aftermarket parts (like shearer in-frames)

You can add a dab of RTV around the threads of the studs when you install your head nuts. Leaking around the studs is a common problem with the noss heads. No big deal, just pull the head nuts, put a little dab of RTV on the threads and re-torque the nuts. Should take care of the problem. Let it dry real good before you fire it up and test it out. Also, make sure the threads are clean before you put the RTV on there. I prefer the red hi-temp gas/oil resistant stuff. - Jared

Actually the majority of the manufacturing for these bikes takes place right here in the USA. I believe their plant is in the midwest somewhere.

I've never heard of a single person who's running duncan porting in the 8 or so years I've been around HQ.

I'm confused as to what your problem is. Use some proper punctuation and people might understand your problem better and be able to offer better help for you. Is your head leaking or what?

Only way you're really going to tell for sure is to pop the clutch cover off and take a look at your clutch and check the adjustments. You could also check out your kick-starter gear and see what's going on there while you have the cover off.

Any of your local hardware shops will have a nut and bolt section that should have something that will fit. I get stuff like that from ACE hardware or TrueValue.

Get a hold of a site sponsor. They will take care of you and give you a heck of a lot better customer service than any of those big companys will.

Call up kevin at Herr Jugs Racing and he will take care of you. Sounds like you just need a top end rebuild, which would be a bore, hone, new piston kit, and gaskets & o-rings if you have a cool head. Its not a tough job to do at all, and you will be up and running good as new. Kevin can take care of everything you need, does top notch work, and has a much faster turnaround than most other places you will talk to. - Jared

Check your jetting with the smaller main jets. The big power increase could come from a lean condition. It will pull nice and hard right up to the point it blows up. lol Give Kevin at Herr Jugs Racing a call and get your cylinders ported. Buy a cool head, reeds, intakes and some good carbs and change out to a better flowing pipe like CPI's or Shearer's. Kevin can hook you up with any of this stuff. - Jared

The Unstamped ones are more desirable. The older ones were not stamped, and the new new ones are also not stamped.

I'd like to see a comparison between the R2's and a set of CPI's with identical engine setups for each. The CPI's are proven for dune riding time and time again.

Try and run your stock carbs first and see how they do. I'd go with a 28 or 30 on a stock stroke and wouldn't go any bigger until you step up to a 4mil.

Just chuck the stuff up and mill off the logo.

With billet bowls on a 10mil you don't need the pump. One less part to fail and worry about. Also one less place for a possible air leak (vacuum port on cylinders for pump signal line). I wouldn't run a pump until you get into a huge motor that guzzled fuel. If you have a pingle and billet bowls it will be adequate for most 10mil setups. I ran a pingle and billet bowls on 38mm mikuni's on meth on a 10mil 612cc big block twister and do some pretty long runs (up the face of sand mountain, UT) without any problems.

So how did the small block twister turn out for you? I love the twister products. Next time just go with the big block... The small blocks are nice too though. =)

Bump! Nice fuzzy seat.

39 pwk gravity fed carbs with billet bowls get my vote.

I love how its made. i watch that show all the time.

I believe jeff mods the shift shaft itself. He mills out the part where the shift shaft contacts the adjustment bolt when you have the shifter all the way down or all the way up. You can do the mod with a dremel, just don't get too carried away. You can use the FAST shift shaft mod with the roller bearing mod from cascade and the shift star mod all together and it makes for a pretty smooth shift. edit: one suggestion I would give if you use the cascade roller bearing is to use the factory spring instead of the cascade spring. If you have the shift star mod and the cascade spring it can jump gears due to the light tension of the cascade spring.